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[baggers]

It is really easy to do even without tools.

No, its **IMPOSSIBLE** to do the Omega V6 correctly without the correct locking timing kit.  Absolutely impossible.

You should be able to get it good enough to run, but not correctly.

Why? Done it at least 5 times already and it's correct every single time somehow, must be a miracle or just pure luck.

The reality is that's its close enough to run and not damage the engine, correct it is not 

At last count I was into triple figures for V6 cambelt changes and have seen it all, its is pretty surprising how far out setup without the correct timing tool can get it and, how much better they run after the correct setup.

 

[Nick W]

Also noticed there's no timing marks on belt for cam or crank, just part no, which is the same, there is on the old belt 

if you're using the locking kit, marks on the belt are unnecessary.
If you're not using the kit, then you need them. But your chances of getting it timed correctly are very poor, and you will still need to improvise some way of locking the cams to get the old belt off and the new one on. You need the kit to this job easily, quickly and properly.


The idlers need to initially set so they are in the middle of their travel with the belt tight. This will allow you to actually adjust the cam timing correctly. If you don't find enough adjustment to time it correctly, you need to take the belt off and start again. The engine will run with all four cams a tooth out, which is why some people don't consider the locking set necessary. They are wrong.

[Kevin Wood]

Also, I find, on the setups without the adjustable lower idler, if you start assembling the belt with the crank turned back (anticlockwise) about 1/2 to 1 tooth from the TDC position, the run up to cams 3 and 4 is a little looser, and the belt goes on easier, Once you've got it over cams 3 and 4 and loosely around the rest of the run, turn the crank back to TDC and insert the little wedge by the crank pulley. This should pull the belt run up to 3&4 tight and give you enough slack to assemble the belt over the rest of the pulleys.

No markings isn't necessarily a problem but you do need to make sure the belt is tight between each of the cam pullies when they are locked in position. Otherwise, you'll find they're a tooth out once you have rotated the engine and double checked the timing.

[grifter]

I've now got to a point where the belt is on and the cams seem to be lining up ok. However when I initially put the belt on and done the tension the little marker moved quite easily to the outside notch on the tensioner without the belt feeling very tensioned. I wondered then that I would probably have to retension it at some point. I then spun the engine a few turns then checked the cams. 3/4 were ok, 1/2 needed pulled in a little, so I moved the roller offset cam down towards 8/9 o clock position. I had to move this a few times as the 1-2 bank kept coming back round to line up and were out slightly. After 3 or 4 tries this then got to a point it was ok and didn't need any more adjustment. I then noticed the tensioner was now looking a little over tight and the belt feels the same on the long run down to crank. Should I now loosen this off slightly back to the outside notch and recheck? I'm wondering if I have put more tension on the idler and that is now showing on the tensioner tell tale notch.

[Doctor Gollum]

I think, but stand to be corrected, that the belt needs to go one or two teeth clock wise on the cams, with the slack on the run from 4 to the crank being adjusted out of the pulley on that run

Do it one tooth and retry. If it's better, but still a bit tight on the tensioner, then move it a further tooth...

Hopefully someone can confirm as I have an inkling that I mean anti clockwise 

[YZ250]

I think, but stand to be corrected, that the belt needs to go one or two teeth clock wise on the cams, with the slack on the run from 4 to the crank being adjusted out of the pulley on that run

Do it one tooth and retry. If it's better, but still a bit tight on the tensioner, then move it a further tooth...

Hopefully someone can confirm as I have an inkling that I mean anti clockwise 

If this is a 2.6 there won't be an adjuster on that run Al, just an idler, unless I've misunderstood what was meant. 

[Doctor Gollum]

My bad, lost my bearings on the pictures...

Lock all four cams, slacken tensioner and top pulley, move belt one tooth anticlockwise on 1/2 and re tension both pulleys.

Betterer

[YZ250]

To the OP.
It may be the angle of the photo's that makes cam 4 look slightly out  , a straight on photo would conclude that. 
Assuming that when you are looking straight on, each notch is bang on the notch of the setting gauge, and the crank is still correct, can you not just back off the tensioner a bit and then recheck everything else. The upper adjuster appears to be in a good position as per your photo.  Have you rotated the crank through a full cycle and checked the tensioner each time, as it doesn't always land in exactly the same place.
When done, just triple check everything, especially the torque of the adjuster/ tensioner bolt/nut, making sure that you hold its matching part with a spanner/Allen Key when torquing them up. 

Well done for doing it. 

[grifter]

To the OP.
It may be the angle of the photo's that makes cam 4 look slightly out  , a straight on photo would conclude that. 
Assuming that when you are looking straight on, each notch is bang on the notch of the setting gauge, and the crank is still correct, can you not just back off the tensioner a bit and then recheck everything else. The upper adjuster appears to be in a good position as per your photo.  Have you rotated the crank through a full cycle and checked the tensioner each time, as it doesn't always land in exactly the same place.
When done, just triple check everything, especially the torque of the adjuster/ tensioner bolt/nut, making sure that you hold its matching part with a spanner/Allen Key when torquing them up. 

Well done for doing it. 

It is the photo that looks out. The cams all line up perfect. I did take tensioner back a bit to where it should be then readjusted idler. Have spun engine a good few times with plugs out and in and everything lines up nice with about 10mm slack in longest run. Initially found that 3 & 4 lined up bit 2 was a bit out, moving idler sorted that. That's when the tensioner started tightening up, so put back a bit, adjusted idler a bit more to bring first bank back in and eveything a ok now. Because i had no cam marks on new belt i could also count teeth between marks on old belt and check on new belt. 63 teeth between cam 2 & 3, just as an additional mechanical timing check.