* What's first the tracking or the Camber adjustment
* Can I see the angles on the computer please before adjustment, can you explain what's what.
* Which side needs adjustment
* What bolts on the strut are you going to undo, top or bottom
* How are you going to do the bolts up? Haynes manual Stage 1/stage 2
*** I had to change a strut 6 months after an adjustment, and when I cam to undo the Strut bolts, they had not been done up properly. Enough to suggest that overtime the camber would move.*********
Any one know of the FREE CHECK garage before you decide to have the camber done - AREA M25 Junction 19 25mile Radius?
cheers for any suggestions welcome
Are you doing this because you've replaced wishbones? Or tie-rods and/or struts? Those require a much bigger adjustment, and will benefit from some basic setting up before you put the car on the machine.
Toe can be set to approximately parallel with a long straight-edge against the wheel's rim diameter and compared to the car's sill. This is surprisingly accurate.
Camber is measured directly off the wheel, but you do need some sort of apparatus to do it. That could be a plumb-bob, ruler and some maths, or a lot more sophisticated like this digital angle-gauge on a base:

I find that allows me to adjust the camber to 0.1degree with the car on its wheels. This is done by loosening both bolts, snugging the bottom one, and prying the wheel with a long lever until you get the required setting of 1
o10" There is several degrees of adjustment doing it like this.
Omega alignment isn't difficult, but it does require care, attention to detail, and the realisation that the
in the green specifications are much too loose.