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[berserkerboy]

I know I'm in good hands
Yep. System was fine for the first year I had the car and started playing up intermittently thereafter. Profess Autogas did not cure it and would not honour the warranty as they said it hadn't been serviced regularly which was a nonsense I couldn't be bothered to fight. Their last suggestion to cure the problem was to put in new injectors for over £300. I think not!

I think pressure is probably the issue. Looking at the online manual, the rapid green light flashing is a warning that there is no gas. The car was running for short periods of time on LPG but as soon as the RPM changed significantly the rapid blinking would start.

Looking forward to getting the USB extension cable so that I can get this resolved. 

[tigers_gonads]

Ref the low gas pressure warning

I'm pretty sure that during initial calibration (on lower software versions), it can give this warning and from what I remember of the instructions, it does say to ignore the initial warning and let it carry on with the calibration.
At the end of the day, it will trip out if it is too low.

As said above, when the car coolant is warmed through, check the lpg pressure.
It should be about 1.1 bar.
If your reducers a KME Gold which was doing the rounds when most members was fitting these kits, you will need a 4mm allan key or I use a 4mm Hex drive socket on the end of a small ratchet which helps you not burn your fingers on the pipes ect down there 
Just remember that if / when you do adjust it, do half a turn of the screw then blip the throttle and wait a few seconds for the pressure to stabilize before trying to adjust it again or you will be fannying around all day   

[Kevin Wood]

Ref the low gas pressure warning

I'm pretty sure that during initial calibration (on lower software versions), it can give this warning and from what I remember of the instructions, it does say to ignore the initial warning and let it carry on with the calibration.
At the end of the day, it will trip out if it is too low.

Exactly. The software has tight limits for gas pressure, injector size and so on. It will often be necessary to have some of these outside the limits of the auto calibration to get a system that works properly, in my experience, so you get a warning during calibration. It really depends on what the live readings are. If the LPG pressure is way outside sensible limits then clearly something is wrong. If not. it might be that whoever mapped it initially had to set it where it is for a good reason.

[berserkerboy]

Extension lead received and autocalibration run successfully. However, have a problem with my laptop battery so can't create the petrol and lpg maps at the moment. Typical! Looking on the net for a new laptop battery.
Incidently, the lpg pressure has been set to 1.5 bar by profess gas. Too high?

[Kevin Wood]

Had you been able to get in without losing the calibration settings you should have been able to see the pressure when it was last calibrated, so that would have shown you if it had moved.

I'd say 1.5 BAR is on the high side, but not ridiculous, and it also depends how large they have drilled out the injectors. I would see how you get on mapping it before changing anything at this stage.

I use a small inverter to power my laptop in the car. Much more convenient than relying on a battery and you could probably pick one up cheaper.

[tigers_gonads]

Extension lead received and autocalibration run successfully. However, have a problem with my laptop battery so can't create the petrol and lpg maps at the moment. Typical! Looking on the net for a new laptop battery.
Incidently, the lpg pressure has been set to 1.5 bar by profess gas. Too high?

Depends on the injectors i'd say but as kev said, it sounds a little high to me 

I tweaked mine on Monday evening before a trip to Nottingham and it was down to just under 1 bar with no running problems.
Adjusted it upto 1.1 bar were I normally have it but now it idles lick a sack of shite until its really warm so another job for the weekend for me 

[TheBoy]

I think Stag's guidance for initial setup is around 1.5bar, presumably with small nozzles.

On OOF, we've tended to go for a slightly lower pressure and slightly larger nozzles, I seem to recall especially for the Valteks.

[berserkerboy]

I've got an inverter but was concerned about connecting the laptop to it as I didn't think they were good for sensitive electronics. Still, it's an old laptop so maybe I'll give it a try with a surge protector as well.

[TheBoy]

I've got an inverter but was concerned about connecting the laptop to it as I didn't think they were good for sensitive electronics. Still, it's an old laptop so maybe I'll give it a try with a surge protector as well.

An inverter will be fine, might need to be a 300W one though, due to surge current of SMPS...

[Lazydocker]

I think Stag's guidance for initial setup is around 1.5bar, presumably with small nozzles.

On OOF, we've tended to go for a slightly lower pressure and slightly larger nozzles, I seem to recall especially for the Valteks.

Teilo suggested that the Valteks optimum pressure was about 1.1 Bar. Certainly over that and they become very, very noisy.

[tigers_gonads]

I've got an inverter but was concerned about connecting the laptop to it as I didn't think they were good for sensitive electronics. Still, it's an old laptop so maybe I'll give it a try with a surge protector as well.

An inverter will be fine, might need to be a 300W one though, due to surge current of SMPS...

Or if you fancy spending some pennies
Halfrauds do a 20 amp hour pack with a 300 watt invertor, electric tyre pump and LED light for about 50 quid trade 
Had one for a good 10 years and its great for stuff like this 

[berserkerboy]

I've got a new battery for the laptop on its way £20. My inverter is only 150w and as the laptop has further diagnostic software for the car I think it is worth having it mains free. Should be with me next week.

 

I think Stag's guidance for initial setup is around 1.5bar, presumably with small nozzles.

On OOF, we've tended to go for a slightly lower pressure and slightly larger nozzles, I seem to recall especially for the Valteks.

Teilo suggested that the Valteks optimum pressure was about 1.1 Bar. Certainly over that and they become very, very noisy.

My injectors do sound a bit tappety.

[berserkerboy]

Very frustrated.

Able to do auto calibration. However, when I try to get the maps the link between the laptop and gas ecu keeps getting interrupted after about 30 seconds and screen shows 'no connection'.

Not sure where the problem is. Either the diagnostic cable, a problem with the ecu or perhaps a problem with the laptop?

[berserkerboy]

Just a quick update on this issue. Been driving the car with it switching between gas and petrol for some time. Had to do a long journey the other day with the car in petrol. Horrible seeing the petrol guage dropping like a stone. I've checked all the electrical connections before with no improvement. I pushed them all together again. I also tapped the top of the gas pressure guage..........Car has been running in gas faultlessly for the last month. Guess the guage must have been sticking? Anyway, glad I haven't spent a fortune to resolve this. Glad I didn't replace the injectors as advised by Profess Gas!

[TheBoy]

The gauges are universally cheap and nasty, and shouldn't really be relied upon.  I work on the principle that I get 240 miles from my 66l if I've been on country roads, 300m if been on a good motorway run, 320m if she's been using it for work.