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[frmg0014]

Hi Guys,

I have a coolant leak originating from the middle of the V part of the engine of my 2001 Opel Omega MV6.  I replaced the thermostat housing and inlet pipe seals, however the problem has not been resolved.  I will be in the process of tearing it apart again  to replace the oil cooler plate, oil cooler, coolant bridge seals.  But this time I will be armed with a coolant pressure tester  .

My question is, to remove and reseal the oil cooler plate gaskets, will the two oil lines need to be disconnected from the lower part of the engine (oil filter area)? or is it possible to move the two lines aside enough to slide the plate off? 

[amba]

Wiser undoing the 2 oil feed pipes by the oil filter,as if you bend them out of the way you run a high risk of not getting them to sit back in place onto the cooler banjo bolts.

As the pipes are just a light alloy they could become distorted and give you bigger problems than the extra effort undoing them.

Make sure you replace the seals either side of the banjo bolt and thoroughly clean the plate and block prior to applying the correct "Grey Sealant"  GM part only

[Keith ABS]

  Exactly as amba says
keith B

[frmg0014]

I was afraid of that .  Anyone know what holds the oil filter housing to the block on a 2001 3.0 V6?  I'm getting mixed results of removing by means of an allen key or removing a bolt.  Just want to make sure I have all the proper tools ready before even starting this.  And I'm guessing I'm going to need the following seals:

Coolant Bridge:
- 4 dowty washers - for each side of coolant bridge

Oil Cooler:
- 4 alloy looking O-rings - for each side of the oil cooler pipes
- 2 O-rings between oil cooler plate and oil cooler

Oil Cooler Plate:
- Grey RTV sealer

Oil Filter Housing:
- Rubber seal between oil filter housing and engine block

Oil Cooler Pipes:
- Seals between oil cooler pipes and engine block (oil filter area)

Please feel free to add or correct what I have listed here.  I will be starting this project within the next couple of days on my days off and I'd like to order the appropriate parts in case they are not in stock.

[kevinp58]

I was afraid of that .  Anyone know what holds the oil filter housing to the block on a 2001 3.0 V6?  I'm getting mixed results of removing by means of an allen key or removing a bolt.  Just want to make sure I have all the proper tools ready before even starting this.  And I'm guessing I'm going to need the following seals:

Coolant Bridge:
- 4 dowty washers - for each side of coolant bridge

Oil Cooler:
- 4 alloy looking O-rings - for each side of the oil cooler pipes
- 2 O-rings between oil cooler plate and oil cooler

Oil Cooler Plate:
- Grey RTV sealer

Oil Filter Housing:
- Rubber seal between oil filter housing and engine block

Oil Cooler Pipes:
- Seals between oil cooler pipes and engine block (oil filter area)

Please feel free to add or correct what I have listed here.  I will be starting this project within the next couple of days on my days off and I'd like to order the appropriate parts in case they are not in stock.

Make sure you don't re-fill with coolant for at least 12 hours best left overnight then refill the next morning.  I believe you will need a 12mm allen key type socket to undo it  it will need to be the long type too. 

[terry paget]

Oil filter holder is held to the block either by an internal Allen screw, or a large hexagon (24mm I think) head screw. I ran into this question last summer. changing RH exhaust manifold on my 2.5. Trouble is you cannot get your head in the gap to look into the filter holder.

[LC0112G]

Bu99ered if I can see the screw on mine, and it's out of the car on an engine stand.



Will have another look tomorrow and try and get a better picture.

[LC0112G]

Coolant Bridge:
- 4 dowty washers - for each side of coolant bridge Can't find in my EPC

Oil Cooler:
- 4 alloy looking O-rings - for each side of the oil cooler pipes  = 11076852
- 2 O-rings between oil cooler plate and oil cooler = 90409175

Oil Cooler Plate:
- Grey RTV sealer = 9163307

Oil Filter Housing:
- Rubber seal between oil filter housing and engine block = 90573241 (up to eng no 08434315) or 9240161 (from eng no 08434316)

Oil Cooler Pipes:
- Seals between oil cooler pipes and engine block (oil filter area) = not shown in EPC, and none present on my engine.

Please feel free to add or correct what I have listed here.  I will be starting this project within the next couple of days on my days off and I'd like to order the appropriate parts in case they are not in stock.

[LC0112G]

Ahh, Grandma, eggs, sucking, teaching. Arrange the words into a sentance.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90588.0

[frmg0014]

Thanks for the help guys.  Just need to order the seals and I should be good to go.  Not looking forward to removing those oil lines by the filter though  .  Hoping I have a bolt in there.. kinda hard to imagine trying to fit the right size allen key when you can't even see where it goes into.  And LC0112G... if you can get a pic of that oil housing bolt/screw.. that would be great!  At least I'd would get an idea which area to target. 

[terry paget]

Those oil pipes came off easily enough for me, using the right size (19mm?)  crow's foot spanner. It helps to remove the crank sensor first.. Good luck!

[LC0112G]

And LC0112G... if you can get a pic of that oil housing bolt/screw.. that would be great!  At least I'd would get an idea which area to target. 

I'm still none the wiser. Cant see an allen key bolt in here. Need to buy a 19mm (yes the oil unions are 19mm) crows foot at lunchtime.

[robson]

Are there flats inside that centre  hole to take an allen key.

[LC0112G]

Are there flats inside that centre  hole to take an allen key.

Derrr Dunces cap on and sitting at the back of the class.

Yes, the allen key goes up the hole in the middle. 12mm, and quite tight.

[kevinp58]

Those oil pipes came off easily enough for me, using the right size (19mm?)  crow's foot spanner. It helps to remove the crank sensor first.. Good luck!

It will be easy with the crows foot the right tool.