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[annihilator]

Hi,have had my 3.0i auto for about a month now with no problems until today.on my way home needed to get past a dawdler in front so i booted it and the kickdown worked fine and i accelerated away but about 50yds further on as i was slowing down the box seemed to dither between gears before carrying on normally but then after another 50yds as i was braking on an approach to a give way junction it just stalled without warning.
i managed to pull over and tried to restart several times.at first it would either just turnover and not start or start and die.a couple of times it did start ok but as i pulled away it stalled again, until it restarted and then ran normally again for the last mile home.
no eml came on and the autobox "s" light didn't either.
any thoughts.
Thanks John.

[TheBoy]

Check for codes in engine ecu

[amba]

You need to have a look at any codes in the ecu to establish what caused the fault
EML doesn't always come on but founds quite like crank shaft sensor issues

[annihilator]

will do 

[chrisgixer]

If no codes (see paper clip test for code reading in maintenance) then clean icv with carb cleaner, then a light oil.

Cleaning icv won't hurt anyway tbh, but it might be a crank sensor issue, hence the code reading to confirm.

[annihilator]

Cheers.

[dbug]

As said likely to be crank sensor - but try disconnecting maf first to see if any difference

[omegod]

At that age would it be a square plug crank sensor?

[TheBoy]

Cranksensor faults often through a MAF code on older v6 engines. The MAFs on these are bulletproof, and when they do fail, its completely, unlike later v6, which makes diagnosis easier

[annihilator]

did the paper clip test and after the 3x 12's i got 144 & 145 which i believe are immobiliser faults ?

[chrisgixer]

No 19(crank sensor)?

They don't always throw a code. But mean time, clean icv I guess.

[annihilator]

cleaned out the idle valve yesterday and took it for a test drive and sadly made no difference  .so i have removed the crank sensor and it does indeed have the squared corner type plug and will be picking a new one up this pm.
John.
ps. is there a way to clear fault codes after the paper clip test or does it need the techy 2.
Thanks.

[TheBoy]

Most faults clear when fault is fixed, some clear after a set time, some (like those immobiliser ones) do not - these need a code reader to clear.

[annihilator]

fitted new crank sensor and took it for a test drive and it's no better.it only happens when braking/slowing down after hard acceleration.it then stalls and is difficult to restart but when it does if then driven gently slowly building up speed through the gears it behaves perfectly.

[annihilator]

Tried unplugging the afm this morning and then replicated the conditions that caused the stalls and it didn't falter and generally seemed to drive a lot better.will the later facelift 3.0 ones suit or does it need to be a pre-facelift meter.or is it worth trying to clean it.
Thanks.