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[dave the builder]

If it's not that wishbone rear bush, then have you checked the anti-roll bar drop links are done up properly - the one in the photo appears to have been greased recently, and it much newer than the rest of the suspension. I'd back both top and bottom nuts off a few turns then re-tighten to the correct torque (400Nm + 180 degrees  ). I had one work lose on the Carlton and the banging it made sounded like the front end was about to fall off.

that is a good point ,
had the same before and was shocked at what a big  clunk just one end of the arb link bolt being slightly loose ,it took some tracking down (arb links felt tight with car jacked ), found by someone bouncing the car at the back while i looked at suspension at front .

[Doctor Gollum]

That bush is definitely shot... Thanks for the clearer picture confirming it

Incidentally, if you, or anyone else, attempts to tighten their drop links to 400NM, expect to be replacing them

Think you'll find that is the hub nut setting, and that drop links are 60NM BFT is generally enough, but it does pay to recheck after a week or so

[Nick W]

Incidentally, if you, or anyone else, attempts to tighten their drop links to 400NM, expect to be replacing them

Think you'll find that is the hub nut setting, and that drop links are 60NM BFT is generally enough, but it does pay to recheck after a week or so

Drop link torque is hardly critical, and 60Nm is a tweak with an appropriate spanner.

[Doctor Gollum]

Officially, it's actually 65Nm...

Potayto, Potarto

[LC0112G]

Incidentally, if you, or anyone else, attempts to tighten their drop links to 400NM, expect to be replacing them

Think you'll find that is the hub nut setting, and that drop links are 60NM BFT is generally enough, but it does pay to recheck after a week or so

T'was a joke 

However, no reason why over tightening the nuts will affect the ball joints. IIRC they're M12, so anything up to 100Nm shouldn't be an issue (until you need to get them off again).

[terry paget]

If it's not that wishbone rear bush, then have you checked the anti-roll bar drop links are done up properly - the one in the photo appears to have been greased recently, and it much newer than the rest of the suspension. I'd back both top and bottom nuts off a few turns then re-tighten to the correct torque (400Nm + 180 degrees  ). I had one work lose on the Carlton and the banging it made sounded like the front end was about to fall off.

Thanks, good suggestion. Today I checked the RH drop link, undid the nuts a couple of turns, then retightened them to 65Nm. Sadly, the clonk is still there.

[TheBoy]

If it's not that wishbone rear bush, then have you checked the anti-roll bar drop links are done up properly - the one in the photo appears to have been greased recently, and it much newer than the rest of the suspension. I'd back both top and bottom nuts off a few turns then re-tighten to the correct torque (400Nm + 180 degrees  ). I had one work lose on the Carlton and the banging it made sounded like the front end was about to fall off.

That sounds just like a knackered droplink. Apparently. Don't ask how I know

[TheBoy]

As others have said, that rearward bush is shot. Completely buggered.  I suspect the front isn't far behind.

Get a pry in between the wishbone and the steering knuckle, and look for play there as well.


Personally, I do subscribe to the refurbing old wishbones, based on the fact that GM ones are stupid money and everything else is utter shite, including that shite from ATP.  But each to their own.

[Nick W]

Thanks, good suggestion. Today I checked the RH drop link, undid the nuts a couple of turns, then retightened them to 65Nm. Sadly, the clonk is still there.

How did you check the condition of the droplink balljoints without completely disconnecting at least one of them?

[terry paget]

Thanks, good suggestion. Today I checked the RH drop link, undid the nuts a couple of turns, then retightened them to 65Nm. Sadly, the clonk is still there.

How did you check the condition of the droplink balljoints without completely disconnecting at least one of them?

I removed both nuts and the drop link from the car. It had been a new one when fitted in the last 2 months. The noise is not the chattering of a failing ball joint, it is of a sudden slipping. In fact initially I overtightened it, my torque wrench was set to 105Nm for wheel nuts, when I realised this I loosened them again and retorqued to 65Nm.

[terry paget]

If it's not that wishbone rear bush, then have you checked the anti-roll bar drop links are done up properly - the one in the photo appears to have been greased recently, and it much newer than the rest of the suspension. I'd back both top and bottom nuts off a few turns then re-tighten to the correct torque (400Nm + 180 degrees  ). I had one work lose on the Carlton and the banging it made sounded like the front end was about to fall off.

That sounds just like a knackered droplink. Apparently. Don't ask how I know

Really? I have another spare. Do you think it is worth swopping?

[Doctor Gollum]

No.

[terry paget]

As others have said, that rearward bush is shot. Completely buggered.  I suspect the front isn't far behind.

Get a pry in between the wishbone and the steering knuckle, and look for play there as well.


Personally, I do subscribe to the refurbing old wishbones, based on the fact that GM ones are stupid money and everything else is utter shite, including that shite from ATP.  But each to their own.

[terry paget]

As others have said, that rearward bush is shot. Completely buggered.  I suspect the front isn't far behind.

Get a pry in between the wishbone and the steering knuckle, and look for play there as well.


Personally, I do subscribe to the refurbing old wishbones, based on the fact that GM ones are stupid money and everything else is utter shite, including that shite from ATP.  But each to their own.

I've been running with ATP wishbones for years, they seem good and cheap. I have already tried prying apart the steering knuckle ball joint, it seemed OK.
The noise is just like I have known before with loosely fitted drop links.

My problem is Tuesday 3 July I had a skin graft from groin to scalp to replace a patch of skin cancer. I was ordered to keep it dry and not bash it about. This makes changing a wishbone difficult and ill advised. But I have a serious car fault, which I have not yet diagnosed. Do we believe the wishbone failed joints could be the problem, having passed an MOT in the last month?

[ronnyd]

As the car has recently passed the MOT, could you not carry on using it until you,re in a more robust state to do the job.?