Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[TheBoy]

Well I sorted it at last I found that by holding the spring down I could see the adjuster with thanks to you all.For infomation driver's side was down and opposite up!!

But that can vary, as dependent on which way round the adjuster was fitted by the last person on there

[Kevin Wood]

It's also worth mentioning that the wheel adjusters should only ever be touched once the cable has been slackened fully. Once both sides have been done, use the central cable adjuster to give the correct travel on the handbrake lever.

[terry paget]

It's also worth mentioning that the wheel adjusters should only ever be touched once the cable has been slackened fully. Once both sides have been done, use the central cable adjuster to give the correct travel on the handbrake lever.

It's not trivial crawling under the car to fully slacken the cable. I reckon as lnog as the cable is slack on the brake I am adjusting that's slack enough.

[Kevin Wood]

It's also worth mentioning that the wheel adjusters should only ever be touched once the cable has been slackened fully. Once both sides have been done, use the central cable adjuster to give the correct travel on the handbrake lever.

It's not trivial crawling under the car to fully slacken the cable. I reckon as lnog as the cable is slack on the brake I am adjusting that's slack enough.

Yes, that's fine from the point of view of adjusting that brake when the lever travel is fine, but the Op is suffering a long brake lever travel, and that's most likely to be down to the cable having stretched anyway, so most likely it's going to require crawling under it to adjust the central adjuster.

If the adjustment is made only at the wheels, it's likely to either leave them binding or without sufficient travel left at the shoe levers to be effective.

[TheBoy]

Shame that GM put the cable adjuster in such a daft place, as chance of heatshields coming off now and leaving the studs in place...

[omega2018]

sounds like the op managed without touching the cable adjuster.  i know i did, that was over two years ago and it has been fine since. 

the handbrake travel is slightly more than 2 years back but perfect for what i want - i set it then to minimum travel, glad i did.

[TheBoy]

I think I need to adjust cable before MOT on Mrs TB's car.

*sigh*. Its the way she yanks it on.

[Kevin Wood]

Shame that GM put the cable adjuster in such a daft place, as chance of heatshields coming off now and leaving the studs in place...

My heatshields have come off. Couldn't be arsed to put them back on, mind...

[Bigron]

I have an extremely technical solution to handbrake adjustment - I go and see the legendary Serek! 

Ron.

[Nick W]

Shame that GM put the cable adjuster in such a daft place, as chance of heatshields coming off now and leaving the studs in place...

My heatshields have come off. Couldn't be arsed to put them back on, mind...

Mine's the same. Then using a deep 13mm socket on a creative selection of long wobble-drive extensions, adjusting the cable tension is as easy as nailing a jelly to the ceiling. Yet another piece of design that would have been so much better if the engineer had been forced to work on some of his earlier creations.

[Bigron]

I'm reluctant to blame Engineers for some of these seemingly bad decisions and I suspect that there's an accountants hand behind most of them.....

Ron.

[TheBoy]

Shame that GM put the cable adjuster in such a daft place, as chance of heatshields coming off now and leaving the studs in place...

My heatshields have come off. Couldn't be arsed to put them back on, mind...

The bullet's heatshields haven't been on since about 2004, with no ill effects

[TheBoy]

but then the handbrake needed much love on that car.

[terry paget]

It's also worth mentioning that the wheel adjusters should only ever be touched once the cable has been slackened fully. Once both sides have been done, use the central cable adjuster to give the correct travel on the handbrake lever.

It's not trivial crawling under the car to fully slacken the cable. I reckon as lnog as the cable is slack on the brake I am adjusting that's slack enough.

Yes, that's fine from the point of view of adjusting that brake when the lever travel is fine, but the Op is suffering a long brake lever travel, and that's most likely to be down to the cable having stretched anyway, so most likely it's going to require crawling under it to adjust the central adjuster.

If the adjustment is made only at the wheels, it's likely to either leave them binding or without sufficient travel left at the shoe levers to be effective.

Maximum leverage at wheel end is achieved when the brake is hard on with lever at 90 degrees to cable, i.e. adjusted not quite rubbing.  Maximum leverage at cabin end is achieved when driver's arm is at 90 degrees to lever when brake is hard on, i.e. on click 4 or 5. As you say, adjust brake end first, then cable adjuster.

[Sir Tigger KC]

The last time I did mine it was a bright sunny day and I couldn't see anything through the hole. 

So I draped an old blanket over the wheel, put a head torch on, crawled under the blanket and then I could see what I was doing. 

The neighbours must have thought I was mad!