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[TheBoy]

I never found that with it Certainly never felt like it was about to let go. Sure the estates do wallow a bit when pressing on which might explain your impression

Up til that time, I regularly drove a lot of Omegas, many estates as well, though not so many now.  And that Terbs reprobate probably won't get in the car with me ever again, despite it being a reasonably gentle ride

I think I commented at the time, the suspension felt solid, but that car was unable to grip the road, ruining the effect.

[Muroman]

I mean 2.2 degree negative camber and it is now measured very precisely. I got to rethink if they really wear so fast   

That 2mm toe in is must have at finnish roads with 235 wide tyres so can't be without it

[Raeturbo]

No road needs that much toe in surely?

[Raeturbo]

Camber would be choice adjustment for roads , hence the name.

[Doctor Gollum]

1°10 is perfect Omega camber.

Zero toe is required because poly vertical bushes significantly alter the way the wishbone behaves during turns.

[Raeturbo]

Agreed and even that’s considered ‘sporty’ by some for a comfy type car.

[Muroman]

Just to update on car, I changed toe in 0.2mm, camber still 2.2 degree and lifted the rear a bit.
This made the car somehow unstable on corner exit but the understeer stayed pretty much away. (Maybe the higher rear)

Then lowered the car back on where it was and changed the rear tyres to thinner 205. This made the car oversteer very much but as winter is coming it's okay

Maybe could change the camber to 1.1 degree for winter roads. I think the 0.2mm toe in is all around good.

I lower and lift the rear by adjusting the small joint that measures the rear height. I made it adjustable with threaded rod.

[Doctor Gollum]

Do you have the Polish poly vertical bushes in the front wishbones?

If so, try zero toe at the front... Advice given by Wheels In Motion when I was experimenting with mine

[Muroman]

Does omega change toe when braking or accelerating? Because my race car does go toe out when braking hard and by that I mean front going down.

I have those vertical polys.

[Doctor Gollum]

1. Only if the geometry is screwed up or the front bushes are shot... Powerflex bushes all but stop this.

2. Set Toe to zero. With those bushes there should be no movement fore/aft as the weight transfers so you don't need toe to compensate

[Muroman]

Camber 1.2 degree.
Toe is now 0, on scale +-0.05mm.

It is understeering again  But yes the front tires are shot from the inside side, so I'll drive the winter with this setup.

Couldn't get to 1.1 degree camber on the right side of the car, anyone know why? I mean I have the adjustment on limit.

[Doctor Gollum]

Manufacturing tolerance of pattern parts...

Basically, use a suitable file to slightly extend the oval slot on the top strut/hub bolt

Once the tyres have started to wear in a particular way, they will continue to wear unevenly even if the cause has been addressed.

Tweak the camber adjustment, fit new tyres and report back after a few k:s