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[biggriffin]

Just put the hub nut on, large block of wood, and big stick(hammer), good whack flange comes out, with the race on, cut race off with angle grinder. Flange is out, remove circlip, then remove bearing.

Top tip. Place new bearing in freezer, for 24/48 hrs.

[Nick W]

Just put the hub nut on, large block of wood, and big stick(hammer), good whack flange comes out, with the race on, cut race off with angle grinder. Flange is out, remove circlip, then remove bearing.

Top tip. Place new bearing in freezer, for 24/48 hrs.

If you do this, you must hit it hard enough to drive the flange most of the way through the bearing. Use a big hammer. Otherwise you'll get it cocked in there, which will make things really interesting. It's why I don't use the wheelbolt method to draw it out.

[biggriffin]

Just put the hub nut on, large block of wood, and big stick(hammer), good whack flange comes out, with the race on, cut race off with angle grinder. Flange is out, remove circlip, then remove bearing.

Top tip. Place new bearing in freezer, for 24/48 hrs.

If you do this, you must hit it hard enough to drive the flange most of the way through the bearing. Use a big hammer. Otherwise you'll get it cocked in there, which will make things really interesting. It's why I don't use the wheelbolt method to draw it out.

Use old head bolts.

[berserkerboy]

Not moving with the big hammer. Can't get enough swing on it. Looking at bolts that hold on brake backing plate. Never seen that type of drive before. Anyone know what it is and size I need? My torx T50 fits in but suspect too loose to undo. Will put bearing in the freezer, thanks for the tip biggriffin.

[Nick W]

Not moving with the big hammer. Can't get enough swing on it. Looking at bolts that hold on brake backing plate. Never seen that type of drive before. Anyone know what it is and size I need? My torx T50 fits in but suspect too loose to undo. Will put bearing in the freezer, thanks for the tip biggriffin.

They are spline drive, either M8 or M10. Don't use torx or Allen bits as you will round them out. No, I have no idea why they used spline drive bolts here, as they are the only ones that I have come across on the car.

If you freeze the bearing, and hit it hard enough(on the outside race) you might not need a tool to fit it.

[berserkerboy]

Cheers Nick. Will look on the bay if I need to. Tried hitting again and think I may have a bit of movement. If it looks like it's skewing will use your method.

[berserkerboy]

Hurrah!! Hob off. Didn't want to wait for spline tools. Used a mixture of jacking using the wheel nuts and whacking as suggested above. Could see there was some movement and eventually was able to slide some angle iron between hub and housing and really got some movement using the 5 wheel nuts to jack out. Can see how easy this would have been with the correct tools but I had to make do with what I had.

So next job, after a well earned cup of tea! Getting that big circlip out. Looks fairly well set in. Any tips folks?

[05omegav6]

Stout circlip pliers...

[Nick W]

Stout circlip pliers...

And a screwdriver around the edge to pry it out. It will be a very tight fit, as it's probably been there 15 years

[berserkerboy]

As I feared then

[berserkerboy]

Oh! That was easier than I thought it would be: Spray with release fluid. Sharp 6in nail. Put in circlip hole and bash as if you were trying to close it. Do the other one. The circlip started to spin round. Use the sharp nail in circlip hole to lever up one end enough to get a small screwdriver into the recess under clip. Turning the screwdriver lifts the clip enough to get a bigger screwdriver underneath a bit further along. Use a hammer to move this screwdiver along the circlip circumference until you are about half way around effectively compressing the clip and leave in place. Use another big screwdiver at the end you started to bend the circlip out. Use the two screwdrivers to remove the circlip by levering out.

Bearing removal tool time. Never used these before so need to work out the method.

[berserkerboy]

Damn! Bearing removal tool uses 32mm and 26mm socket. Haven't got the 26mm so will have to source one.

In the meantime I've cut off the inner race that was stuck on the hub. This is a bit tricky and I have unfortunately made a little scoreline on the hub where the new bearing will push on. Am hoping this will be okay. The inner race split quite easily with a cold chisel. I could probably have not tried to get so far through the race which led to the damage. Probably best to make a cut big enough to try the chisel and then cut more until it goes. Live and learn I guess.

[Nick W]

Damn! Bearing removal tool uses 32mm and 26mm socket. Haven't got the 26mm so will have to source one.

In the meantime I've cut off the inner race that was stuck on the hub. This is a bit tricky and I have unfortunately made a little scoreline on the hub where the new bearing will push on. Am hoping this will be okay. The inner race split quite easily with a cold chisel. I could probably have not tried to get so far through the race which led to the damage. Probably best to make a cut big enough to try the chisel and then cut more until it goes. Live and learn I guess.

File and polish the burr of the edges of the cut and stop worrying. I cut all the way through the race on mine, so it has a bit more than a scoreline!


If you removed the brake backing plate to get this far, your next job is to refit it and assemble the handbrake mechanism. You do NOT want to fit the hub and find these parts on the bench

[berserkerboy]

Cheers Nick. Glad there is no problem there. I didn't think so but reckon I could have got it off with no marks if I'd thought more about it. Thanks for the tip about the handbrake mechanism. Didn't take the back plate off but can see that it will be much easier to reassemble before I put the hub back in.
Got to wait for the 26mm socket but feel I've broken the back of this...Famous last words!!

[berserkerboy]

LOL! Famous last words indeed!

Got the 26mm socket in the post today and proceeded to tighten up the bearing removal tool. OMG I have put so much pressure on this that I can't believe the bearing hasn't budged. Used a breaker bar and a length of pipe and am worried now that I'll break the breaker bar if I try to tighten any further. Also the pipe bit that rests against the outer part of the housing looks like it might slip to one side. I'm using #06 insert as this seemed a nice fit in the outer part of the housing. It seemed to fit okay at the back of the housing as well with just a mil or so movement around the edge. I hope I am right here?

Even used my blow torch to heat the outer part of the housing whilst the tool was under pressure reasoning that the expansion would put even more pressure on the bearing, but no joy.

Wondering where to go with this now.