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[05omegav6]

I would go with Tinley for two reasons...

1. you can easily identify a provisional list of fittings from their online shop.
2. if you ring them to order, you can discuss exactly what you're after, and they are well placed to either confirm your requirements or amend them as needed.

Bought all my fittings and tank from them, and gladly recommend them for the above two reasons, even if they're slightly more expensive than some alternatives

Ideally that shut off valve needs to be as near the reducer as possible. The 90° bend allows you to face the cut off valve inlet towards the gas supply where it comes through the inner wing, as per the guide here, whilst using a solid, secure connection to the reducer 

[jonny2112]

Ok mate. Enough said. That's good enough for me 

[jonny2112]

Parts to join valve and reducer ordered 

Have got the loom spread out on the floor to check connections, etc in advance, and have found the red/black wire for switched ignition emerges from the loom along with the wiring for the buzzer and switch panel, rather than an independent feed. This is going to create some issues in re routing it back to the car ECU.
I've also noticed that the feeds to the tank are a bit short! Cutbacks I guess  so I'll have to extend those to run the length of the car. There is an extension with the tank level gauge which I haven't opened as yet, but not with the valve. Depending on the wiring, I may look to using the existing connections and connect it to the new loom somewhere in the engine bay instead?

[jonny2112]

Parts to join valve and reducer ordered 

Have got the loom spread out on the floor to check connections, etc in advance, and have found the red/black wire for switched ignition emerges from the loom along with the wiring for the buzzer and switch panel, rather than an independent feed. This is going to create some issues in re routing it back to the car ECU.
I've also noticed that the feeds to the tank are a bit short! Cutbacks I guess  so I'll have to extend those to run the length of the car. There is an extension with the tank level gauge which I haven't opened as yet, but not with the valve. Depending on the wiring, I may look to using the existing connections and connect it to the new loom somewhere in the engine bay instead?

There's loads of cable on this. I'm sure it'll stretch from tank to engine alone.
Need to check valve wiring now to see if I can use the existing feed as an 'extension'

[jonny2112]

Mmm.
Existing tank level gauge is the two wire type and was virtually new when I got the kit, and is black and white colour coded.
Tank valve is black and brown coded at the plug, though I'd need to remove the tape to get at the join to ensure loom colours. Stag loom is black and blue so will need correct orientation.

Would there be any issues do you think in using these existing feeds and connecting to them at the bulkhead? I wouldn't damage or shorten the new loom anyway, but might be worth a try?

[Lazydocker]

Do not remove the brass bolt... It will be too big for the temp sensor anyway.

I'm on my phone but check the orientation of the reducer... I think you'll find the water connections go at the bottom  The brass bolt is for draining the heavy ends.

[Kevin Wood]

Do not remove the brass bolt... It will be too big for the temp sensor anyway.

I'm on my phone but check the orientation of the reducer... I think you'll find the water connections go at the bottom  The brass bolt is for draining the heavy ends.

Yep, you're right. I remember as it seemed counter-intuitive to me at the time, but there's something about avoiding the heavy ends settling on the liquid inlet and blocking it in the documentation, so it must be fitted with the water connections downwards.

Oh, and on the tank valve connections I believe blue-> Red and Black -> Black.

[jonny2112]

I haven't done anything with this yet as I try to figure it all out, but the supplier also talked about the bolt being the sensor housing. So where should the sensor go?
Also, are you saying that I need to position the reducer with the water pipes facing downwards? That'll make it a little more awkward but better knowing now!

[05omegav6]

Go with Kevin and LD on this

Mine was never fitted, but I had got as far as planning the engine bay, and had assumed then that the water came from the top summat learnt

[jonny2112]

I was going to fit the reducer horizontally with the gas inlet to the left and the water pipes to the right. Time for a rethink 

[jonny2112]

Tinley fittings have arrived (great service  ) but they're a bloomin nuisance!
Getting the 90○ bend and connector together whilst holding both the valve and reducer steady is good fun! And this is only a dry run in the kitchen! What's it going to be like for real? Even worse, although the bend can be persuaded to be in a position allowing the valve to be vertical, it will not allow the back of it to be flush with the back of the reducer, for mounting purposes. It 'over rotates' when tightened, by about 45○ and I'm not convinced it could safely be encouraged through the remainder of the rotation. Not to tighten it prevents more serious problems 

[05omegav6]

Use another winding or two of gas proof plumbers tape

[jonny2112]

Use another winding or two of gas proof plumbers tape

You sure? That would be really handy!
Cheers Al 

Should have asked, can you recommend supplier?
I suppose tinley do it? Should have thought of that!

[05omegav6]

Yup.
You're welcome.
I can.
Yup.
Yup. 

In that order...

[jonny2112]

Yup.
You're welcome.
I can.
Yup.
Yup. 

In that order...