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[cavell]

my 02 L81 3.0 has a new timing belt cast alum bracket with the 2 new rollers. the 1st design is EB? the 2nd is 01? i cannot make out my cast mark but it looks to be 6B?  but, the previous tech reused the right/lower roller with the fixed middle hub. it is supposed to be the HEX style that you can rotate to adjust the cam timing on cams 3/4. is it imperative that i replace the roller with the correct offset design? maybe thats why the timing went off and bent the valves on this motor? i did order a new offset roller to be safe. $30 no big deal. ebay is great. i did find a local seller with a new timing kit with cast bracket, 3rd roller and belt for $60. maybe i should buy it and resell it for more. they go for $120-150

[Kevin Wood]

UK engines had moved on to the 3.2 by then, so our experience might not be directly relevant, but by 02 they had gone to using a fixed idler for the lower right roller.

It doesn't actually matter which one you fit. Adjustable idlers will still work with the later engines. It is important that you replace it, however, as it's the bearings in the idlers that are the main cause of cam belt failures.

As to the castings, I think I'm right in saying that the latest ones, as would be on an 02 engine (here, at least) were marked "01", so it's possible it has been fitted with the incorrect one in the past.

I think I'd be inclined to try the 01 casting first with either lower idler and see if it times up OK, with plenty of travel left in the spring tensioner and plenty of clearance between the idlers and pullies. If that doesn't work you can always swap the two new idlers onto the existing casting and re-use it.

[cavell]

i think ALL the online videos show the adjustment procedure for the timing belt with 2 hex rollers. they use the upper roller to tweak bank 1 cams and use the lower roller to tweak bank 2 cams. i cannot find a procedure that adjusts 1 roller only.

i think saturn used the 3.0 motor in the L300 sedan prior to 2002? perhaps it had a single hex setup?

do you have a link to the 1 hex adjustment procedure?

the way it is explained to me is all motors have tolerances. some have stock heads, some may have milled heads, some blocks are 54 deg +.1 deg and some are 54 deg -.1 deg. you install the timing belt and the cam sprocket teeth line up fine. you are not off 1 tooth which would be noticeable.

than you use the hex adjuster to fine tune the cam alignment marks. and turning the hex will move BOTH cam banks?
so why did they go to a double hex design?
the roller with the 1/2 moon graduated mark is for adjusting tension, not for aligning the cam marks.

[Kevin Wood]

With the fixed idler at the bottom right position, you can't adjust the relationship between cams 3 and 4 and the crank. You adjust cams 1 and 2 using the adjustable idler on the aluminium casting. In my experience, cams 3 and 4 always end up spot on with the fixed idler, so I guess they just figured out it was unnecessary.

I adopt a slightly different procedure when installing the belt, in that I find it helps to turn the crank back about 1 tooth on initial fitting (so the locking tool is vertical rather than resting on the water pump pulley). This gives you enough slack to get the belt over the crank, fixed roller and cams 3 and 4 without getting an extra tooth in that run. Then run the belt over the other sprockets and, when you come to get it finally over the spring tensioner, you can take out the extra tooth of slack by rotating the crank forward to the locked position making sure the belt doesn't slip on the crank pulley.

I don't believe we've got a guide for the fixed idler procedure.

[cavell]

Well, I do have 2 new rollers/bearings and 1 old roller. It would be good to have all new rollers.

[Nick W]

Well, I do have 2 new rollers/bearings and 1 old roller. It would be good to have all new rollers.

If you're not changing ALL of them, there's no point in doing the job. Put the covers back on, drive it till one of the rollers throws the belt, and bin the car.

[cavell]

Cast alum bracket/2 rollers is 2 weeks old. Are you saying replace them? Former owner changed timing belt, bracket, rollers, drove it for 2 weeks and it jumped time. Bent valves. Have not figured out why timing went.

[Kevin Wood]

It'll be fine to use the 2 week old rollers if they are not damaged. Worth changing the lower right hand tensioner though.

I'd have a careful look at how the belt runs. I suspect the wrong casting may be the reason it's failed. Maybe post a few pictures of the current setup?

[cam.in.head]

id be interested in what you find,especially re the right or wrong casting.what are the differences and why do we change them anyway ?

[cavell]

i cannot post pics. but, the old casting has the hex roller directly above the water pump centerline. now it is about 1" to the right. the distance between the roller and the cam sprocket is about 8mm.

[Shackeng]

Cast alum bracket/2 rollers is 2 weeks old. Are you saying replace them? Former owner changed timing belt, bracket, rollers, drove it for 2 weeks and it jumped time. Bent valves. Have not figured out why timing went.

No he's just being Nick.

[cavell]

got new roller today. it does not come with a spacer. though the fixed roller has a spacer. is the fixed spacer the correct one for use with the roller? well, i did pull the vue out of a bin. thats trash bin? you brits talk funny

[Kevin Wood]

I'm pretty sure I found the spacers to be the same between the two types.

[cavell]

it is running. my kid with identical vue was over yesterday and i changed a wheel bearing. her vue motor makes the same sort of clatter/tap noise. is it noisy fuel injectors? cam/lifter clatter? motor does not exactly purr. hmm, i hope it checks out ok in the next few days.

[Doctor Gollum]

it is running. my kid with identical vue was over yesterday and i changed a wheel bearing. her vue motor makes the same sort of clatter/tap noise. is it noisy fuel injectors? cam/lifter clatter? motor does not exactly purr. hmm, i hope it checks out ok in the next few days.

Lifter treatment