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[Scatmancraig]

I need some batteries for the alarm / central locking remote for my 1997 Omega CDX. What is the correct type and how many? Can't tell if it needs one thicker one or two thinner ones on top of each other??

[Diamond Black Geezer]

CR2032 

bought mine of the eeeebay, duracell, very cheap. Pack of two, keep a second in the car as a spare at all times. (means unlocking the car to get to it, of course  )

[Jan Suhr]

Be careful when removing the old battery, the soldering for the battery holder can easily break.

Jan

[TheBoy]

And beware of egay batteries - they are cheap, but shite.  Not an issue, just you need to change them far more often than if you used quality sourced batteries.

Trouble is, buy a pack of 10, and they'll all be flat in a year or so, making it only worth buying a couple at a time...  ...and between them, they may last a year if you're lucky.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

To the OP, The Boy has expressed issue about ebay I'd second what he says, re: a pack of 10 etc.. much like anything, if you buy a pack of ten, unbranded, for a quid, well, don't expect much. You might come off very well, but might be a waste of your time.

As I said, bought mine, ebay duracells, with no issue, approaching a year daily use so far.

[TheBoy]

To give you some idea of how shite...   ...out little ol' Rover went to the Beanz Factory at 12yrs old, sporting the original fob batteries (and the original car battery for that matter ).

My original Omega key still works, despite having never had a battery in my ownership (13yrs), admittedly rarely used due to a split button.  The other keys used to eat cheap batteries in no time, with range being so poor, always had to use the key-to-chin method.  If I remember, when I'm over at big bro's, I can get him to pop new batteries in the fobs FoC, and as he used decent branded batteries from reputable sources, these last several years.

When I bought TBE of that pikey used car dealer, affectionately known on OOF as joshwyatt, I had to buy a 2nd key...  ...never opened the fob up on that one, so whatever GM supply in the fobs is good for at least 6 years.


So, just beware, a pack of 50 CR2032s for 99p is rarely the bargain it looks.  In fact given most OOFers seem to be so ham fisted that they break the battery holders every time they change the battery, it may well be an expensive battery .  Still, I make a tidy profit off repairing the bloody things, so I shouldn't grumble

[ronnyd]

I use Energizer batteries from my local Sainsburys and they have lasted the almost three years i have had the car.

[TheBoy]

I use Energizer batteries from my local Sainsburys and they have lasted the almost three years i have had the car.

Yes, I think the mainstream supermarkets will have a reputable supply chain

[Scatmancraig]

Well I've replaced the battery in the fob.  The buttons still work as the litte red and green LED's light up when you press them. But it doesn't lock or unlock the doors etc.

My problem is that a previous owner has disconnected the power sounder due to the alarm going off as soon as you open a door. In ny case there's no alarm, but the hazards flash until you turn the ignition on.  I'd quite like to have the remote locking working though, well that's if the fob buttons are for remote locking and alarm??

[TheBoy]

Did you resync fob after changing batts, as per user manual?

[Andy B]

Did you resync fob after changing batts, as per user manual?

Is that long for ....Please read the manual? 

[Andy B]

Well I've replaced the battery in the fob.  The buttons still work as the litte red and green LED's light up when you press them. But it doesn't lock or unlock the doors etc.

My problem is that a previous owner has disconnected the power sounder due to the alarm going off as soon as you open a door. In ny case there's no alarm, but the hazards flash until you turn the ignition on.  I'd quite like to have the remote locking working though, well that's if the fob buttons are for remote locking and alarm??

Key in ignition, ignition switched on, press lock (unlock ... one of them )  on button and that should resync the key/fob

[Scatmancraig]

Well I've replaced the battery in the fob.  The buttons still work as the litte red and green LED's light up when you press them. But it doesn't lock or unlock the doors etc.

My problem is that a previous owner has disconnected the power sounder due to the alarm going off as soon as you open a door. In ny case there's no alarm, but the hazards flash until you turn the ignition on.  I'd quite like to have the remote locking working though, well that's if the fob buttons are for remote locking and alarm??

Key in ignition, ignition switched on, press lock (unlock ... one of them )  on button and that should resync the key/fob

Woo-hoo, it works!! Having never replaced remote batteries before, I wasn't aware of this procedure, thank you for that, a nice easy fix!

Now I could really do with a replacement fob case or the rubber button covers, as both of mine are totally shot.

[Andy B]

.....
Woo-hoo, it works!! ....

 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

if you can source a good, low mileage fob, then you can either swap the case over, using your own internals, or have the whole fob reprogrammed for your car (technically the car is programmed to accept the new fob)

There were some on heebay a while ago, I got some, and at the time thought 'i should get dozens, and then sell them on to PFL owners as their fobs become unuseable. But the market is pretty damn small, about 95-96 MY, the MFLs onward use an all-in one style key, no separate fob.

That's your third option, by the way - get a MFL-onward all-in-one key. If you wanted to 'upgrade' you'd require a donor vehicle with its 'brain' etc, but could be sourced relatively inexpensively. If memory serves this is separate to the actual engine ECU etc, so no need to find a donor vehcile of same engine etc. The physical locks are the same on any Omega, you can (and I have) run a FL car using a PFL key, just with a piece of handy sellotape holding the chip to the other key.


Everything's doable.