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[cem_devecioglu]

today  I have tested the 3M  trizact 3000 and 6000 grid sanding pads with a da sander on scratch resistent clear coat.. and then farecla G3 and later finer products with rotary and lastly da polishing..  it was exactly mirror like not even a single minor scratch exactly a mirror shine.. I'm  really impressed..  dark car owners , this product is for you..

here is the product
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lik0IBXCdQI


ps: dont  use the 1500 grid sanding at the beginning of demo..  thats for a newly painted car..

pps: a da sander is better suited for the job.. low rpm and lots of water is the key..

[danzigfan]

Nice effect. Could you share some link for diy door respray maybe? I have 4 laying in the garage needing a bit of rust repair and a respray. I need to cut the costs and try to make it as good as it can be.

[cem_devecioglu]

Nice effect. Could you share some link for diy door respray maybe? I have 4 laying in the garage needing a bit of rust repair and a respray. I need to cut the costs and try to make it as good as it can be.

I can.. but before everything what color is your car ? and what equipment you have ?

some colors fade more than others and you first need to prepare the final color on the car which is somewhat faded to an extent so not the door pillar given code number.. its only a starting point and you may need to blend in with some other parts which is not a newbie job

you have the clean the paint on the doors until bare metal.. either by sanding or use a strong solvent (be careful this solvent is a headache in the corners) but all rust must be removed.. than doors must be primed..sanded again than painting process begins..

if you ask my opinion visit a paint shop let them prepare  the code at the pillar and you spray it on a test card and laquer it so that you can compare it with the original color on the car (under sun strictly) then they can make some adjustments on the color tone..


here is a door painting + blending job
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ff1POzGgu3o

[cem_devecioglu]

for primary coating on bare metal, use 3-4 coats at first .. let dry for several days than sand with 320-400 wet and spray another 3-4..and this time sand with 800 wet.. let dry for 1-2 days for all the moisture to evaporate..

if you will paint in your garage wet the floor so no dust flies on the paint..wait 10 minutes between every layers , use either fast or slow reducer depending o the outside temperature.. for cold months and outside painting fast reducer is a must..

I generally spray 3-4 layers of base coat (than sand with 1200 wet) and do the autual painting (color  +clear coat) another day..  it divides the job , helps to smooth the surface, you can sand the dust/imperfections off  so later you can spray less layers (minimal risk of flow) and focus more on clear coat..

[cem_devecioglu]

this is shortest route for paint repairs but,  using bondo is risky , they can fracture easily if incorrectly applied..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4uUr9XlKRo

and metallic paint can not be applied like that

ps: try painting some test panels before actual job..  use constant speed,  overcoat corners , %50 overlap on spray lines.. apply cleat coat a bit thicker (7-8 layers) so can sand the dust off easily.. but remember you must wait 10 to 15 minutes between every coat.. also you can divide the  clear coat job into 2 .. 4 layers at a time..

[danzigfan]

I'm familiar with painting teak  +20 times per piece, this will take me a few weeks I can see it now....Bookmarked this page for later use.
It's +5 deg outside here, so it'll have to wait for a while I guess and it's better to use old doors trough this winter months due to salt, Thanks Cem

[cem_devecioglu]

I'm familiar with painting teak  +20 times per piece, this will take me a few weeks I can see it now....Bookmarked this page for later use.
It's +5 deg outside here, so it'll have to wait for a while I guess and it's better to use old doors trough this winter months due to salt, Thanks Cem

I hope this info helped 

[omega3000]

Excellent , anything is better than blistering hands 

[Webby the Bear]

3M do excellent silicone paste for slide pins also 

[cem_devecioglu]

Excellent , anything is better than blistering hands 

definitely..

[cem_devecioglu]

3M do excellent silicone paste for slide pins also 

yep.. they have a wide range of products .. but problem is you cant find them in all shops.. most prefer cheap poducts

[Olympia5776]

Good info . Keep these tips coming Cem , I'll be painting the lower half of my BMW E24 next spring  in my own garage and am compiling a file of tips on painting and finishing.

[cem_devecioglu]

Good info . Keep these tips coming Cem , I'll be painting the lower half of my BMW E24 next spring  in my own garage and am compiling a file of tips on painting and finishing.

ok .. here are some more tips..

if you are going to paint in your garage, you will need those items

* minimum 200 litre dual head compressor -painting a car with a 50 litre capacity is a torture! you will quickly loose the pressure  and cant complete even a line or a part without loosing the pressure.. when you loose the pressure spray pattern will be disturbed/changed , then you will get closer to the surface which will cause over runs in a second..

keeping the air compressor filters and environment very clean is critical.. or else forget the finish quality.. once the dust enters the compressor /lines you are in big trouble.. change compressor oil periodically but never overfill or spill around.. when unused  cover them completely to protect from dust.. never let any polish/paste or oil or evaportaing chemicals around a compressor .. when this mixes with the air compressed your paint job will be ruined.. take the water from compressor frequently..  also when you finish using the compressor de-pressurize all air from it so less water will be accumulated inside..from time to time you need to clean inside with cleaning thinners (because the exhaust gases and oil particles in air accumulates inside) but be very careful and let it dry for few days (valves left open)..


