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[omega3000]

I dumped a good 3.0 bottom end earlier this year because no - one wanted it. 
How many miles has your engine done ? If you keep on top of servicing the internals should normally be good for 200,000 + so I wouldn't worry about rebuilding the bottom end, unless you just want to do it for a project / experience.

 

[Webby the Bear]

Yeah kinda wanted to do it for the experience and also the factor having a pristine engine under the hood

So say I get my block, i'm thinking I should strip it all down, take measurements of everything and renew whatever is borderline on the specs?

[albitz]

Big end and main bearing shells, balance and a bit of lightening of the con rods,similar for the crank & pistons, recon oil pump - depends how far you want to go really.If you build it carefully and have it all balanced etc. you should have noticeable gains id performance, smooth running etc. 

[Webby the Bear]

Big end and main bearing shells, balance and a bit of lightening of the con rods,similar for the crank & pistons, recon oil pump - depends how far you want to go really.If you build it carefully and have it all balanced etc. you should have noticeable gains id performance, smooth running etc. 

lightening of the con rods? as in replace them for lighter ones? 

[albitz]

No, depending on the design you can remove metal from certain areas to make them lighter,but you would need to take advice from a V6 expert such as Markdtm before attempting something like that. Done wrong it would result in a broken rod at max rpm.
It used to be a very worthwhile thing to do years ago,but modern production methods may mean its not so worthwhile now. Im not sure tbh mate.

[Webby the Bear]

No, depending on the design you can remove metal from certain areas to make them lighter,but you would need to take advice from a V6 expert such as Markdtm before attempting something like that. Done wrong it would result in a broken rod at max rpm.
It used to be a very worthwhile thing to do years ago,but modern production methods may mean its not so worthwhile now. Im not sure tbh mate.

OK thanks albs.

to be honest it was just a case of really wanting new in there. whats forging? I heard it mentioned by some 2-post moron in the gen help who went off on one at everybody 

[The Red Baron]

No, depending on the design you can remove metal from certain areas to make them lighter,but you would need to take advice from a V6 expert such as Markdtm before attempting something like that. Done wrong it would result in a broken rod at max rpm.
It used to be a very worthwhile thing to do years ago,but modern production methods may mean its not so worthwhile now. Im not sure tbh mate.

OK thanks albs.

to be honest it was just a case of really wanting new in there. whats forging? I heard it mentioned by some 2-post moron in the gen help who went off on one at everybody 

lmao, i remember that.

[Webby the Bear]

No, depending on the design you can remove metal from certain areas to make them lighter,but you would need to take advice from a V6 expert such as Markdtm before attempting something like that. Done wrong it would result in a broken rod at max rpm.
It used to be a very worthwhile thing to do years ago,but modern production methods may mean its not so worthwhile now. Im not sure tbh mate.

OK thanks albs.

to be honest it was just a case of really wanting new in there. whats forging? I heard it mentioned by some 2-post moron in the gen help who went off on one at everybody 

lmao, i remember that.

haha his second post was something like ''you clearly don't know what youre talking about'' hahahah idiot!

[albitz]

Istr 3.2 has a forged steel crank ? If so,you might be able to fit one of those, if it fits ? 

[Webby the Bear]

Istr 3.2 has a forged steel crank ? If so,you might be able to fit one of those, if it fits ? 

presumably the ''forging'' aspect equates to extra strength? 

[TheBoy]

As Kevin Wood eludes to, the engine should outlast the bodywork, unless something catastrophic happens. The Bullet claims 212k, I bought it at 88k, so (a very conservative ) 124k in my ownership, and I do like to let those horses free....

[cem_devecioglu]

best way to ensure your omega lasts forever is to renew the paint..


strip down the whole paint (deffo not with solvents) with sanding.. prime the body with epoxy (also underneath the car)..  (use a filter mask)


and apply several times the best scratch resistent laquer in the market


and pray for no one crashes you

[cem_devecioglu]

engine components can be bought cheaply anytime but bodywork jobs are always costly and requires long time..

[Dan282]

As it looks like I'm going to be keeping my mig it's having some special treatment over the next few weeks.

The bodywork is sound so I'll be doing some mechanical jobs ready for the winter and future years. Gulp!!

[ted_one]

Agree with both aspects of the posts,but at the moment I'm on a mission to save the bodywork, as all mechanicals have been given a good seeing too, and as all three cars at the moment are averaging 1500 miles a year I've decided to take that option.I found a supplier who at the moment is stocking panels for the Omega that are being sourced from Denmark and I've nicked all his stock of wheel arches as the work is starting in a weeks time on the first car and the the other two straight after the Christmas break, and hopefully come the warmer weather I get the crappy job of doing the underbodies with Dynax...it gets every where,including you ::)but it's good stuff ...expensive but better than Waxoyl etc as it kills surface rust and then protects the metal thereafter