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[jb]

Key to free moving pads is  to
1. Clean the pad carriers with emery paper and then test fit the pads(sanding down the pad locator tabs of any excess paint if required) then lube up all contact points (carrier and pads)with ceratech brake lube ensuring that no excess comes in contact with disc.

2. Check that slider pins move freely and dismantle,clean and lube if req. never had to replace the rubber boots.

3. Check piston moving freely and rubber boot in place and undamaged. Use g lamp or piston retraction tool and often good to push back and pump out a couple of times.

Binding often due to build up of crud and rust in the area of carrier and pad tabs.

[Webby the Bear]

Completely agree with all of the post from JB

Of all the brake jobs I've done at work I've seen siezed slide pins maybe 3-4 times. Pads seized in to place is super common.

As you'll be fitting discs you'll have the carrier off and therefore real easy to get a wire brush in to all the nooks and crannies

[DrAndyB]

Are the slider pins easy to remove ?

If I was to take take them off then I may as well put a new set on was my thinking as they will be 16 years old 

Assume not that extortionate from the Stealer for a set ?

[Webby the Bear]

The slide pins will pull out. If they're seized get a pair of mole grips on the end and twist them out.

When you put your new ones in (or your freshly lubed old ones) push the slide pin in and then pinch the rubber boot with your fingers to expel any trapped air.

[Webby the Bear]

Ps as for replacement I wouldn't bother. They usually come up really nice with a good wire wheeling

[DrAndyB]

Ps as for replacement I wouldn't bother. They usually come up really nice with a good wire wheeling

  thanks. 

I have taken caliper off at last disc change ( several years ago now) so I am sure it will all come back 

Sounds easier than the rubbish sliders which used to sieze on my old Carlton Diplomat 

[Webby the Bear]

Ps as for replacement I wouldn't bother. They usually come up really nice with a good wire wheeling

  thanks. 

I have taken caliper off at last disc change ( several years ago now) so I am sure it will all come back 

Sounds easier than the rubbish sliders which used to sieze on my old Carlton Diplomat 

Just make sure you leave yourself a note on the steering wheel to pump the pedal if it's been a while. Guarantee you'll remember it as soon as you've reversed in to the house over the street 

And top off the fluid 

[DrAndyB]

Update.

Disks and and pads now changed 

The hot wheel was I believe a stiff piston on the calliper as it was hard to push back (sliders were all free, but I took out and greased and appeared like new  )

I have cleaned around the piston, and pushed seal back and cleaned outer of piston and it looked all clean, shiney and no corrosion. Worked piston back and forth about 20 times and it feels the same as the other side.  Not sure if this is prolonging the issue and that I need to replace  calliper ?  Can you get a piston service kit ?  Guess best to keep an eye on things and at slightest "warm wheel" replace calliper ?  Assume a pair of GM ones are not cheap 

Also noticed that the new GM pads came pre chamfered on the ends 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

seals/service kits are available, but you've most likely 'turned the clock back' on your calipers by quite a few years by that day's work.