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[Big_Al]

hi guys
              right this Neffin' omega is getting right up my nose now 

This is a new thread carrying on from what was breakdown diagnosis

Oofers general opinion was crank sensor  as was getting 0335  sometimes after  car was cutting out.

Car cut out last week outside house so ordred new genuine bosch CS.

Yesterday wanted to get car up on ramps & it started 1st time but then cut out before I could get it on the ramps 

Started raining really heavy so left it until this morning

This morning it would not start so just jacked up N/S  replaced C/S & rerouted cable as shown 


Would not start with the new CS fitted 

Ok so thought I would do pedal trick but this would not work  . . . TC light was staying on which normally goes off on a pedal  trick

code read  &  the spanner light would not flash at all just lit up all the time  .

Tried several times but no good 

I  was thinking that  maybe it is an ECU problem like Toledodude Paul had last year ,as TC light came on before a recent breakdown .
 
So opened up ECU box & checked all connectors .They seemed all ok but released & re fitted to make sure .

Tried starting  . . . .Hey presto  . . .Magic   on the button   it starts .    Have started it 20 times now & gone for a short drive

All OK.      Pedal trick will now work  showing 2 codes ,will have to re check the first one  but second is 0335

Will now clear codes  & see what happens .

Would you think it seems logical that a dodgy ECU connection will cause this problem I have had  and not the CS after all .

CS was previously changed 35k ago



Any thoughts & advice  on this  . . before the car gets chucked 

[Chris_H]

The sensor just originates the pulses.  They've still got to get to the ECU.

CS is such a common problem with these (mine was temperature sensitive) that everyone immediately points there.  There's no reason why you shouldn't be the first to have a connection problem elsewhere.  The error-detection will not be able to tell the difference - just that pulses are missing.

Only time (and your patience if you have any left) will prove your point.

[Big_Al]

The sensor just originates the pulses.  They've still got to get to the ECU.

CS is such a common problem with these (mine was temperature sensitive) that everyone immediately points there.  There's no reason why you shouldn't be the first to have a connection problem elsewhere.  The error-detection will not be able to tell the difference - just that pulses are missing.

Only time (and your patience if you have any left) will prove your point.

Have been out & reconnected the old crank sensor . . ..  car starts first time . . . tried for several starts  . . all good

replaced again with new one  & all still good  . . car starts A1

Cleared codes this morning after getting car running with new sensor fitted . Pedal trick is now working & no codes showing

Only time will tell if it was a loose ECU connection i suppose.  The fact that the pedal trick only won't work when the car will

not start, points to the ECU I would say . As soon as car is running & starting ok ,pedal trick will work 

Has anyone ever had the "pedal trick" fail to work & not give the code flashes with the spanner light, like this did when car does not

want to start . Just to confirm  what has been occuring , car just cuts out & will then turn over as normal but will not fire . leave

for a while usually 30 mins or more & it will start.

Very frustrating this problem. . . . . . been looking at Volkwagen Phaetons  . . as getting fed up with this now

[AndyStobbs]

Is your car new enough to give freeze frame data? If you looked at it with a scan tool there maybe more useful info to be had.

[Big_Al]

Is your car new enough to give freeze frame data? If you looked at it with a scan tool there maybe more useful info to be had.

'51 plate   2.6  MV6 . . . .but clueless with all that stuff . . . .   I'm 57 for gods sake  . . PC   IT    hopeless  at it 

Can put fuel in & change oil  though       

[AndyStobbs]

It will be then. When a fault code is set a snap shot of parameters at that point is taken. It includes rpm at that point. If you're getting crank sensor faults logged the rpm at which the fault occured may help you out.

[dbug]

As requested you have pm Al

[chrisgixer]

Only time I've had the pedal trick fail is when I left the drive by wire plug off the throttle body on the plenum, Dbw needs to function to see the accelerator pedal position obviously.

Ecu needs to see the cs signal. Cs is most common failure so you have no choice but to start there. Any pins corroded on the loom plug or ecu pins?

Fingers crossed you've sorted it anyway.

[Big_Al]

It will be then. When a fault code is set a snap shot of parameters at that point is taken. It includes rpm at that point. If you're getting crank sensor faults logged the rpm at which the fault occured may help you out.

Ok thanks   . . . but will have to leave that to someone who understands how to do it  etc.

[Big_Al]

Only time I've had the pedal trick fail is when I left the drive by wire plug off the throttle body on the plenum, Dbw needs to function to see the accelerator pedal position obviously.

Ecu needs to see the cs signal. Cs is most common failure so you have no choice but to start there. Any pins corroded on the loom plug or ecu pins?

Fingers crossed you've sorted it anyway.

Car is running fine  again at the moment , new CS is fitted, although test run with old one re installed, was good, but will check all ECU pins &  all loom connections .

It is looking like an "intermittant"  wiring connection breakdown now though

[Big_Al]

Only time I've had the pedal trick fail is when I left the drive by wire plug off the throttle body on the plenum, Dbw needs to function to see the accelerator pedal position obviously.

Ecu needs to see the cs signal. Cs is most common failure so you have no choice but to start there. Any pins corroded on the loom plug or ecu pins?

Fingers crossed you've sorted it anyway.

Car is running fine  again at the moment , new CS is fitted, although test run with old one re installed, was good, but will check all ECU pins &  all loom connections .

It is looking like an "intermittant"  wiring connection breakdown now though

40 mile trip today   & all  running luvverly. . .  .used electrical cleaner spray on engine ECU pins & main loom connections under

battery before I went  . . . . never missed a beat & no "spooky"  radio turning itself on etc.   All good so fingers crossed 

[Toledodude1973]

Maybe some water got somewhere nasty giving you problems, there has been a lot about Al

[Big_Al]

Maybe some water got somewhere nasty giving you problems, there has been a lot about Al

quite possible Paul . . . . as said running good again now

[Toledodude1973]

These ageing omegas do test the patience!

[Keith ABS]

  I had some very odd probs with running then not, not starting then it would after half an hour  with a MG Montego EFI. Turned out to be alternator on that
keith B