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[TestOmega]

I was trying to remove the CPS holding bolt and unfortunately used wrong socket. It is stuck solid with little room to play. I am going to continue to work on it but have couple of questions,

1.  What is the size of the bolt in length and Torx value?

2.  Is this bolt used anywhere else in the car that I can temporarily take it from like the plenum etc.?

3.  Any suggestions how to remove the CPS hold down bolt that has head messed up to use any sockets?

Thank you in advance I am a little stuck and appreciate help?

Regards.

[chrisgixer]

Remove the head of the bolt. Either drill or grind it off.

The sensor with then come free. Then you can use the chuck of the drill to clamp onto the remains of the thread and spin it out backwards. Assuming your drill has reverse, of course.

[chrisgixer]

Not sure on bolt size. Anything that fits will work obviously.

[TestOmega]

Chris I am tool limited. My drill would not get into that space. I already broke plastic of the old CPS and it slides off. Is the bolt threaded into the block or their is protrusion as I see a shiny stub and the bolt remaining after I broke of the plastic. Should I try to spin out all that shiny post assuming the bolt is into the rusted part?

Thanks.

[Kevin Wood]

The shiny bit is an insert that was in the crank sensor moulding. Can you get a mole wrench on the remains of the nut and unscrew it (after a good soak in plus gas)?

[TestOmega]

Is the bolt normal or reverse threaded? I mean I try to twist it anticlockwise to loosen it like lefty loosy righty tighty? Thanks for your comments so far. The shiny part looks too thick compared to the replacement Genuine right CPS i have to replace it with or it may be just the way it looks in tight spot?

I do have a mole wrench but it is very very tight to grab this piece.

Thanks.

[Kevin Wood]

It's a normal right hand thread and screws into a threaded hole in the block.

[TestOmega]

Kevin so thank you. I kept the area soaked in "Liquid Wrench" so probably when I get at it, it will move. Is this bolt like the one securing the plenum or different. Here in Canada such Torx screws were not much used or popular so I want to make do with some temporary to put the CPS in and then get a screw for replacement.

Thanks.

[Nick W]

Once you get it out, you'll find it's a standard metric bolt(M6 I think) with a Torx head. A normal hex-headed bolt will work just as well, so I wouldn't worry about getting the 'proper' thing.

[05omegav6]

Being left hand drive I can see why space seems a bit more limited...

Now would be a good time to do an oil change... either remove the filter canister or the housing (depends what is fitted to your car).

This should then give you a bit more room to move

[TestOmega]

Folks thanks for all the ideas. I tapped in with hammer and extension the Torx bit and voila it turned and came out. Too tired right now from under the car for one blood* puny bolt but sweet. I indeed will change the oil and reroute as per MARKDtm right up. I printed it before starting and fell prey to other North American posts and used wrong socket. Once the new CPS goes in, hopefully all codes will clear and she will adapt to/learn the new CPS. Any other thoughts from here on I will appreciate and I will post back after this part of the job is done.

Regards to all, what a great bunch! 

[05omegav6]

Genuine crank sensor from Gm, fit as per guide and code should self clear

[dbug]

As you've now got it out, replace torx bolt with a cap-head (easier and more positive to use an Allen key to fit/remove).  Think its a 6mm iirc

[TestOmega]

Alright I did the job with a new bolt and changed the oil too with new GM filter.  All is good.

Just for the record when the car died on the freeway/hiway the following was left as codes,

Code Set: 
MIL set; Code P0300 ---- Random Multiple Cylinder misfire

Pending Codes: 
P0302 --- Cylinder 2 misfire
P0305 --- Cylinder 5 misfire
P0303 --- Cylinder 3 misfire
P0306 --- Cylinder 6 misfire

After the CPS was installed, the car started with first crank and have not observed any issues or new codes. Perhaps I should have left the codes to self clear but I cleared these. I am watching if any new are pending or set. Nothing so far after a days driving yesterday.

By the way if it helps someone, the bolt indeed is M6 and it is 12mm in threaded part and perhaps 15 mm with head included. I got a bolt with different head and it has Torx head that one can tighten with Allen key.

I did reroute the CPS cable away from exhaust manifold towards the left fender/wheel side leaving the Oil filter area. As per Mark's writeup there is slack left with ties holding it in place.

Again thanks to all. I greatly appreciate the help and ideas I received.

Cheers. 

PS:  If this does not stay as permanent fix I will report back.