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[carswaps]

Just bought a 2001 MV6 estate and drove it home 200 miles yesterday.
The engine is sweet with no strange noises etc.
only 100,000 miles with full documented service history.
Last oil change 4000 miles ago.
So just for something to do really I have started to change the oil and filter today, ran the engine until warm then dropped the oil.
The sump plug was a little tight so I gave it a quick tap with the hammer, as I did I could here a metallic bounce on the inside!
So dropped the oil then took the sum off and this was inside:


It has a wide head.
Having looked around I can't see anywhere with a bolt missing.
Possibly the only place It may have come from is the opposite of this pic (on the passenger side) but its hard to see and impossible to get to from the sump.

This place with the arrow.


Any ideas guys?

[teddington man]

Looks like a bolt from a con rod but I could be wrong

[carswaps]

Looks like a bolt from a con rod but I could be wrong

Its not a rod bolt........this is a 3.2 Y32SE con rod bolt.
Almost a full thread and a smaller head.

[davieboy0312]

Looks like one of the bolts from the bridge plate

[carswaps]

Looks like one of the bolts from the bridge plate

What is the bridge plate?
obviously the bolt should be in, but will this have any detriment if its not?

[Andy H]

Looks like one of the bolts from the bridge plate

What is the bridge plate?
obviously the bolt should be in, but will this have any detriment if its not?

That rather depends on why it is in the sump.
1. It is a spare left there by a generous engine builder.

2.  It failed to get torqued up during production and fell out in the first 1000 miles. (In which case it should go another 100,000 miles.)

3. Something has moved recently and caused the bolt to work loose. If this is the case then it won't end well but I don't know how you could check without stripping the bottom end to inspect it

* The bridge plate is a frame that goes under the cap bolts for the main bearings to help them resist the sideways forces you get on the main bearings in a 'Vee' engine. If they come loose the bearing caps will move from side to side and chew away until you stop due to a lack of main bearings

[annihilator]

have a look here http://www.partsbase.org/opel/omega-b-1994-2003-5-5-25-oil-pan-and-fittings/
and see if any match your bolts length.

[carswaps]

have a look here http://www.partsbase.org/opel/omega-b-1994-2003-5-5-25-oil-pan-and-fittings/
and see if any match your bolts length.

Thanks for that!
However the plot thickens......
Just measured the bolt (not including the head) mad it would seem its an M8 X 35
Nothing on that list is one of these?
I hope its not the bolt that holds the spring loaded snap switch into the centrifugal main doofer whatsit! 

[JamesV6CDX]

Was this a silver 3.2 estate?

[JamesV6CDX]

Please tell me it wasn't from "weather whites" dealer......

[davieboy0312]

http://www.partsbase.org/opel/omega-b-1994-2003-5-5-40-crankshaft/

Number 17 is the v6 I think. Them should be the bolts to

[carswaps]

http://www.partsbase.org/opel/omega-b-1994-2003-5-5-40-crankshaft/

Number 17 is the v6 I think. Them should be the bolts to

bolt Number 15 in the nearest (crank bearing cover to cylinder block) but is 1mm longer and has a small head? also I can see the bearing cover (I think) and it has the bolts in.

[davieboy0312]

When I did my bearing last month. The bolt you got there should be 4 of them holding bridge to the block. Same as yours defo

[carswaps]

When I did my bearing last month. The bolt you got there should be 4 of them holding bridge to the block. Same as yours defo

That is great info pal...thanks!
No point in stripping the whole engine for that.
If it lets go whilst in my ownership then I'll just source another complete engine.
Thanks for all the input guys 

[Marks DTM Calib]

It certainly looks like a main bearing ladder to block bolt