Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[biggriffin]

My only grumble about Mintex is from a fitting point of view. As I fit many brakes to many different cars it seems that Mintex add too thick a coat of paint to the tops and bottoms and they are difficult to get in place.

And before some keyboard warrior goes off on one, yes I do clean up / remove the rust on the carrier and irrespective of this they are hard to get in side to side as well as up and down. Take this extra layer of paint off with the bench grinder and it's all good. But a ball ache.

In the olden days we use to file the edges of the pads.
Allowed pad to fit better, and also prevented,pads from seizing in caliper. Smear of copperslip too.

[DrAndyB]

Thanks to all for comments and advice.  Much appreciated. 

After deliberations, I have now ordered a "Brake Set" from Vauxhall    The reason was the set comes with GM Pads and Discs (is cheaper than combined price !!!), and for not much more than a full set of Pagid, mintex or others.  Also I plan to keep the car and don't to do that many miles so may as well treat the old girl 

Will check as mentioned make sure all is moving freely, so will clean up, spray and lube up all bits which need it.

Any recommendations on grease for that ?  I have some "TF2 Grease with Teflon" (red stuff in green TF2 tube which I use on my bikes), which claims Surface temperature from -30 to +130°C.   , or are then any particular flavours of preference ?  I also have copper grease for back of pads (remembering to to put on the correct side of pad 

Thanks again.
Andy.

[DrAndyB]

In the olden days we use to file the edges of the pads.
Allowed pad to fit better, and also prevented,pads from seizing in caliper. Smear of copperslip too.

  Daz taught me the file edge off pad trick 

Will do it the new ones 

[johnnydog]

I'm surprised at that - I've fitted Mintex to many cars over the years, not only Vauxhalls, but Audi's, Fords, Peugeots, Hondas, and list goes on. Not had an issue with the fitting of any them due to the thickness of the paint on the edge of the backing pads. I did have this issue on a 'never heard of before make' many years ago, and I never used them since, but never with Mintex.

As regards copper slip on the back of the pads, yes, I've done it as no doubt many have, but there are some that don't advocate using it. I tend to use brake pad grease / lube which is easily obtainable from motor factors - in fact Mintex as most brake manufacturers do their own. Specifically made for the job......

[Webby the Bear]

Guy at work swears by 'Ceratec' and the like.

Me personally I go for copper anti seize on the corners of the pads and silicone paste for the slide pins 

[TheBoy]

*IF* you want to use a copper grease (and personally I do), FFS make sure you use the Molyslip stuff.  The utter shite that people pass off as copper grease that isn't made by Molyslip will wash away at the first puddle.

[DrAndyB]

*IF* you want to use a copper grease (and personally I do), FFS make sure you use the Molyslip stuff.  The utter shite that people pass off as copper grease that isn't made by Molyslip will wash away at the first puddle.

I don't take her out in the rain   

I have some 'Commer' brand Copper grease, but if that's not considered to 'cut the mustard' then I shall see if I can get some Molyslip stuff.

I noticed some other grease was suggested for the sliders/pins.  Any make/type recommended for that job ? as I have a small selection of lithium (white) or teflon (red) stuff

[TheBoy]

Anything but the "proper" (Molyslip) is only any good for landfill.

For the pins, I'd suggest a high temp grease like Castrol LM...

[DrAndyB]

Picked up a LARGE (and heavy) box with the GM brake kit in today, and I got all recommended lubes 

HOWEVER, F/NS wheel definitely hot when I got home.   

Any advice or additional bits (or kits) maybe worth getting before I start ?

Cheers.
Andy.

[05omegav6]

Wheel bearing?

[DrAndyB]

Wheel bearing?

Car only done 60k miles, and had her from new so I know original. 

Would low mileage still indicate bearing issue ? No particular noises or indications through steering.

Will make sure sliders are all free and lubed up and go from there I guess.

[johnnydog]

I'd put my money on a slightly binding brake on the affected side - likely to be caused by the slider pins seized as outlined in this topic earlier.
No cost outlay, except maybe for the rubber gaiters if split.

[DrAndyB]

I'd put my money on a slightly binding brake on the affected side - likely to be caused by the slider pins seized as outlined in this topic earlier.
No cost outlay, except maybe for the rubber gaiters if split.

Was what I was suspecting (especially as I noticed when I parked in the car park at work I normally roll back last bit into space, and she didn't do it today so certainly indicative of slightly binding brake.)  Will hopefully investigate over weekend.  I shall report back findings 

Are the gaiters easy to change and are they available at Dealers ?

Thanks again all for help and advice

[dbug]

I'd put my money on a slightly binding brake on the affected side - likely to be caused by the slider pins seized as outlined in this topic earlier.
No cost outlay, except maybe for the rubber gaiters if split.

Was what I was suspecting (especially as I noticed when I parked in the car park at work I normally roll back last bit into space, and she didn't do it today so certainly indicative of slightly binding brake.)  Will hopefully investigate over weekend.  I shall report back findings 

Are the gaiters easy to change and are they available at Dealers ?

Thanks again all for help and advice

Very unlikely to be a wheel bearing as you would certainly "feel" it on spinning wheel if it was getting that hot.  As said more likely a brake binding (probably a seized/stiff slider)

In answer to your questions - yes and yes

HTH

[Diamond Black Geezer]

I stripped down my calipers to the bare metal, replaced seals, boots, sliders and repainted. Not necessarily suggesting you do the same (though certainly won't hurt) but as said above, if you split the caliper, remove the slider pins, check there's free movement of the 'moving bits' binding brake does sound like it. I'd be temped to say that if it's binding, that's down to some muck or corrosion getting into the piston itself.

If you're taking the discs off anyway, then caliper will be off too, perfect time to peel back the rubber boot/gaiter an look for any signs of rust. I've pumped out and pushed back the piston several times on calipers before (using a G clamp). You MUST MUST ensure the brake fluid reservoir cap is off, otherwise you can stuff the master cylinder seals.

If you need any more detailed info on the above, just ask