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[tunnie]

Breakthrough

Found inside the "Power Steering Control Module" a bunch of codes, thanks to TB for suggesting all modules, I cleared them and ABS EBCM error to clear dash error. Went for a drive, ESP came back on and went back to power steering module, had this code:

U0415: Invalid Data Received from Electronic Brake Control Module.

Off to Google....

EBCM itself had no codes...

2 mins Google and I think it still suggests ABS pump 

Good in a way I guess.

https://www.troublecodes.net/ucodes/u0415/

Probable Cause: Wiring, Wheel speed sensors, Defective ABS control module, Defective ABS pump, PCM.

[tunnie]

other codes, before I cleared them:

U0140 - Lost communication with Body Control Module.
U0121 - Lost communication with Electronic Brake Control Module
U0100 - Lost communication with Engine Control Module
U0415 - Invalid data received from Electronic Brake Control Module

[STEMO]

I read something about this yesterday and I'm buggered if I can find it again. Turned out to be chafed wiring under the battery tray.

[tunnie]

I read something about this yesterday and I'm buggered if I can find it again. Turned out to be chafed wiring under the battery tray.

Searching myself for this, can't find anything.

[TheBoy]

other codes, before I cleared them:

U0140 - Lost communication with Body Control Module.
U0121 - Lost communication with Electronic Brake Control Module
U0100 - Lost communication with Engine Control Module
U0415 - Invalid data received from Electronic Brake Control Module

In steering ECU?

Looks like a CAN issue, and be checking the wiring between all these ECUs.

[tunnie]

other codes, before I cleared them:

U0140 - Lost communication with Body Control Module.
U0121 - Lost communication with Electronic Brake Control Module
U0100 - Lost communication with Engine Control Module
U0415 - Invalid data received from Electronic Brake Control Module

In steering ECU?

Looks like a CAN issue, and be checking the wiring between all these ECUs.

In power steering, yes. But after clearing and then driving only 415 returned.

[TheBoy]

Before condemming any component, just check wiring integrity between them.  Also, be aware, with CANBUS, there may not be a direct cable between those, and it might pass through other ECUs on the way, any of which could potentially upset the signal (though unlikely, unless they are in some poorly tested error routine themselves).

Of all the many advantages of CAN, this is the biggest downside.


Hence, the suggestion to go through everything on the same CANBUS (no idea how many the Astra-J/Zaf-C have, previous models had 3 - high speed, medium speed and slow speed).  I would imagine ABS would be on high or med speed, but you need to check.

[tunnie]

So technical knowledge on the Zaf-C is thin on the ground, this thread is better than Zaf forums. So no idea which CANBUS would be which in terms of speed, but....

Yesterday I went through every single module I could under "Zafira-C" - From the park distance module, to radio, transmission, everything. Only area which had codes were power steering module, listed the above.

[TheBoy]

Your reader might not do all ECUs.  So get a set of schematics from somewhere, and pour over them.  Pretty certain you can get a day subscription to GM's EU TIS, because we can't recommend dodgy copies of the software here, can we.


That said, does sound likely its the ABS causing a problem.  But if the ABS/ESP is working, I would defo be checking the connectors etc before condemming anything.

[tunnie]

Your reader might not do all ECUs.  So get a set of schematics from somewhere, and pour over them.  Pretty certain you can get a day subscription to GM's EU TIS, because we can't recommend dodgy copies of the software here, can we.


That said, does sound likely its the ABS causing a problem.  But if the ABS/ESP is working, I would defo be checking the connectors etc before condemming anything.

It's not, another weekend test was taking it on the by-pass.

I stamped on the brakes at 70mph, easily locked up the fronts, with no pedal feedback.

[tunnie]

Also fact live data still says 0v to the motor pump as well. 

[TheBoy]

OK, still check the connectors though.  It probably wont take long, and if its a free fix, you'll be pleased.  But sounds like you'll be swapping the part out.

Check if part replacement needs programming in, or if its simply plug and pray.  If it does need programming in, those repair services look a lot more appealing

[dave the builder]

Your reader might not do all ECUs.  So get a set of schematics from somewhere, and pour over them.  Pretty certain you can get a day subscription to GM's EU TIS, because we can't recommend dodgy copies of the software here, can we.


That said, does sound likely its the ABS causing a problem.  But if the ABS/ESP is working, I would defo be checking the connectors etc before condemming anything.

It's not, another weekend test was taking it on the by-pass.

I stamped on the brakes at 70mph, easily locked up the fronts, with no pedal feedback.

so 0 volts ,abs pump not working
did you find the abs relay , mentioned many posts ago

[TheBoy]

Also fact live data still says 0v to the motor pump as well. 

What does it say on a working one?  Is that the return pump? If so, that would only be activated under antilock conditions.

[tunnie]

Your reader might not do all ECUs.  So get a set of schematics from somewhere, and pour over them.  Pretty certain you can get a day subscription to GM's EU TIS, because we can't recommend dodgy copies of the software here, can we.


That said, does sound likely its the ABS causing a problem.  But if the ABS/ESP is working, I would defo be checking the connectors etc before condemming anything.

It's not, another weekend test was taking it on the by-pass.

I stamped on the brakes at 70mph, easily locked up the fronts, with no pedal feedback.

so 0 volts ,abs pump not working
did you find the abs relay , mentioned many posts ago

Yes, the large 60amp one in the engine bay, there was another fuse as well 25amp Micro2 fuse in the engine bay too.

The larger one had a cover to remove on top, so you could visually inspect as well.

Both tested with a multi-meter, both had number "close to one" as per research suggested it should.