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[Nick W]

Both filler and paint need to be applied to a shiny, flat, dry, greasefree surface. You're not going to manage that pasting it over a hole that you've injected rustproofing gunge into.


Your plan is going to make your car look much worse for no gain.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Both filler and paint need to be applied to a shiny, flat, dry, greasefree surface. You're not going to manage that pasting it over a hole that you've injected rustproofing gunge into.


Your plan is going to make your car look much worse for no gain.

Ok, thanks, but what do I do then to get Supertrol into that area so that once I have dealt with the external problem, the internal does not break through?

[Nick W]

Both filler and paint need to be applied to a shiny, flat, dry, greasefree surface. You're not going to manage that pasting it over a hole that you've injected rustproofing gunge into.


Your plan is going to make your car look much worse for no gain.

Ok, thanks, but what do I do then to get Supertrol into that area so that once I have dealt with the external problem, the internal does not break through?

From the back, after you've played about with the outside.


Don't expect any tarting up you do to last more than a few months.


Which is why it's a waste of time.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Both filler and paint need to be applied to a shiny, flat, dry, greasefree surface. You're not going to manage that pasting it over a hole that you've injected rustproofing gunge into.


Your plan is going to make your car look much worse for no gain.

Ok, thanks, but what do I do then to get Supertrol into that area so that once I have dealt with the external problem, the internal does not break through?

From the back, after you've played about with the outside.


Don't expect any tarting up you do to last more than a few months.


Which is why it's a waste of time.

Thanks, but I am not prepared to do nothing,. which others have also warned against.  So your suggestion to go in from the back does make every sense. Thanks!

The last tarting up has lasted a year before the slight bubbling came up again

So, if I get another year............all well and good!

[johnnydog]

It's not difficult to remove the boot carpet, wheel arch carpets, side pieces / first aid cover etc - the passenger side easy.
That's the way I go in there, and how I would suggest doing it. Better than drilling more holes. On nice sunny day, the trim can be laid out without fear of it getting wet, you can then sit back after you've done it, smelling of Supertrol, but enjoy a well earned drink knowing that it's been a good days work, with the Supertrol doing what it's best at - penetrating spot welded seams.

[Lizzie Zoom]

It's not difficult to remove the boot carpet, wheel arch carpets, side pieces / first aid cover etc - the passenger side easy.
That's the way I go in there, and how I would suggest doing it. Better than drilling more holes. On nice sunny day, the trim can be laid out without fear of it getting wet, you can then sit back after you've done it, smelling of Supertrol, but enjoy a well earned drink knowing that it's been a good days work, with the Supertrol doing what it's best at - penetrating spot welded seams.

But I have looked around the whole of the boot area and I cannot see how any access can be made to the cavity between the rear quarter section panels down to the wheel arches.  Where are the access points please?

I have removed the boot carpet, but I have no wheel arch ones, but neither have access points to the inner panel sections from there.  Indeed, all those panels are in as new condition.  It is only the inner wheel arch area I need to get to.

I just cannot see them

Thanks 

[Doctor Gollum]

Remove the backrest, then remove everything from the boot opening behind it. Then remove all the carpet you can see in the boot.

Cannot simplify it any more

[Lizzie Zoom]

OK, but I really do not know what I am looking for as all is good there and there are no visible openings for getting to the wheel arches around the lip

I will just have to look yet again!

[Doctor Gollum]

The lip is only the outer panel. The inner seam is about an inch up from the lip on the flat surface. It is sealed by a mastic applied before the quarter panel is fitted and the excess smoothed to the finish that you can see behind the lip... Wheel off or phone camera and you'll see what I mean.

The area you are trying to access is only visible as a crevice once the carpets are removed. 

[Lizzie Zoom]

The lip is only the outer panel. The inner seam is about an inch up from the lip on the flat surface. It is sealed by a mastic applied before the quarter panel is fitted and the excess smoothed to the finish that you can see behind the lip... Wheel off or phone camera and you'll see what I mean.

The area you are trying to access is only visible as a crevice once the carpets are removed. 

Ah, thanks DG!!

Now I understand.  I just could not understand, with my car in the garage, how I could reach that area inside the cavity.  Now I do!

Anything mechanical thing I understand, but when it comes to car bodies I don't.  I could not visualize how the outer and inner panel skins came together around the wheel arch and how I could spray Supertrol into that area,

That saves drilling or even getting up underneath the wheel arches, although I will still be attending to the outer seam that goes all around the wheel arch externally. Then I will rub down, removing the outer 'bubbled' areas, treat the rust, fill with Isopon, rub down for a smooth finish, lay on the layers of anti-rust primer, and then apply the top coats and lacquer. T-cut after a few days to bring to a polish.  Much easier!!

Now I have a definite plan

Thanks DG and Jonneydog!

[Lizzie Zoom]

..............so, just another question to clarify, if I make a small opening through the mastic seal can I simply spay the rust prevention mist through them to eventually get enough all the way down to the inner wheel arch area - behind where it is bubbling?

 

[Doctor Gollum]

..............so, just another question to clarify, if I make a small opening through the mastic seal can I simply spay the rust prevention mist through them to eventually get enough all the way down to the inner wheel arch area - behind where it is bubbling?

 

No. Mostly because the bubbling originates from the wheel arch lip not the inner panel

[Lizzie Zoom]

..............so, just another question to clarify, if I make a small opening through the mastic seal can I simply spay the rust prevention mist through them to eventually get enough all the way down to the inner wheel arch area - behind where it is bubbling?

 

No. Mostly because the bubbling originates from the wheel arch lip not the inner panel

Oh, now I'm confused.

So why is everyone saying about treating the inside of the panels if it does nothing to stop wheel arch rot / bubbling?

That is my small area of problem after all

[Nick W]

Oh, now I'm confused.

So why is everyone saying about treating the inside of the panels if it does nothing to stop wheel arch rot / bubbling?

That is my small area of problem after all

Some of us are saying it's a complete waste of time......


There is no magic potion that will make a crusty welded flange better. Cutting and welding is the only option if you want to fix it. Or you could leave it until it's much worse and fix it then.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Oh, now I'm confused.

So why is everyone saying about treating the inside of the panels if it does nothing to stop wheel arch rot / bubbling?

That is my small area of problem after all

[i]Some [/i]of us are saying it's a complete waste of time......


There is no magic potion that will make a crusty welded flange better. Cutting and welding is the only option if you want to fix it. Or you could leave it until it's much worse and fix it then.

Very true
Ok, then. Thanks