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[456lbft]

Please can anyone tell me if they know why my MV6 doesn't seem to have any cold start enrichment or raised idle speed.  It always starts and has a strong battery, but it just sits at about 700-800rpm from stone cold, as if it is warm, when it definitely isn't.  Is here a value from the engine temp sensor that I can check?  Any other ideas will be much appreciated.  It won't be long before the engine comes out for a manual conversion and attention to all the oil leaks, but I'd like to sort this while it is still in one piece.  Thanks

[Nick W]

So it starts, idles and doesn't cut out? Is that still true if you put it in drive?
Why would it need a raised cold idle if it does all that? It's working just how I would want it to.


Fast idle from a choke was always a bodge to cover the inadequacies of carbs and distributor ignitions.

[456lbft]

So it starts, idles and doesn't cut out? Is that still true if you put it in drive?
Why would it need a raised cold idle if it does all that? It's working just how I would want it to.


Fast idle from a choke was always a bodge to cover the inadequacies of carbs and distributor ignitions.

Thanks, maybe it is fine then, it just seemed odd to me. Most cars, even modern ones seem to have a cold start procedure which involves a slightly higher idle, even if only for a few seconds.

[STEMO]

Neither of ours fast idle at start up, but they are both diesel 

[johnnydog]

Some modern petrol engine sound as is if they have a high or fast idle on a cold start up which subsides after a couple of minutes. This is the secondary air pump which is designed to force air into the exhaust system to reduce cold start emissions. Invariably these engines sound a fair bit noisier for a couple of minutes until the pump stops which could be mistaken for a higher cold start engine speed.

[ronnyd]

My Vectra C 1.8 (Z18XER), runs at about 200 revs above normal when first started. If that's any help. Thank God the smileys are back to normal.

[jb]

Thats normal with a 3.2

[johnnydog]

If it helps, both my 3.2's start first turn of the key from cold, and then run at normal tick over speed whether cold, warm or hot. I imagine the engine ecu will control the mixture and engine speed relative to the signal sent from the coolant temperature sensor, which on a modern engine is a more gradual change, rather than the 'good old days?' when you used to jiggle around with the choke cable to get the best and smoithest revs relative to the amount of fuel enrichment required.

[Doctor Gollum]

800 is a fast idle for the 3.2.

650-700 is normal in my experience. A faulty ecu temp sender will affect fuelling.

Also, they really don't take long to heat up, so revs should back off fairly quickly unless it's properly cold.

[456lbft]

Thanks for all the feedback, I shall stop my paranoia and just enjoy the superior engineering of my lovely MV6s.  Just need to fix the spongy brakes now...

[biggriffin]

Thanks for all the feedback, I shall stop my paranoia and just enjoy the superior engineering of my lovely MV6s.  Just need to fix the spongy brakes now...

 Fix the spongee Brakes,  don't rush, fit braided hoses.  Every Omega I've owned has had slightly soft pedal at the start, then was sufficient.. Only omega I've driven with a hard pedal was sereks with the brake conversion kit on, and that stopped bloody quick from 70mph

[456lbft]

Thanks for all the feedback, I shall stop my paranoia and just enjoy the superior engineering of my lovely MV6s.  Just need to fix the spongy brakes now...

 Fix the spongee Brakes,  don't rush, fit braided hoses.  Every Omega I've owned has had slightly soft pedal at the start, then was sufficient.. Only omega I've driven with a hard pedal was sereks with the brake conversion kit on, and that stopped bloody quick from 70mph

That's the direction I am heading in, braided hoses and a very careful bleeding process including the ABS pump, followed by bigger discs and calipers similar to the upgraded ones that we fit to Lotus Carltons

[johnnydog]

Not wanting to turn this onto a brake pad debate, but Omegas I have owned that have previously had a 'dead', 'spongy' or 'uninspiring' brake pedal feel, have been greatly improved by replacing the previously fitted poor quality brake discs and pads with known good quality sets which has greatly improved both 'bite' and 'feel'. I have fitted braided hoses to certain classic Triumphs which has improved the brake pedal feel and response on them, but I have had no experience of doing this on an Omega, basically as I have never felt the need to...

[cam.in.head]

exactly.
and when you think of how the calipers actually work( front: piston coming out to squeeze the combined assembly of    pad,disc,other side of caliper "fingers"   and rear   both pistons coming out to squeeze the disc with pads and shims) ( plus the fact that you are taking up the running clearance/ relaxation first)it makes sense that any seized sliders,misalignment,bent shims,rust build up all has to be overcome before the disc actually gets squeezed its no wonder there is some initial pedal travel or softness before the brakes actually come into effect.
yes steel braided hoses will also help too but not as much as eliminating unnecessary caliper movement.
this has also become an issue if people have had a caliper with a slightly stiff sticking piston.once the caliper has been repaired/ replaced and is working correctly you can end up with 'more' pedal travel than before !

[Doctor Gollum]

Thanks for all the feedback, I shall stop my paranoia and just enjoy the superior engineering of my lovely MV6s.  Just need to fix the spongy brakes now...

 Fix the spongee Brakes,  don't rush, fit braided hoses.  Every Omega I've owned has had slightly soft pedal at the start, then was sufficient.. Only omega I've driven with a hard pedal was sereks with the brake conversion kit on, and that stopped bloody quick from 70mph

That's the direction I am heading in, braided hoses and a very careful bleeding process including the ABS pump, followed by bigger discs and calipers similar to the upgraded ones that we fit to Lotus Carltons

There's a limit to what will fit under factory wheels.

Monaro CV8 calipers with 330mm discs is about the limit for 17"s. And this actually makes the pedal softer. The effect is instant though as it pulls the car up noticeably faster with alot less fade.

It is possible to adjust the dead spot out of the pedal, but it's fiddly to do.