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[tigers_gonads]

Father Christmas got me a very nice amp for the omega's system i'm building.
Normaly when i've fitted this sort of thing, the main power supply comes from the battery with a inline fuse fitted.
Okay, the question is .............. is there heavy duty 12 volt busbar behind the dash that I can tap off to save me running a whopping big cable through the bulkhead of the car OR is it a case of tough titty   

The amp is a Focal Auditor 4 x 70 watts ( 4 ohms) RMS so its not exactly lightweight 

TIA 

[biggriffin]

Think you're going to have to go, thro,the bulkhead into engine bay,  same way as the constabluary,use to wire up all the gubbins.

[tigers_gonads]

Think you're going to have to go, thro,the bulkhead into engine bay,  same way as the constabluary,use to wire up all the gubbins.

Yeh, I was fearing that 

Oh well, its glove box out time again 

Cheers Griff 

[zirk]

The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).

Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it.   

[tigers_gonads]

The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).

Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it.   

My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway 

How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?

The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets 

Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire 
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list. 

[biggriffin]

The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).

Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it.   

My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway 

How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?

The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets 

Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire 
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list. 

 

did yoo get some neons, and a jaunty angled baseball cap, init, for dem banging toons,,,    please don't take it seriously, and flounce

[Doctor Gollum]

If you have a pikey hook fitted, can you not use the feed for the van socket...

[Kevin Wood]

Best to install a suitably rated feed (will probably need to be 40+amps).
You can install an additional fuse in the Fusible link box that sits above the battery positive terminal, which makes a neat conversion.
Feed the wire through a hole poked in the big rubber grommet behind the cabin filter or on DBW cars you can put a grommet in the vacant hole that used to be used for the throttle cable.
About 7 metres of wire are required to get to the cubby hole in the rear IME.

[tigers_gonads]

The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).

Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it.   

My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway 

How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?

The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets 

Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire 
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list. 

 

did yoo get some neons, and a jaunty angled baseball cap, init, for dem banging toons,,,    please don't take it seriously, and flounce

I'm that bad smell you can never get rid of 
I'll never leave .............. and that wasn't a challenge yeh bulling bastards 

[tigers_gonads]

If you have a pikey hook fitted, can you not use the feed for the van socket...

Too lightweight in this case Al
The amp has 2 x 15 amp blade fuses for starters so i'm looking at 10 or 8 awg cable and a inline 40 amp HRC fuse if my Vodka / Guinness / Pear Cider / Whiskey / Black Russian fuelled brain is working correctly 

[tigers_gonads]

Best to install a suitably rated feed (will probably need to be 40+amps).
You can install an additional fuse in the Fusible link box that sits above the battery positive terminal, which makes a neat conversion.
Feed the wire through a hole poked in the big rubber grommet behind the cabin filter or on DBW cars you can put a grommet in the vacant hole that used to be used for the throttle cable.
About 7 metres of wire are required to get to the cubby hole in the rear IME.

Hoping to get away with 5 meters that came in the kit Kev but I will soon find out 

[tigers_gonads]

Okay, now its dry and a little bit warmer, I thought i'd better get on with running all the cables for this little lot 

All RCA's are in.
The 12 volt feed is in.
The amp LT trigger wire is in.
Just need to solder the new speaker cables into the exsisting loom.
I'm looking at soldering / heat shrinking the new cables at the point it travels up into the rubber conduit then into the doors.
Cables are laid in place, just need to find out which cables I need to cut 

I'm looking for the cable colours / idents for .....................

Front nearside
Rear nearside
Front offside
Rear offside

Anybody help on this ?

Kev, 5 metres JUST was enough from the battery area to the amp 

[zirk]

Okay, now its dry and a little bit warmer, I thought i'd better get on with running all the cables for this little lot 

All RCA's are in.
The 12 volt feed is in.
The amp LT trigger wire is in.
Just need to solder the new speaker cables into the exsisting loom.
I'm looking at soldering / heat shrinking the new cables at the point it travels up into the rubber conduit then into the doors.
Cables are laid in place, just need to find out which cables I need to cut 

I'm looking for the cable colours / idents for .....................

Front nearside
Rear nearside
Front offside
Rear offside

Anybody help on this ?

Kev, 5 metres JUST was enough from the battery area to the amp 

Im in Brain Dead mode at the moment but isnt there a Colour Map of the Kick Panel Connector here on OOF somewhere (or maybe another Site ) that would help you?

Are you not running fresh Cable from the New Amp to each Speaker?

[tigers_gonads]

Okay, now its dry and a little bit warmer, I thought i'd better get on with running all the cables for this little lot 

All RCA's are in.
The 12 volt feed is in.
The amp LT trigger wire is in.
Just need to solder the new speaker cables into the exsisting loom.
I'm looking at soldering / heat shrinking the new cables at the point it travels up into the rubber conduit then into the doors.
Cables are laid in place, just need to find out which cables I need to cut 

I'm looking for the cable colours / idents for .....................

Front nearside
Rear nearside
Front offside
Rear offside

Anybody help on this ?

Kev, 5 metres JUST was enough from the battery area to the amp 

Im in Brain Dead mode at the moment but isnt there a Colour Map of the Kick Panel Connector here on OOF somewhere (or maybe another Site ) that would help you?

Are you not running fresh Cable from the New Amp to each Speaker?

I'll have a nosey in morning Chris but green / green with a white trace rings a bell.
Not sure if its the same for all 4 doors. Its been a while since I have been in there 

And yes, its fresh upgraded cable from the amp to the loom were it goes into the doors.
I'll see if I can get the new cable through the rubber conduit upto the cross over box that's cut into the back of the door cards.
If not i'll leave the last 2 foot of old cable in and solder the new stuff to it 

[Kevin Wood]

If you can get the driver's kick panel connector from an old Bose loom it's plug and play.

EDIT: and you can connect all 4 speakers there and not have to fight getting cables into the doors.