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[Webby the Bear]

I've been umming and arring over posting this thread cos I know that the general (quite rightly so in most cases) consensus is that additives are either a waste of time or they actually cause issues (crud being dislodged and ending up blocking the strainer is a story I've heard more than once!).

However there are a couple of products I wondered what the thought was...

1. Rislone Compression Repair. This stuff floats around the engine until it reaches the hotter temps of the cylinder walls where it then helps to fill gaps or scratches in the cylinder wall and improve compression.

2. Lucas oil stabiliser. Never heard of this stuff until one of the lads at the garage added it in with an oil change (cant remember what the complaint was). but it literally was sticky somewhere between honey and chewing gum!!!!!! lol

So any experience of these?

my initial thoughts are they may work in certain scenarios but if you got low compression sort the root cause. or am I wrong? would chucking some in the omega up the compression a tad and increase performance (all my cylinders are bang on as per a compression test last year....this is just an ''out of interest'' thread)

[4x4]

If compression is ok leave alone,if it was poor,it would be wise to find out why tho,not keen on these additives 

[Webby the Bear]

Yeah pretty much what I thought Martin. But worth asking.

The Lucas stuff was unbelievably sticky..... it took 5 minutes to get it out the bottle and down he filler tube! 

[Nick W]

Snake oil. Leave well alone. Don't use flushing oil either.
The best thing for oil is to change it and the filter before they get dirty. With a couple of changes under your belt you'll know when that is. I'm doing annual changes on mine at about 10,000 miles; the oil is still mostly the same colour as when it went in, so I could probably leave that a bit longer. But at a cost of £1 for a filter, I'm not going to.


This advice doesn't apply to diesels though; 5000 miles would be a lot for me if I were crazy enough to own one.

[andyc]

I use the Lucas stuff when i re build and engine. I poor a little into a very clean pot and use a new clean soft artist paint brush to apply it to main and big end caps etc, work great as it sticks like S*** to a blanket

Andy

[Webby the Bear]

So no harm in adding a little bit with next oil change?

[Steve B]

Snake oil. Leave well alone. Don't use flushing oil either.
The best thing for oil is to change it and the filter before they get dirty. With a couple of changes under your belt you'll know when that is. I'm doing annual changes on mine at about 10,000 miles; the oil is still mostly the same colour as when it went in, so I could probably leave that a bit longer. But at a cost of £1 for a filter, I'm not going to.


This advice doesn't apply to diesels though; 5000 miles would be a lot for me if I were crazy enough to own one.

That seems a lot...thought it was 4 000 area 

[Nick W]

Snake oil. Leave well alone. Don't use flushing oil either.
The best thing for oil is to change it and the filter before they get dirty. With a couple of changes under your belt you'll know when that is. I'm doing annual changes on mine at about 10,000 miles; the oil is still mostly the same colour as when it went in, so I could probably leave that a bit longer. But at a cost of £1 for a filter, I'm not going to.


This advice doesn't apply to diesels though; 5000 miles would be a lot for me if I were crazy enough to own one.

That seems a lot...thought it was 4 000 area 

The reason for changing the oil is because it gets dirty. If it isn't dirty then changing it is simply extravagant. I have better things to do with the time/money/oil.


I'm  surprised with the insistence on tiny-mileage oil changes here, that no-one has had their oil analysed.

[Webby the Bear]

. . . Just to add to that if your oils getting dirty and black quickly that would suggest a lot of blowby and thus a compression test in order?

[Marks DTM Calib]

So no harm in adding a little bit with next oil change?

Its one thing applying it to new engine parts on a rebuild to stop them running without oil (only ever used it on new cams personally, I just use plenty of oil on bearings and where possible, prime the oil system by pumping oil in with a can at a convenient point e.g. cam bearing caps).

Ask yourself a question, can you see a liquid chemical repairing a worn piece of metal which is exposed to movement plus elevated temperature and pressures...?

[Bigron]

A very experienced fleet manager once explained the oil situation thus:-
Oil itself never wears out, but motor oil is loaded with detergents and other additives, which do. The oil then does not do its job properly and the engine will gum up and/or wear rapidly. He advocated an oil change interval of no more than 5,000 miles - and that from a cost-concious fleet manager!
Makes sense to me.....

Ron.

[Webby the Bear]

You're right, mark. In that I agree there is no repair to be had from adding an additive.

Thinking about it though I could see this stuff helping to not make any potential problems worse. IMO

[Marks DTM Calib]

A very experienced fleet manager once explained the oil situation thus:-
Oil itself never wears out, but motor oil is loaded with detergents and other additives, which do. The oil then does not do its job properly and the engine will gum up and/or wear rapidly. He advocated an oil change interval of no more than 5,000 miles - and that from a cost-concious fleet manager!
Makes sense to me.....

Ron.

Which just shows he knew very little about oil as the long chain oil molecules suffer from sheer which reduces their lubrication properties (and increase their volume.....have a look at the oil level in an older diff or gearbox)

[Marks DTM Calib]

You're right, mark. In that I agree there is no repair to be had from adding an additive.

Thinking about it though I could see this stuff helping to not make any potential problems worse. IMO

Er no, good oil changed regularly will do just the same.

The only thing the thick gloop might do is get you temporarily through an emissions test when you have goosed rings/bores

[Sir Tigger KC]

You're right, mark. In that I agree there is no repair to be had from adding an additive.

Thinking about it though I could see this stuff helping to not make any potential problems worse. IMO

Er no, good oil changed regularly will do just the same.

The only thing the thick gloop might do is get you temporarily through an emissions test when you have goosed rings/bores

It'd be cheaper to chuck some gear oil in....