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[petec]

I have been having problems with aircon for a while now. Regas last year only lasted 4 weeks, pressure test showed slow leak but there was no dye in system and hard to pin down. The condenser was in a pretty sorry state, cooling fins were dropping out and was sagging badly so I changed it and the condenser. Very helpful local specialist pressure tested system and all seemed well so recharged , plenty of dye and freezy again...for about 4 weeks .

This is where I would like a bit of advice guidance please.
I suspect there are 2 separate leaks, both look pretty awkward to get at so an idea of how much stripping out is necessary to fix.

There is a lot of dye along passenger side chassis rail along the route of the high pressure pipe from the condenser back toward the accumulator in the cabin, its difficult to see where the leak is as the dye has soaked into the cotton wrapping on the adjacent wiring loom for about 50cms along the pipe but the dye is not coming from the connection block with the condenser, its somewhere along the pipe, possibly where the flexible section is below the battery. The question is, how difficult is it to get this pipe out as it is pretty well tucked away under misc hoses, the power steering reservoir and ABS unit.
I am thinking I probably need to take out the radiator to get to the connection block at the front and access at the rear seems ok from underneath but has anyone had to change this pipe how awkward is it and is this a known weak point?

The second apparent leak seems to be from the connection plate above the compressor. Dye appears to be coming out between the plate and the top of the compressor and running down the back of the compressor. I am guessing the seals (dowty washers?)have given up so the question here is ..is it possible to replace these seals without removing the compressor. The mtce guide is very handy with pics of the seals but its nor clear whether there is sufficient space to unbolt the connection plate and lift it enough to replace the seals without dropping the compressor.. advice please.

Any assistance welcome

[LC0112G]

is it possible to replace these seals without removing the compressor. The mtce guide is very handy with pics of the seals but its nor clear whether there is sufficient space to unbolt the connection plate and lift it enough to replace the seals without dropping the compressor.. advice please.

Any assistance welcome

On an X30XE....

Yes - it is. It's fiddly and tight but I found it easier to replace the compressor with the pipework off than to pre-connect the pipework and try and slide the compressor back in.

Undo the bolt on the pipework fixing from the top - a long extension down past the battery tray and dip stick. Then from underneath lift up the pipework off the compressor. The seals may either stay put on the compressor (if completely shagged), or be stuck to the pipework (if not completely shagged).

However, I think I would be more comfortable if the compressor were then removed. This will give you the chance to clean up the mating faces on the pipework and compressor join. It faces upwards when mounted on the car so will collect a lot of road debris which could enter the compressor as you try to change the seals. Would probably add about an hour to the job, and a lot of cursing getting it back in but at least it would be done properly.

[TheBoy]

The pipe running along the passenger chassis leg is a common one to go pourous. Its not the easiest to replace, but "doable"

[Shackeng]

is it possible to replace these seals without removing the compressor. The mtce guide is very handy with pics of the seals but its nor clear whether there is sufficient space to unbolt the connection plate and lift it enough to replace the seals without dropping the compressor.. advice please.

Any assistance welcome

On an X30XE....

Yes - it is. It's fiddly and tight but I found it easier to replace the compressor with the pipework off than to pre-connect the pipework and try and slide the compressor back in.

Undo the bolt on the pipework fixing from the top - a long extension down past the battery tray and dip stick. Then from underneath lift up the pipework off the compressor. The seals may either stay put on the compressor (if completely shagged), or be stuck to the pipework (if not completely shagged).

However, I think I would be more comfortable if the compressor were then removed. This will give you the chance to clean up the mating faces on the pipework and compressor join. It faces upwards when mounted on the car so will collect a lot of road debris which could enter the compressor as you try to change the seals. Would probably add about an hour to the job, and a lot of cursing getting it back in but at least it would be done properly.

Strange, as i found it relatively easy to remove it with the pipes attached, then disconnect the pipes. BUT, I removed the bagpipes first to improve access.

[petec]

The pipe running along the passenger chassis leg is a common one to go pourous. Its not the easiest to replace, but "doable"

that's encouraging, on 2.6 v6, what needs to come out in order to remove it and is it best to pull it back towards scuttle or forwards and out from underneath?.

 Will take bagpipes off anyway and remove compressor so I can clean mating surfaces as has been suggested as its a good point about crap around the joint on top.
I would like to get pipe along chassis leg out without trashing it further as local air con guy reckons he can rebuild pipe for less than cost of replacement (hes got flexi hose, crimps tube etc). Not a good time of year to play with aircon...outside in the cold and dark but don't fancy another winter of steamed up windows .