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Author Topic: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....  (Read 1513 times)

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Webby the Bear

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Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« on: 23 April 2014, 14:43:58 »

.... is this the procedure to coat it in underseal...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPCR5sxa1k0

I know the guys got compressed air and i'll end up using an aerosol but I'm thinking the principle will be the same?

Also, as the car has it's undercoat on most of it in tact I take it I can leave those areas and only cover the areas that have been repaired and/or are exposed underneath?

I'm thinking the Omega's have wheel inner linings so I'm thinking I should check behind these for rust also? or are they undercoated like the underneath is?
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Andy B

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #1 on: 23 April 2014, 15:24:07 »

....

I'm thinking the Omega's have wheel inner linings so I'm thinking I should check behind these for rust also? or are they undercoated like the underneath is?

Yes, your car has wheel arch liners at the front (can't think now for the rear) but those liners do hide a multitude of sins rust! As has been mentioned here a few times, the front chassis legs are prone to rot and will be an MOT failure if within where your steering etc is bolted (there's a distance that I can't now remember)
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cem_devecioglu

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #2 on: 23 April 2014, 15:57:08 »

Webby, there may be many places with rust.. after these are repaired, take it to a sandblasting shop.. have it sandblasted with very tiny material and then you can use this technique.. :y
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omega3000

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #3 on: 23 April 2014, 16:59:03 »

The spray cans clog up really easy , i use the brush on stuff tetrosil or something  :-\ Oh old engine oil is great also  :D
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #4 on: 23 April 2014, 17:44:44 »

Thanks guys. Old engine oil certainly would help from a budget point of view. Doew it really work?

So, to check for rot behind these liners.... how do the liners detach?
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davieboy0312

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #5 on: 23 April 2014, 17:53:42 »

4 or 5 plastic nuts (use a 10mm socket), 2 T20 torx on liner to bumper, a popper to liner to wing when there all out grab back edge and push away from wing so it unclips

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Webby the Bear

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #6 on: 23 April 2014, 18:16:16 »

Cheers Davieboy  :y
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andyc

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #7 on: 23 April 2014, 21:07:06 »

Webby

If you haven't get onto these guys

http://www.frost.co.uk/

Subscribe to there news letter and request a free catalogue. They have everything you could ever want and its good quality products. Careful though you might wet your pants.

Also have a look at
http://www.rust.co.uk/#

One thing i would say and i know its not always possible but try not to scrimp on cheap products, there cheap for a reason and you only want to be doing the job once, not very other year

Cheers
Andy


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omega3000

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #8 on: 23 April 2014, 21:41:03 »

Angle grinder/cutting discs , couple of flap/wire wheels usually sorts out the rust . Handy part of any omega tool kit  :)
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minifreek

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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #9 on: 23 April 2014, 22:03:01 »

I used the aerosol underseal on mine when I sorted the rear chassis rails for its recent MoT...

I do have some Schultz paint on stuff which is for the easy accesible areas, whereas I use the aerosol for the not so easy areas...

I also used to use old engine oil on Mini's rear subframes to keep them from rotting too quickly, the front subframes where always covered in old engine oil so it deffo works... :lol:
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Re: Once I've got the rust out/new steel welded in....
« Reply #10 on: 23 April 2014, 23:35:27 »

I have used 3M Car Body Schutz over many years - good product - if spraying with a gun tendency to block nozzles, best to thin slightly - their rattle cans work ok though.

If you go ahead trust your standard of masking up will be better than that in the video - typical American "craftsmanship"
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