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[horsecow]

Okay so I've got new cam belt kit fitted, new aux belt and tensioner,  new coil packs and plugs and everything is back where it should be. On turning the key however she doesn't want to start. It's turning over fine but not catching! I've checked every thing again and I can't for the life of me see anything that's not where it should be. I swapped out the crank sensor for the one from my 2.6 which I know is good and it makes no difference. On doing the pedal trick all I'm getting is a continuous flashing spanner light. I know the fuel is getting though the only thing I haven't checked is whether there is a spark but with new coil packs and plugs I'm pretty sure they are okay.

Could it be an immobiliser/key problem. The key I have for the car is very worn and sticks sometimes in the ignition and the buttons don't look like they have worked for yrs. Would the enine turn over but not engage if it was the key/immobiliser and how do I rectify this?

[minifreek]

The continuous flashing spanner/EML light does usually mean that the immobiliser is working and stopping the engine from firing...

Take the key apart and take a look inside the horseshoe to see if the little chip is there... that would be first thing to do...

[horsecow]

Will do. Must add that the light only flashes continuous when I try to do the pedal trick.

[minifreek]

Ah now you see thats different to what you said....

If its flasshing with the pedal trick, then it could be trying to tell you whats wrong...

But it does sound like immobiliser, especially if its flashing whilst cranking the engine over...

[horsecow]

The chip is there alright but the buttons don't work at all even with a known good battery. Going to leave it in today to get repaired if possible and will have to price a new key 

[minifreek]

When you say the button don't work.... is it the key doesn't light up....? or its not locking/unlocking the car....?

[horsecow]

When in press the buttons nothing happens at all even when I put in a known good battery.

[Lazydocker]

When in press the buttons nothing happens at all even when I put in a known good battery.

Ignore that for a minute as the buttons only operate the locking/alarm and have no impact on starting. If the immobiliser chip is in the key then you need to start with the basics and work through. IIRC there are 2 identical plugs that can be switched by accident... I want to sat cam sensor and something

[horsecow]

When in press the buttons nothing happens at all even when I put in a known good battery.

Ignore that for a minute as the buttons only operate the locking/alarm and have no impact on starting. If the immobiliser chip is in the key then you need to start with the basics and work through. IIRC there are 2 identical plugs that can be switched by accident... I want to sat cam sensor and something

Must look into that this evening when I get home. I've just bought 2 of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172210435796 they'll be needed to fix the key fob anyway and the fob on my 2.6 is on the way out as well so won't be wasted

[Kevin Wood]

Ah now you see thats different to what you said....

If its flasshing with the pedal trick, then it could be trying to tell you whats wrong...

But it does sound like immobiliser, especially if its flashing whilst cranking the engine over...

Constant flashing when you do the pedal trick means there are no codes stored.

[Kevin Wood]

If it's an immobiliser problem, it will fire and then stop. Also, the EML on the left hand side of the dash (NOT the emissions warning light) will flash.

The central locking function of the key is completely separate from the immobiliser so the operation or otherwise of the central locking from the key fob won't prove anything.

Canister purge valve, coolant temperature sensor and rear multiram valve are connectors than can easily be swapped accidentally.

Another popular one is pinching the 1,3,5 bank knock sensor wire under the aux. belt tensioner bracket. This can short out the 5v supply to all the engine sensors and would certainly stop it dead.

[horsecow]

Okay guys been out this evening and checked all connections to ensure they are connected the same as the 2.6. Everything is connected as it should be and I even got the wife to try starting the car while I moved the connections around in case there was a loose wire but still no joy.  Took a careful look at the knock sensor on 135 bank and it's also fine. Engine is turning over but failing to catch. Any other ideas guys?

[Lazydocker]

Okay guys been out this evening and checked all connections to ensure they are connected the same as the 2.6. Everything is connected as it should be and I even got the wife to try starting the car while I moved the connections around in case there was a loose wire but still no joy.  Took a careful look at the knock sensor on 135 bank and it's also fine. Engine is turning over but failing to catch. Any other ideas guys?

Sorry to say it... Back to basics. Fuel, spark, etc... Check and recheck everything

[horsecow]

Update!!

Haven't had time to look at the motor for past few weeks so left it with local mechanic today who did a pressure test and tells me there is no compression which likely means bent valves and I now need new heads.  I read somewhere that 3.0  heads will work on 3.2 but which is best and what are the advantages/disadvantages. Car was bought as a project anyway so it's just turning into a bigger project than what I had hoped. Also is there anything else I need to do once I'm in that far??

[Diamond Black Geezer]

I think the advice you'll get will be for the time and money an entire engine swap will most likely be your best option - unless you actually want to start replacing bits of the engine extensively and do some 'modding' with lighter flywheels, later manifolds, remapping etc that's probably going to be the easiest option, destructive and over-the-top though it sounds.