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[makeitsnappy]

Hello forum folks ! Need a little advise here. I'm trying to remove 8 torx looking bolts from the flexplate securing it to the crankshaft so that I can replace my leaking rear main seal. The problem I'm having is using a 3/8 drive t-14 socket and ratchet. The first bolt I couldn't budge it at all and it kinda buggered up the edges. Any advise from correct tools to correct procedure would be greatly appreciated Thank you

[serek]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marksman-41-2-600W-Watt-115mm-Corded-Electric-Angle-Grinder-Grinding-Sanding-3C-/291204964965?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item43cd2b2265
I would say use one like in link above , done that way few times always do the job

[makeitsnappy]

 alright I'll give a look. I was using a 3/8 drive ratchet w/E-14 socket its a snug fit but I don't have the strength to break it lose and I have a E-14 impact socket but its 3/8 drive to w/side impact ratchet it will lock up and I still don't have strength to break it lose. I have a 1/2 air impact but don't have that size socket. So I'll try getting a E-14 in a impact 1/2 drive. But in the mean while I got to know how to get the ones I've buggered up does anyone think welding a regular size nut to the end would work or are there any other option. Well thank you for the link I'll check it out in the meantime I'm all ears open to anything. We'll get back as soon as any progress is made.

[Webby the Bear]

Get 1/2'' to 3/8 socket adapter and get a 2ft breaker bar on it

[makeitsnappy]

 ???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it.

[serek]

???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it.

when you grind them off they will come with fingers

[Webby the Bear]

You have an E14 socket with a 3/8'' drive.

Get a socket adapter.....



....your E14 will fit on to this. And then you fit this on to a breaker bar that's drive is 1/2''.

You now have the correct socket on the bolts and leverage.

[makeitsnappy]

  Yeah Yeah webby bear that's something I will be looking for get back as soon as any progress is made. Does anyone know what the torque specifications are for these bolts?

[Webby the Bear]

Hang on...

Just re-read your original post. Apologies if I've got the wrong end of the stick.

Yeah, either Serek's way or welding a nut on would work.

[makeitsnappy]

 

???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it.

when you grind them off they will come with fingers

;)yeah Serek I get your point but I would be at a loss at figuring out what tool II would use to bite onto the fingers

[The Red Baron]

???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it.

when you grind them off they will come with fingers

;)yeah Serek I get your point but I would be at a loss at figuring out what tool II would use to bite onto the fingers

meaning after the heads have been ground off then the remaining bit of bolt will be fingertight & easily removed. 

[makeitsnappy]

Hey there The Red Baron, is that from experience ? because if that's true then that's gonna take a load off my mind It kinda makes sense cause basically all the pressure is up on the head as to being down in the threads

[Kevin Wood]

If it's any consolation, I would imagine these are stretch bolts which should be renewed when disturbed anyway, so yes, weld a nut onto it, or grind it off and get a new set of bolts.

Either way, they'll come easily since the tightness comes from the clamping force generated under the head, so once this is gone, the thread will just be loose in the end of the crank.

TORX fasteners are great for automated assembly in the factory, but not so easy to remove with hand tools.

[chrisgixer]

Grind head off. ....or drill

[makeitsnappy]

If it's any consolation, I would imagine these are stretch bolts which should be renewed when disturbed anyway, so yes, weld a nut onto it, or grind it off and get a new set of bolts.

Either way, they'll come easily since the tightness comes from the clamping force generated under the head, so once this is gone, the thread will just be loose in the end of the crank.

TORX fasteners are great for automated assembly in the factory, but not so easy to remove with hand tools.

O yes I try to do some home work before starting projects on this car so I've already ordered my bolts #09126505 from gmpartsgiant at2.90 a pop just waiting for them to arrive. I don't know where to find a good manual on this car I searched but it would probably be a Vaxhall thing. Saw a repair manual on a EU e-bay for I think omega b or somrthing like that but it looked like a children's fairy tail size book so I passed. Is it just me or does everyone else thinks The Red Baron looks like Bruce willis