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[terry paget]

2.2 petrol manual saloon
There is a warning light on in this car, picture of a disc with pads around it and ABS in the middle. Is this a general brake fault symbol, or does it mean a fault specifically in the ABS system?  Brakes appear to work normally, not low fluid.

[frostbite]

Its a fault with the system, when you first start the car and drive a few metres you should hear a springing buzz, thats the abs doing a self test, if it cant cant complete it the lights will pop back on.

You will probably find its one of the wheel sensors that has an open circuit or due to a reluctor ring thas damaged or has too much build up of iron filings on the sensor

[TheBoy]

Another reason for a real Tech2 Mr P, as an OBDII wouldn't be able to read that

[terry paget]

Sudden thought - the speedometer is still working normally. On every previous ABS ECU failure I have suffered, the speedometer has failed as the ABS light came on - some were intermittent, but they always came on together. Is this a vital clue? If so, what does it tell me?

[Nick W]

It suggests that it isn't the ECU. But it could still be the valve block, which was the problem with mine. A suitable code reader is NECESSARY to diagnose the fault before you go any further: hoping that it's a sensor(and there are four) is a waste of time.

[terry paget]

I have experienced sensor failure before, and also sensor cable failure, on a front sensor that does lots of flexing with steering and suspension movement. I checked the front sensors for continuity; n/s is continuous, about 1.6K ohms; o/s is open circuit. I guess I have found the fault. I have found in the past that Omega front sensors stick permanently in the hubs, and nothing will shift them. Is this members' experience?

On a Citroen CX 25 turbo 2, with an intermittent fault, I managed to slice open the sensor cable, find the break, and repair it. Worth a try. On my Omega 3.2 I destroyed the sensor trying to remove it, so replaced hub and bearing assembly, complete with ABS sensor, with used item from Steve Brown; means resetting the camber.

Comments invited.

[Doctor Gollum]

Pop the hub off... Caliper, disc and hub nut... Bash the sensor out, fit new and reassemble. If you can do it without removing hub then happy days

Removing the knuckle is insane.

[Nick W]

Pop the hub off... Caliper, disc and hub nut... Bash the sensor out, fit new and reassemble. If you can do it without removing hub then happy days

Removing the knuckle is insane.

This.
And that's without considering the low cost of a new sensor

[terry paget]

Fault was the sensor, not the cable. I found a spare knuckle assembly in my spares heap,with ABS sensor, so popped it on. Fault cured.

I did not know one could easily remove the hub, bother. I imagined it was difficult.

[Doctor Gollum]

I did say as much at the time 

[terry paget]

I did say as much at the time 

Indeed you did, thanks, but by 17.04 I had the knuckle off and was preparing to fit the spare
. I imagined removing the front hub bearing was on a par with the rear wheel bearing. Having read Entwood's guide, I reckon my method did not take much longer than his, especially if I have to have the hub nut torqued up elsewhere.

Pleased to learn that ABS sensors are now cheap, Nick. Like HBVs, they must hve come down a lot.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Hub nut will need torqueing up to 325nm, if my memory serves. And camber will need resetting.

[Doctor Gollum]

Hub nut will need torqueing up to 325nm, if my memory serves. And camber will need resetting.

Camber only needs resetting if the knuckle/strut bolts are disturbed. Hub removal doesn't require these bolts to be touched... 

[terry paget]

Yes, I must reset the camber when I can get he car back. This car is son Ben's car, and contains an extraordinary child seat mounted on the n/s rear seat, and rearward facing, seat conveys my grandson Tom everywhere. It took Ben so long to fit the thing that he is loathe to move it to a different car. He cheerfully drove it around for days with the ABS light on though.

I shall set camber to minus 1.5 degrees, is that right? That means front wheels leaning top inwards, to wear out the tyres on the inner edge as all Omegas do.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Hub nut will need torqueing up to 325nm, if my memory serves. And camber will need resetting.

Camber only needs resetting if the knuckle/strut bolts are disturbed. Hub removal doesn't require these bolts to be touched... 

Knuckle complete with hub was changed.