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[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Got a call from MrsGK earlier "the MV6 has pooed itself and now won't start. Battery isn't completely dead as hes turning over but not firing. No codes." (she's good, I must admit).

Finished work, popped up in her car, grabbed the keys, jumped in, after 5-6 seconds of turning over, engine started, mildly lumpy but nothing too rough. No codes at all. Back home*, 2 or so miles, no dramas.

Crank sensor?

*Being sensible/ selfish (delete as applicable) I've brought the MV6 home and left her car there. Am I danglybits going to get up and collect her at midnight...

[zirk]

I would say so, had it before on a 2.6, no codes, either peddle or reader, refuses to start, in my case started on the button next day.

Only to come back and haunt you again soon. 

[BazaJT]

Mine used to stall at times when warm[though not all the time]trying to restart it and it sounded just like battery was flat,leave it to cool down for a short while and it'd start and run fine until next time it happened.A new battery cured it.Must admit though first thought would be crank sensor.

[omega2018]

sounds like my crank sensor when it went.  with hindsight i had had a few fails to start on the first turn beforehand, maybe one in ten goes, just enough to notice.  since the new sensor i haven't, always starts first go touch wood

code did show up on pedal trick afterwards but never on code reader. however the reader's  'clear codes' option worked, very odd. 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Bugger! Just the wrong time to do it!

I'll see if the new battery fixes things first... whats the damage for a new GM sensor these days?

[Mr.OmegaMan]

Bugger! Just the wrong time to do it!

I'll see if the new battery fixes things first... whats the damage for a new GM sensor these days?

Paid £56 on TC for a 3.2 crank sensor, around £75 without TC.

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Bugger! Just the wrong time to do it!

I'll see if the new battery fixes things first... whats the damage for a new GM sensor these days?

Paid £56 on TC for a 3.2 crank sensor, around £75 without TC.

Thats not too bad then, ta chap!

[BazaJT]

I paid £66 for one for my 3.0L a few months ago.

[omega2018]

paid £28 for a new delphi one off ebay search for 391253799106.  seems fine so far, looked well made, rubber boot seal on top end of the heat protector to stop water getting in, nice hologram on the box

[05omegav6]

paid £28 for a new delphi one off ebay search for 391253799106.  seems fine so far, looked well made, rubber boot seal on top end of the heat protector to stop water getting in, nice hologram on the box

You'll be changing that again soon

[aaronjb]

sounds like my crank sensor when it went.  with hindsight i had had a few fails to start on the first turn beforehand, maybe one in ten goes, just enough to notice.

Same as me when my time came - no codes in my case, though, on either pedal trick or code reader.  'course it failed while parked hard against the fence so I had to push it uphill to get to the sensor 

[omega2018]

paid £28 for a new delphi one off ebay search for 391253799106.  seems fine so far, looked well made, rubber boot seal on top end of the heat protector to stop water getting in, nice hologram on the box

You'll be changing that again soon

have you had any actual experience of a delphi sensor or is that just the usual  bllx fud often talked on here i wonder (feel free to make something up, also happens).  delphi was set up by gm no less, many of the original parts on the mig will be delphi.

[05omegav6]

paid £28 for a new delphi one off ebay search for 391253799106.  seems fine so far, looked well made, rubber boot seal on top end of the heat protector to stop water getting in, nice hologram on the box

You'll be changing that again soon

have you had any actual experience of a delphi sensor or is that just the usual  bllx fud often talked on here i wonder (feel free to make something up, also happens).  delphi was set up by gm no less, many of the original parts on the mig will be delphi.

Non genuine crank and cam sensors tend to fail in fairly short order. Cheaper to buy genuine once that to first pay for cheap rubbish for such items before then buying genuine.

Also just because Delphi might have made some factory Omega items, that doesn't include crank or cam sensors as these were made by Bosch...

ps what's bllx fud when it's at home?

[omega2018]

Non genuine crank and cam sensors tend to fail in fairly short order. Cheaper to buy genuine once that to first pay for cheap rubbish for such items before then buying genuine.

Also just because Delphi might have made some factory Omega items, that doesn't include crank or cam sensors as these were made by Bosch...

ps what's bllx fud when it's at home?

ok so no experience of delphi sensors then . 

it's not non genuine, it is a genuine delphi part

a crank sensor is not a complicated piece of kit.  its just a transducer, no moving parts.  any reputable manufacturer should be able to make a reliable one.   

having said that the original bosch brand ones seem to be one of the most unreliable OE parts of the mig, 90% of my mig outlasted the bosch crank sensor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fear,_uncertainty_and_doubt

[05omegav6]

So millions of miles of forum experience is wrong because your non genuine, ie non Bosch, sensor has lasted more than five minutes...

Stop arguing for the hell of it. It achieves nowt.