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[cam.in.head]

yes deadlocking was not working either.
trouble is .if yours is very intermittent it could be hard to trace. mine was more constant and included the warning buzzer sounding at a reduced volume when it shouldnt and if you operated the dashboard dimmer.
if you unplug the door connector when the fault is not there then it wont acheive anything and wont be traceable. plus,the connector is a bit of a fiddle to getback on !
i can only tell you what MY symptoms were and how i solved it ,yours may be different. if the warning buzzer is working totally correctly then it may not be the same fault.

(behind the drivers kickpanel there are a bunch of wires going upto the big door connector plug. with a meter on my blue wire there was a low resistance to earth ( with the door pin switch held in ) i have temporarily cut this wire and all is well.if you find this wire is low to earth and decide to cut it also then make sure you do it in a place you can rejoin it if necesarry.i havnt found anything that doesnt work since this wire was cut ? ?

[Darius]

Thanks.

i havnt found anything that doesnt work since this wire was cut ? ?

The problem is you won't find it till you need it and it isn't working.  Vauxhall wouldn't have put it there and connected it up unless it was needed. 

Could it prevent the alarm going off?  While I doubt it, in the worst case it could mess with the air bags or seat belt tensioners or the "unlock doors in an accident" ...

The infinite pleasure of intermittent faults and insufficient information to do a full diagnosis

[cam.in.head]

like i said. this was the issue on mine. will take door trim off and see where it goes soon anyway. it could be for an option that my spec doesnt have ?
just offering advice on how i solved mine. yours or others may be different.

[TheBoy]

Suffering the same issue, I was going to go out and have another look at mine today.  But was greeted with an unexpected paintwork problem, which probably means I'm tending towards the idea of simply not bothering, and scrapping it.

[VXL V6]

Suffering the same issue, I was going to go out and have another look at mine today.  But was greeted with an unexpected paintwork problem, which probably means I'm tending towards the idea of simply not bothering, and scrapping it.

My fix is to wait until summertime when all these problems will miraculously disappear then i'll bin it instead of re-MOT'ing it in November

[Darius]

like i said. this was the issue on mine. will take door trim off and see where it goes soon anyway. it could be for an option that my spec doesnt have ?
just offering advice on how i solved mine. yours or others may be different.

I have a VM Ware manual I bought on line for £10 or so.  It is a pig to use but I discovered this wiring for a 2002 Omega.  It has one blue wire going to 4 blue wires.  If any of the four blue wires go to ground it is the same as the driver's door switch closing to ground and bringing on the light.

I have an image at https://www.dropbox.com/s/1grjgnzqe57shmj/Car%20-%20door%20switch.png?dl=0 but cannot seem to upload it.

Does this work? 

[Darius]

I have done some more digging.  The top of the two bulbs is 12V. 



The bottom of the two bulbs goes to Pin 11 on the K37 Control Unit - Central locking which must pull them to ground.

[cam.in.head]

[/quote]
I have a VM Ware manual I bought on line for £10 or so.  It is a pig to use but I discovered this wiring for a 2002 Omega.  It has one blue wire going to 4 blue wires.  If any of the four blue wires go to ground it is the same as the driver's door switch closing to ground and bringing on the light.


exactly yes. and it doesnt necessarily need a full 12v to trigger it hence a damp ( low to earth) area will make it switch

[Darius]

The lamps pull out.  The bulb has a glass tab with the wires which push into the socket with the tab going side-to-side across the car. 

Oops.  The tab goes along the length of the car.

The problem has miraculously gone away so damp does seem to be my problem too.

[cam.in.head]

definately damp . mine has been in an oven recently and ive checked the wire. all totally clear now !

[gbh]

Right I'm checking again and changed the door switch no difference,then the interior light is staying on again but when i put main headlights on it goes out so then I moved the rotating dimmer and buzzing noise and interior light flashing all at the same time so looks light the main lighting switch has a fault so I need to remove/replace/swap off other car.How to remove would be the next question please but I will start checking for similar questions

[deviator]

The main light switch just pulls out. I wouldn't use the knob though, I'd gently pry it until I could get enough out to grab.

[gbh]

Used the credit card trick and that worked for removal and swap byt the problem is still there unfortunately.So the light stays on when main lights on it goes off but only with the dashboard dimmer to fully on otherwise it's on or flicking and the buzzing relay makes a noise but not as strong as when keys left in.There must be another relay to control all this and maybe that has a fault/damp etc

[gbh]

Back again swapped the 3 relays red/yellow/green made no difference but interestingly  with the door switch not screwed in I noticed that if I depressed the switch lightly i could here something clicking another relay or something else happened it I rubbed the switch wiring against the metal opening sometimes i heard the car running tone slightly an once it stopped the car.

[cam.in.head]

with the door switch not screwed in you are effectively removing an earth contact connection from two different places so i wouldnt read too much into it.
if changing the light switch and various relays did not make a difference then they are a result of the fault not the cause of it.
this is exactly the same as mine was so just trace it back and you should find it. my cure may not be your cure !