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[aaronjb]

My money is that you just aren't in the hole right - as suggested already it's easy to feel like the bolt is winding in when in reality it's only caught in the various brackets it holds on.. then it just goes round and round and round and ..

I remember mine being a pain in the backside to get back in until a miracle happened and it just popped right in at the right angle, through all the right things and wound straight back in.

If you'd stripped it when tightening it I'd have expected you to notice at that point or at the very least when you tried to remove it, not on subsequently reinstalling it..

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Aaron. Yeah it tightened nicely.... then i removed it. and then it started to spin so you could wel be right.

I'll remove the bolt tonight and see what state its in. if its pristine can i guarantee ive not mashed up the thread in the cylinder head?

[YZ250]

I've never used any sealant on O Rings, although as said, a bit of spit helps to slide them in if it's a push fit condition.

I'd be looking at narrowing it down to a specific area, although if coolant is getting on the cambelt I'd expect the leak to be more inboard than outboard. Although in saying that, a poor fitting top hose would spray inboard due to the way it fits. 
Transfer pipe to top hose, check it's fully home/sealing ok?
Transfer pipe to stat, is it a good fit?
Thermostat itself, is there a chance that the seal moved out the groove on fitment, is it the correct seal, if new bolts were used are they the same length or have they bottomed out, were the faces of fitment clean, are the stat bodies the same thickness requiring different bolts etc etc.

It's got to come apart by the sound of it so all easily checkable and will hopefully become more apparent when it is apart. As for the B bolt, try it on its own first as already suggested. You'll know for sure then. 

I'm sure you'll sort it. 

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks YZ

Stat houses are exactly the same as i compared them. So reusing bolts shouldnt have caused an issue.

Thin seal ring DID initially fall out and i noticed it put a bit of silicone grease (not sealer) to hold it in place so its certainly quite possible this moved again especially as it sounds like i got the wrong one

thanks for the info.... hopefully its just that seal ring if not i got a busy couple of weekends 

[terry paget]

Hi Webby, sorry to hear of your troubles.
Was it you in an earlier enquring thread about the the O rings being a loose fit? I have found that in the past, and have preferred to use O rings from an assortment of of O rings I have and seemed to fit better. I have changed three thermostats and never had a leak.
As to the B bolt, I have twice left off the lifting hook in despair. I have never removed an engine in my life. Who needs lifting hooks?

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks for your input Terry

Are you saying that it will bolt up nicely even if i remove the engine lift eye? if so im going to get rid of it too!!!

[Bigron]

Stupid suggestion? If your bo;t proves to be ok, couldn't you put a chamfer on the end of the thread and clean it afterwards (put a nut on first, taper the end and then remove the nut), so that when you offer the bolt up for fitting it finds its own way home?

Ron.

[Bigron]

bo;t = bolt
I'm a bloke, so I can;t type!

Ron.

[Bigron]

Must be my keyboard that can't spell?

Ron.

[Webby the Bear]

 

Thanks BR

When you say chamfer..... you mean taper it? (sorry not up with the lingo )

[Nick W]

The best way of doing it is to turn a short,straight length on the end of the bolt down to the thread minor diameter. This makes it easy to get the bolt straight in the hole before the threads engage. It does require a reasonably long female thread,  and that might not be long enough in this case.

[Webby the Bear]

The best way of doing it is to turn a short,straight length on the end of the bolt down to the thread minor diameter. This makes it easy to get the bolt straight in the hole before the threads engage. It does require a reasonably long female thread,  and that might not be long enough in this case.

Ok, i apologise for being a reet dummy but i dont know what that means lol soz nick

[Nick W]

Try this: get an M8 bolt, and stand it on its head with the threads facing up. Now stack a short piece of 6mm rod on the end. That rod will hold the bolt straight in the hole, and enable you to start the thread easily. Please note, the 6mm is approximate, the actual diameter should be calculated/looked up, and actually be part of the bolt. Easy job for a lathe.

[Webby the Bear]

PS will this stuff be ok to smear on the stat housing.....

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/car-tape-glue-velcro/granville-silicone-sealant-clear-40g#tab3

[amba]

I found the biggest problem getting all the bits lined up was the thickness of the lifting eye as the hole was almost dead bolt diameter and left no room for error.

Quick simple solution was to run a 10mm drill through the lifting eye making that hole have much more tolerance to getting things lined up.It then took only a few minutes to put all back and tightened up nicely.Not sure what effect leaving the lifting eye out of the puzzle would have as it in effect increases the bolts length of travel into the head,but doudt very few of us will ever be relying on engine lifting eyes to remove 12 + year old engines out of 12 + year old cars

I used GM oil cooler plate grey sealant on my old 2.5,s thermostat housing and that never leaked,although only the correct 0 ring was fitted on my current 3.2 and that is bone dry also.

Pull it apart and see if the bolt tightens up without anything in place first then go from there.As for the leak it just needs a methodical strip down to investigate which bit isn,t sealing correctly.