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[Pirvan]

Hey guys!

I've got a yr. 2000 2.5 V6 petrol Omega (Sedan version).

The temperature is erratic (going between 85-100 degrees) and suddenly the heat in the car is luke-warm at best, but still functioning. I have an idea at the cause but would like some advice.

- The resent history was first a broken fan-belt about a month ago, which I got changed
- Then a month later (last week) the new fan-belt jumped off and it was shown that the waterpump had died, which was probable cause for the first fan-belt breaking.
- Now the water-pump has been replaced and the following symptoms are there:
  - The 'check coolant level' light comes on when the car starts and is turned off.
  - The heat doesn't really come on too much in the car
  - Temperature fluctuates between 85-100 when driving

Other information:
- I know both blue and red coolant has been filled in the coolant tank over time and thus there's some sediment in there. For a few years, it's only been red tho.
- The coolant container is completely topped off.

My best guess:
I imagine the coolant system needs to be flushed out but I don't know for sure. Before the waterpump broke, heat worked just fine and temperature was just fine too. I wonder if the garage somehow did something wrong with the waterpump or what the issue is? what do you guys think?

Thank you again so much in advance.

[Andy B]

have you not simply got an air lock?

[Pirvan]

I don't know if I do. I know the coolant liquid looks a bit muddy but otherwise seems okay. If it's an air lock, how do I alleviate that?

[Andy B]

I don't know if I do. I know the coolant liquid looks a bit muddy but otherwise seems okay. If it's an air lock, how do I alleviate that?

Take the header cap & 'burp' the larger hoses at the radaitor to move coolant. Start the car & allow it to slowly get warm ....... don't let it get hot otherwise the coolant will overflow from the header tank. Using a flush though is never a bad idea.

[Pirvan]

I'll try and do that. I found this post with a bit more comprehensive guide (I'm a bit of a noob) and will try that out.

1) To remove an air lock, it is only necessary to remove the cap whilst the engine is warming up & 'burping' the radiator hoses by giving them a good squeeze occassionally. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature you will feel the top radiator hose become quickly hot as the thermostat opens, when this happens give the hoses a final 'burp' & replace the expansion cap. By & large, the system is self bleeding and after the initial 'burping' you should not need to do it again unless there is significant coolant loss.


I assume this would take care of both issues, really? If it's not that, flushing the system? Can I flush it without having to hoist it up or any such thing? I tried finding the valve on the driver's side but couldn't see it from the top-side. Just curious.

[Andy B]

I'll try and do that. I found this post with a bit more comprehensive guide (I'm a bit of a noob) and will try that out.

1) To remove an air lock, it is only necessary to remove the cap whilst the engine is warming up & 'burping' the radiator hoses by giving them a good squeeze occassionally. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature you will feel the top radiator hose become quickly hot as the thermostat opens, when this happens give the hoses a final 'burp' & replace the expansion cap. By & large, the system is self bleeding and after the initial 'burping' you should not need to do it again unless there is significant coolant loss.


I assume this would take care of both issues, really? If it's not that, flushing the system? Can I flush it without having to hoist it up or any such thing? I tried finding the valve on the driver's side but couldn't see it from the top-side. Just curious.

two seperate problems really. The drain valve is usually a red valve on the very bottom of the radiator.

[Pirvan]

I haven't been able to see it, so it probably has to be accessed from under the car.

Beyond that, I imagine the coolant system being flushed might help more efficiently cooling the engine, while the air lock fixing is hopefully enough to fix the heating issue in the car.

Yes?

[Andy B]

I haven't been able to see it, so it probably has to be accessed from under the car.

Yes, but you only need to stick your head under the corner of the car to see it ...... you don't have to have the car up in the air to reach it (obviously it'd be far easier if you did  )

Beyond that, I imagine the coolant system being flushed might help more efficiently cooling the engine, while the air lock fixing is hopefully enough to fix the heating issue in the car.

Yes?

Yes  While re-filling the coolant, just fill it slowly and you shouldn't have any problems. 
bear in mind, that even when you find the drain tap, you'll only empty about half the sysyem, so you'll have to fill & drain a good few times to dilute what's already in there.

[Pirvan]

Awesome! One last thing. Since the waterpump was just replaced, I had this assumption that all the coolant would be removed/replaced in the process but it certainly doesn't seem like it did. Given that all the coolant stayed in, I assume the best thing to do is vent (anti- air-lock) and flush the system. Was thinking of using this guide:  http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90625.0

[Andy B]

Awesome! One last thing. Since the waterpump was just replaced, I had this assumption that all the coolant would be removed/replaced in the process but it certainly doesn't seem like it did. Given that all the coolant stayed in, I assume the best thing to do is vent (anti- air-lock) and flush the system. Was thinking of using this guide:  http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90625.0

Been out so only just seen this ......

Yes, Tunnies guide is all you need to do. Removingthe water pump will allow more coolant to drain than it would by opening the drain tap of the radiator.

The red drain tap can be seen in the 3rd picture down