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[cd 2.2]

After my "rage quit", I proceeded to fix this issue! The new camshaft sensor was fitted but the EML stayed on .... Took it and got it read again and reset, Code P0170 remained but was cleared and the light went out! 8 miles later the EML was back on again so I repeated above process with the read and reset, Sure enough it was P0170 MIXTURE LEAN! Went through and checked everything, and I mean everything. Cam sensor connection, Maf connection, any air leaks in the filter side and even if the filter was clogged, checked the throttle body connections and whether the throttle body was dirty and found nothing amiss ... Moved the search onto the exhaust and when I went to check the front lambda sensor connector the wire came apart, someone in the past (not me before it's said) had fitted one of those splice it in yourself sensors. All the 4 wires had come loose and even after re-connecting them all P0170 remained!
I thought sod it and bought an NTK (made by NGK) front lambda sensor including the correct wire so I didn't need to splice anything in for a total of £61 including VAT ! Light went off and has stayed off so far since I replaced this 

I never asked the question "is my cam sensor dead", This point I already knew. I was simply asking for advice as to what was causing the other fault codes stored as it's been reset after the HGF so there should have only been cam sensor related faults in there !! I was confused as to why throttle position was in the list and what a heat sensor was ... But I went out off my own back and did the research, luckily for me I replaced the one item at fault for the P0170. But as people who know about P0170 it can be caused by a million different things and not 100% a lambda sensor !

In the future I will be more careful of asking for advice, Obviously this seems to get on ppls t*ts too much as I don't know you all on first name basis and don't know the secret handshake of Oof

[Mr.OmegaMan]

Welcome back CD 2.2 

[PAULCDX]

Well done Graham, great to see you back   

[chrisgixer]

Cam sensor on the 2.2, and crank sensor on the v engines can both throw erroneous codes.

It's not until the basic fault if the sensor is removed or fixed, can the remaining codes be trusted. Although more experienced members than me did suspect a genuine fault with 0170 iirc.

So the advice was valid. One step at a time.

Basic rule, of sorts;
Do too many things at once, and if another fault is introduced, it's then a bugger to know which of those numerous actions caused it. But one thing at a time, and test the results, then you know where you are.

Patience patience.

[cd 2.2]

Yeah Patience is something that I'm having to learn allot with this car!
No longer can I just randomly throw spanners at my car and know it will be fixed. Somehow I think that Vx must have employed Lucas electrics to teach them the in car wiring ... It's mostly smoke, wrapped in nice shiney plastic 

I have a very short list of things to do now before the mot of doom ... Front n/s wheel bearing, rear brake discs, pads and handbrake sort out the alternator as it keeps blowing headlight bulbs in alternating sequence and that's using 55w standard bulbs (8 so far in a month) and just give the old girl a good once over for any nasty surprises!

I also learned the reason why most of the pattern cam sensors don't work on omega's ... They don't have a fast enough switch response time  My dad has a Fuel parts cam sensor on his and a year on theres no issues with it at all which is a nice surprise

[Sir Tigger KC]

If this one's testing your patience, wait till you 'graduate' to a V6!     

Welcome back! 

[Webby the Bear]

Welcome back mate 

[TheBoy]

and handbrake sort out

Use the guide in Maint Guides section, written by Marks DTM Calib, these cars handrakes need a bit more work than many other cars you may have worked on.

Its a bit more fiddly, but once you have the knack, relatively straightforward.  Don't be tempted to just adjust cable

Oh, also plusgas chassis heatshield studs the day before

[TheBoy]

And welcome back

[chrisgixer]

Aye? I've only adjusted my hand brake twice. On two different cars.

Can only assume some abuse there.

[Andy H]

Yeah Patience is something that I'm having to learn allot with this car!
No longer can I just randomly throw spanners at my car and know it will be fixed. Somehow I think that Vx must have employed Lucas electrics to teach them the in car wiring ... It's mostly smoke, wrapped in nice shiney plastic 

I have a very short list of things to do now before the mot of doom ... Front n/s wheel bearing, rear brake discs, pads and handbrake sort out the alternator as it keeps blowing headlight bulbs in alternating sequence and that's using 55w standard bulbs (8 so far in a month) and just give the old girl a good once over for any nasty surprises!

I also learned the reason why most of the pattern cam sensors don't work on omega's ... They don't have a fast enough switch response time  My dad has a Fuel parts cam sensor on his and a year on theres no issues with it at all which is a nice surprise

Excess voltage can destroy all sorts of components. I wonder if it had anything to do with the other electrical failures? (eg O2 sensor & cam sensor)

Have you read this guide Battery, charging and Starting diagnosis?

[cd 2.2]

I guess that's a possibility  I know that there is something not right with the alternator, This had to be fixed in a "get you by" kind of way ... The old regulator pack thing on the back had failed so a second hand known good one was sorted in a rush as the car was inoperative at the time! Turns out it wasn't as good as it could be. Occasionally when you start the car the battery light comes on but really dim and proceeds to go out after a mile or so. The alternator is only charging at about 13.8 volts, while acceptable (just) it's not ideal!

I'm guessing that could be a cause of allot of the issues but a new replacement is getting fitted asap, I'm not even sure what conditions illuminate the battery light on the dash ... just can't remember what makes the light go on in this manner. Maybe someone can shed a little more light on this as I'm extremely tired this evening after cutting a car into 3 pieces with my brother and cba to search google about it 

[TheBoy]

Get a replacement regulator for your old alternator. About £22 last time I looked, from the Gay or E

[Andy H]

I guess that's a possibility  I know that there is something not right with the alternator, This had to be fixed in a "get you by" kind of way ... The old regulator pack thing on the back had failed so a second hand known good one was sorted in a rush as the car was inoperative at the time! Turns out it wasn't as good as it could be. Occasionally when you start the car the battery light comes on but really dim and proceeds to go out after a mile or so. The alternator is only charging at about 13.8 volts, while acceptable (just) it's not ideal!

I'm guessing that could be a cause of allot of the issues but a new replacement is getting fitted asap, I'm not even sure what conditions illuminate the battery light on the dash ... just can't remember what makes the light go on in this manner. Maybe someone can shed a little more light on this as I'm extremely tired this evening after cutting a car into 3 pieces with my brother and cba to search google about it 

13.8v won't harm anything. I was concerned that a faulty alternator might be pumping out 20v+.

Clearly if you have a known fault with the alternator you need to fix it though.......