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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys,

Had a bit of a coolant leak for a while now. Goes from 'max fill' to 'coolant low message' within a month or so. I think it's coming from the stat housing and /or transfer pipe to stat house connection because there's a bit of wetness down on the engine lip under the crank shaft pulley and oil pressure switch. When me and Martin did the stat replacement as part of the top-end rebuild I did use new rings for the transfer pipe but did think it wasn't that secure.

Anyways, I'm going to fix the leak this week on Wednesday but lets say this coolant has been dripping for a while on the timing belt should this be replaced as it's ''contaminated'' or will this be ok? Wondering if this is the main contributor to the squeaking belt also (although I would have thought a liquid on the belt would quieten it down)?

Cheers boys 

[05omegav6]

Was the bastid bolt refitted /still in place and tight? If it comes loose then the pipe can detach from the thermostat body, potentially allowing it to leak. Also consider the hose itself and the oil cooler area as potential suspects...

As far as the belt goes, if it has been on less than a year then change the belt only, but be sure to change the complete kit within three years, ie when it would be due after last change. If the belt has been on longer than a year, then change the complete kit

[Webby the Bear]

Was the bastid bolt refitted /still in place and tight? If it comes loose then the pipe can detach from the thermostat body, potentially allowing it to leak. Also consider the hose itself and the oil cooler area as potential suspects...

As far as the belt goes, if it has been on less than a year then change the belt only, but be sure to change the complete kit within three years, ie when it would be due after last change. If the belt has been on longer than a year, then change the complete kit

Thanks mate. Yes, B-bolt done up and tight (after a reet faff!) I will re-check though.

Will get the plenum, inlets and sandwich plate off and then pressure test it to confirm my suspicions tho....

Belts not been on a year yet so i'll probably replace this when I get some spondooleys 

Ps, re making my own pressure tester.....I got an old bike tyre inner tube valve and an expansion tank cap. ive made a hole in it and the vale fits nicely. Will the black sealant from Halfords seal it up good enough to not leak?

[Nick W]

Just use Jubilee clips on the bike hose. Don't put too much pressure in it, a cooling system only runs at 1bar. Leave it for a couple of hours and check there's still pressure in it.

Finally don't leave any removed components lying about; the pikeys had my Avenger radiator of my front court.

[Temetsy]

Could the coolant hoses that go to throttle body leak? The one in front and the one behind tbody. Those were the first places I had in mind if dripping on t-belt.

[chrisgixer]

Its a good idea to pressure test the system and physically see where the coolant is coming from. Rate of loss was almost identical to my old 2.5 when the oil cooler cover plate failed.

Re pressure testing, it doesn't matter how, but I find a foot pump on the throttle body cooling pipes works well. Pump on one pipe and clamp the other. Especially with those red/blue plastic fittings that come with the pump for footballs and air beds etc.

Strip the engine down to the valley and you should then see the leak. Coolant pump seal could leak too, so don't forget to look there too.

[Webby the Bear]

Lads, you've just helped me a bunch!

I kept thinking i need to pressure test a\t the expansion tank..... but of course i dont!!! as you both say (chris and nick) i can hook up my pump to the front plenum hoses and pinch the other one off.

good thinking lads. saves even bothering to make the home-made tool!!!!

my foot pump has a psi gauge so ill just keep an eye on that.

Temetsy... thanks for the input but those hoses are clean and dry