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[jacko]

Update, can of cataclean and a good run later
Now passes emissions with ease, however I am taking it to my local garage for them to do
A proper inspection of this area that meant to have corrosion, as yes is was the garage that failed it that quoted 100 for the welding, so I’m not convinced it even has a problem if you saw the car you would question it to, so if they don’t find corrosion it will be brake lines and re mot elsewhere 👍😊

[jacko]

Hi chaps update,

Is this the end,

Had an independent inspection and car has no rust, except
On the front chassis rails where the suspension and wish bones come together
Drivers side wasn’t an mot fail or advisory
But is on its way, now to be done properly how much will this cost any rough ideas
Any one on here into that depth of welding, and can the sub frame be lowered or is this an engine out job? 😢

[Doctor Gollum]

To your last question, both. Simply because you're getting into restoration territory.

The chassis leg is the lower 5" of what you can see. Anything above this is single skin inner wing... However both chassis legs have plumbing running along them and the passenger side also has a reasonable amount of wiring along it, so any work on the inner wing requires care.

My advice, as it has been confirmed as serviceable would be to thoroughly clean the area, rub it back, then with a decent primer, the a couple of top coats and finally once that's fully hardened, stone chip over the whole area. This can be done with the wheel arch liner and wheel removed, ideally the bumper as you can the access the whole chassis rail and the lower front cross member

There are areas that require particular attention, including the inside face of the chassis rails where the steering gear mounts and down beside the exhaust.

[Nick W]

Properly?


Engine and subframe out, remove all of the plumbing, wiring and other stuff in the way(ABS, battery etc). Then a lot of fiddly fabrication starts, because this area is made of a number of small, overlapping panels - it's not the capped U-shape that it first appears. And the same on the other side, no matter how good it looks. That is a lot of work, and is worth far more than the car.


Or, you can do some basic patching, like in my photos, to prolong the life of the car for a couple of years. If you're paying a garage to do this, you might spend less than another car.

[Nick W]

Also, there is no point in doing anything here until you've had a thorough and critical look at the rest of the car: remove the sill covers, check behind the bumpers and in the rear wheel arches, above the entire  rear subframe and anywhere the underseal or paint is damaged.


By look, I mean check with a blunt pokey tool like a knackered #2 screwdriver.

Include the exterior panels and paint - it's bound to have parking rash and other marks.

My estate didn't quite need the front chassis work, but it definitely needed rear wheelarches, both sills and other patches. Despite being able to do that work - I had actually bought a pair of sills - and the car being mechanically sorted, it was enough to end the car. I sold it for parts.