*air pressure gauge/adjuster -  these are a must .. you must correctly setup the air pressure according to the spray gun factory recommendation..
some expensive spray guns like satajet have built in.. 

* spray guns: ideal is having minimum 2.. industry standard is 1.3 micron .. I recommend having 1.0 micron.. must be gravity feed type..  problem is good quality hvlp or rp models seriously expensive.. costs more than a car I use several spray guns for different jobs.. for primary coat 1.3 is better suited to the job, some use 1.7 or 2.0 microns ..   You can also use 0.8 micron but painting times will get a bit longer and you have to fill many times unless you buy a bigger cup..  Also 0.8 micron spray guns spend less paint per area  and their finish is better but with some time cost..
You have to use those guns for some time in order to get used to their spray pattern and paint amount adjusting.. never paint a car with a newly bought gun you didnt used before.. also before painting always spray some paint on a test panel in order to control/adjust oval shape..

you have to clean those spray guns deeply because just spraying solvent doesnt clean them properly.. you have to take the needle out carefully and  clean it..  also the nozzles in edges must be kept in solvent for some time.. 

* paint mask : this is the most critical item for your health..  3m is the recommended one..  take it serious.. use it or be poisoned..

* water holder: this is also a must ..

[cem_devecioglu]

* using correct reducer type/amount: never pour reducer on a mixture without measurement tools..   also always check painting evnironment temperature..  this will help you to choose type of reducer..   using excess reducer can cause paint flow , or incorrect reducer for temp can cause paint to dry before it hits the surface!

* also hardeners must be always used at the correct ratio..  never trust your eyes alone

* using a painting suit will prevent you from many headaches such as hair on painted surface ..

[cem_devecioglu]

Good info . Keep these tips coming Cem , I'll be painting the lower half of my BMW E24 next spring  in my own garage and am compiling a file of tips on painting and finishing.

ok .. here are some more tips..

if you are going to paint in your garage, you will need those items

* minimum 200 litre dual head compressor -painting a car with a 50 litre capacity is a torture! you will quickly loose the pressure  and cant complete even a line or a part without loosing the pressure.. when you loose the pressure spray pattern will be disturbed/changed , then you will get closer to the surface which will cause over runs in a second..

keeping the air compressor filters and environment very clean is critical.. or else forget the finish quality.. once the dust enters the compressor /lines you are in big trouble.. change compressor oil periodically but never overfill or spill around.. when unused  cover them completely to protect from dust.. never let any polish/paste or oil or evaportaing chemicals around a compressor .. when this mixes with the air compressed your paint job will be ruined.. take the water from compressor frequently..  also when you finish using the compressor de-pressurize all air from it so less water will be accumulated inside..from time to time you need to clean inside with cleaning thinners (because the exhaust gases and oil particles in air accumulates inside) but be very careful and let it dry for few days (valves left open)..


*air pressure gauge/adjuster -  these are a must .. you must correctly setup the air pressure according to the spray gun factory recommendation..
some expensive spray guns like satajet have built in.. 
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_1007_painting_with_waterborne_paint/photo_07.html


* spray guns: ideal is having minimum 2.. industry standard is 1.3 micron .. I recommend having 1.0 micron.. must be gravity feed type..  problem is good quality hvlp or rp models seriously expensive.. costs more than a car I use several spray guns for different jobs.. for primary coat 1.3 is better suited to the job, some use 1.7 or 2.0 microns ..   You can also use 0.8 micron but painting times will get a bit longer and you have to fill many times unless you buy a bigger cup..  Also 0.8 micron spray guns spend less paint per area  and their finish is better but with some time cost..
You have to use those guns for some time in order to get used to their spray pattern and paint amount adjusting.. never paint a car with a newly bought gun you didnt used before.. also before painting always spray some paint on a test panel in order to control/adjust oval shape..

you have to clean those spray guns deeply because just spraying solvent doesnt clean them properly.. you have to take the needle out carefully and  clean it..  also the nozzles in edges must be kept in solvent for some time.. 

* paint mask : this is the most critical item for your health..  3m is the recommended one..  take it serious.. use it or be poisoned..

* water holder: this is also a must ..

edit : pressure gauge link added

ps: if you are going to use water based paint , proper spray gun must be selected accordingly.. new type satajets can paint both types..