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[9jdm]

Hi folks. Started on cam belt today using excellent dvd. However run into a snag. I’m using a sp locking kit. The crank lock isn’t as good as the one in the vid. As a result when it comes into contact with water pump it doesn’t sit well and as a result the cams are slightly advanced.
I have rotated the crank again and locked it against water pump when the cams are aligned using gauge and locks fit in ok. However as you can see from the pics the crank lock is a bit off. The timing marks on the crank itself are in line and the flats are vertical.
Should I proceed. I’m in a remote area and won’t be able to get a replacement tool any time soon.
Hope the pics are visible. Thanks in advance.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/fpvm5ztkl6yklxl/AADgM5YwQxxJ60i7TcxgoHzU
https://www.dropbox.com/s/de7ah9nrf936czh/Photo%2031-08-2018%2C%2016%2033%2028.jpg?dl=0

[Enceladus]

Are you saying that the semi-circular cut-out doesn't sit properly on the boss of the pump?
And is the new belt fitted yet? But you can't adjust it?

[9jdm]

Hi not removed old belt yet. Yes the crank lock tool semi circle doesn’t meet up with the pump. Some part of it makes contact but my worry is it might not be the same point when I remove it and rotate.

[TheBoy]

Doesn't look on right, should be on the end of the pump shaft - the bit with the flats on.

Is it the lock isn't sitting on the crank fully (at the bottom in that pic), or the screw bit causes it to misalign?

[TestOmega]

Listen to TheBoy for definitive guidance. But I believe you need to loosen the water pump part of the tool and ensure the semicircular part makes complete contact with the water pump spindle curved part first and then the flat part. Ensure a very tight fit with the circular part and ensuring zero play in this contact. Then the flat to flat contact. Then tighten plus test for any play by trying to move water pump spindle with hand. That should ensure that crank cannot move and/or things get out of alignment with the cams. Just some thoughts. Good luck.

[9jdm]

Thanks guys. Yes The Boy. You are right when i tighten the screw at the bottom, the one in crank it causes the tool to mis align. Maybe a modification to the hole?

[Enceladus]

Nobody will have modified the hole.
Are you sure that the crank timing mark is at 6 'clock? Or maybe there's crap jammed behind somewhere?
There's a video here of a guy using the crank/water pump locking tool on a Cadillac CTS. At minute 9:00 and later at 38:30 it shows how the tool should fit.

If the tensioner and roller adjustments are out then the cam sprocket timing marks will be out.

[9jdm]

Really helpful vid thanks. The tool in the vid is much better quality. I meant should I fettle the hole in the tool to allow it to tighten up without distortion. However I have concluded that my tool is shit and contacted the supplier.  Many thanks guys. I am assured my kit is genuine but I have my doubts now.

[Doctor Gollum]

There were some dubious locking kits doing the rounds a few years ago.

Back the crank slightly, fit the tool to the crank hub and slide the flat piece down as far as it goes.

The rotate the crank until the curve butts against the water pum. Then slide the flat upwards until flush with the flat on the pump hub and tighten. 

Modifying the hub to accept the tool is akin to scrapping the engine. Be better to waste time waiting for a new locking kit than trying to fit a dodgy one

[grifter]

I had the same problem with a locking tool I bought off of that famous auction site. The hole in the crank bit was not aligning with crank hole, even though the lock was properly on, it did tighten but the locking bolt started tightening off centre,, just like in your pic. It might be the locking tool. I had to buy another locking tool and it worked perfectly.

[TheBoy]

Check you actually have the crank alignment marks ar 6 o'clock, not at 12 o'clock...

[9jdm]

Thanks guys for all the prompt replies. I am going to take the advice and seek a replacement tool. The crank marks are at 6 by the way but the slightest movement makes a difference so I will wait.
I’ll get back with an update as to how I get on.

[Enceladus]

While you're waiting you could consider replacing the water pump. Unless it's been done before it's at least 15 years old.

Before you give up and condemn the locking kit that you have!

The crank end of the tool has two flats on the round recess on the backside. The flats should fit snugly on the corresponding flats on the crankshaft boss. The round recess in the tool should be sitting squarely on the boss. The side flats provide the tool alignment when the crank timing mark is at 6 o'clock. The purpose of the knurled screw is to keep the tool square onto the boss and stop it rocking, not to prevent side to side movement as that's done by the flats.

Is the hole for the knurled screw threaded? If so, back off the screw so that none of it protrudes from the back. The hole should be lining up with the tapped hole in the crank boss. The screw should pick up the threads in the boss when you tighten it whilst keeping pressure on the base of the tool to keep it square to the boss. If some of the knurled screw was protruding then the tool won't be flat on the boss when you start. And you end up with a gap, which might cause tool misalignment with the pump.

As I understand you the holes don't line up properly and if that's the case it's never going to be right. Or perhaps the hole is drilled off-square. But first I would double check that there's no crud on the crank boss or it's flats that might prevent the tool from sitting squarely onto the boss. It wouldn't take much as it's meant to be a tight fit.

[9jdm]

This is becoming a job I wished I hadn’t started.  Got new locking tools. All fit and line up like a dream. Next snag is getting the bloody belt on. As per dvd I located it on crank and fed it round. However it is very stiff and when I locate it on cams there is some slack between the cams. To get it really taught is impossible. See photos. It’s like half a tooth out. For good measure I retried the old belt and that is the same. The dvd seems straight forward. Is there a technique or is the slack acceptable.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ui98sd3q6rsugq/Photo%2005-09-2018%2C%2014%2039%2016.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yk4ujixi67q9ir5/Photo%2005-09-2018%2C%2014%2039%2057.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gs50ym535c9ou8x/Photo%2005-09-2018%2C%2014%2038%2015.jpg?dl=0

[TheBoy]

There is an element of slack, that needs some judgement before removing the locking wedges.  The key being that with the wedges removed, the horseshoe timing tool will line up still.

(and then crank over by hand by 720 degrees (cams 360 degrees) and double check)