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[jonny2112]

I have received the Stag kit and am reading through the destructions tonight as I appreciate there will be some differences to the kit I previously fitted.
I now have a few questions (what's new 😄😜)!

Firstly, it shows an electrical connection to the coil, ignition and the battery, but none to the ECU other than the lambdas. I'm guessing the coil and ignition connections are what we make at ECU rather than at the components themselves?
It also shows the filter in line prior to the pressure and temp sensor (which my old kit didn't have at all) but as the filter has two outlets and the sensor has one inlet, can the order of these be reversed?
There's no software or connection included but I think that's an oversight.

Sorry for what may be daft questions but going to get it right this time 😄 .... fingers crossed 

[jonny2112]

Just thinking that the sensor really should go in after the filter, and as both fuel lines are the same, then it shouldn't matter which one it's on. I think that makes sense now?

And apparently the lack of lead and software wasn't an oversight 
SW from the website, and I'm waiting to hear about getting a lead, though depending on the answer, I may seek to borrow / hire one here 

[Kevin Wood]

The instructions to get the RPM signal from the coil are about 30 years out of date. If you look at the guides here it shows where to pick up the tachometer signal from the engine ECU instead (light green wire).

Software / firmware can be downloaded from www.ac.com.pl (I believe).

It's well worth investing in a lead, IMHO. Shouldn't be more than £10-20.

[tigers_gonads]

4 wires into the ecu loom iirc
2 x lambda's
1 x tacho
1 x switched live

As Kevin says, its the light green wire BUT make sure you get the plug orientation right or you will get the wrong green wire and it won't work 

Allegedly   

[jonny2112]

Thanks guys, that's what I thought, and that's how I wired the old kit.
I remember trying to see the PIN numbers on the tabs in the ECU 
Just wanted to check as I didn't have instructions last time round nor was it a Stag kit.
Just need some dry weather and a couple of free days 

[jonny2112]

Had a quick look on the bay for a lead. Range from £22 - 46 ish, but then I found this 300902752260    . Surely a typo 

[amba]

Thats one pricey seller you have found there ,John.

Have a look at some of the spotlight/driving lights they are selling...pair for £1500..think somebody has got a very odd price list 

[jonny2112]

Just a little pricey 

Come across a few other issues 

1. There is a separate temp sensor which looks like it fits into the reducer (KME) but I can't see how. Though it is threaded there doesn't seem to be an opening for it on the reducer. There are two threaded openings but none fit the sensor?
2. There is also a separate cut off solenoid valve which looks like it should be fitted inline before the reducer, with in and out connections, so I'm guessing I need to break into the gas line to fit it?
3. Although a bracket thing is provided with the reducer, there does not appear to be any way of fitting it to the reducer or indeed the reducer to anything else?
4. The KME seems to have fittings of some shape or form on all sides so how can it be attached anywhere?

Just different from my last set up so struggling a little 
I've had a look online but can't find any fitting instructions 

[05omegav6]

Temp sensor screws in top between water inlets.
Shut off valve screws in bottom.
Mounting thread is central on back. Simply drill the driverside inner wing where the aux waterpump is/was, run a threaded bar into the reducer from the wheel arch side and finish up with a lock washer and nut

[jonny2112]

Temp sensor screws in top between water inlets.
Shut off valve screws in bottom.
Mounting thread is central on back. Simply drill the driverside inner wing where the aux waterpump is/was, run a threaded bar into the reducer from the wheel arch side and finish up with a lock washer and nut

Thanks Al, that's great.
I don't have it with me atm so I'll check in the morning but I think there is a plate affixed between the water pipes with a very obvious screw. Perhaps that covers the sensor location?
Also the valve doesn't have any threads to attach anywhere. It seems to be a standalone unit which has a backplate for fitting to a surface?
The mounting hole in the back of the reducer makes sense now though!

[05omegav6]

This might help along side the lpg guides here...

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=kme%20reducer%20installation%20instructions&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CDMQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Foldwww.kme.eu%2Fpdf%2FManualAkme-2.13_EN.pdf&ei=bTYNU6eUEIbB7Aa4mYHoDw&usg=AFQjCNEvQULKrdNS5hKcAiInzhxXnrjYkw&bvm=bv.61965928,d.ZGU

 

No longer have my kit to hand, so working off memory, so cannot remember if the temp sensor effectively clamps the water in/outlet retaining plate, or if it uses a hole next to it definitely on top though

If you need any adaption fittings for things like the shut off valves/tank/pipe work then give Tinley Tech a shout should be able to deliver within two days

[jonny2112]

Thanks again Al 

I'm going to have another look at the components here and post up a few pics if I still can't make sense of it 

Oh, and £45 from supplier for the lead! No wonder it wasn't included 
Think I'll look elsewhere for that first.

[jonny2112]

[05omegav6]

Remove the brass bolt on top, insert the temp sensor there

Is there a threaded hole on the flat surface underneath the reducer? If so that's the gas input

You'll need some suitable brass fittings along the lines of:

a 90° fitting which screws into the reducer.
a threaded adaptor to connect the 'out' side of the cut off valve to the 90° fitting.
a threaded adaptor to connect the gas supply from the tank to the 'in' side of the cut off valve.

The cut off valve is then wired in parallel to the tank cut off valve.

The brass pipe on top of the reducer is the gas outlet, which generally splits at the filter for each bank of injectors.
The grey plastic pipes are coolant in/out.
The small brass tube is the vacuum connection.

Hopefully makes things clearer

[jonny2112]

Al that's unbelievably helpful. Thank you very much 
Makes sense too about the joints, though I had thought if just splitting the gas pipe and using two new fittings for the valve. If you think it would be better to have it actually joined to the reducer then that's what I'll do, and yes the gas input is on the base.
Can the fittings be got from standard plumbers merchant, or better giving Tinley a shout?