The alignment adjustment allows for a limited range of tolerance and does nothing to correct the position of the wheel relative to the axle centre line. If the right wheel is back from the original axle centre line then the car will pull that way when you add weight to the front end, ie under braking. An inspection brake test will rule out brake imbalance which is the road your mind is going down.
The following is belts and braces, but the critical point is that unde no circumstances do you take any measurements against a removable body panel.
If the wheel got hit then start with a detailed inspection and measurement of the front subframe mounting points. You'll need access to a four post lift and the tyre and tyre pressures must be identical to ensure an accurate height measurement.
Measuring the diagonals will confirm if the subframe is still square. Bolt to bolt.
Do the same with the chassis rails independently of the subframe measuring the length and height at both ends. The front where the reinforcement bar bolts on and where the rails end on the floorpan.
Do the same with the top mount centre to the rear bolt of the opposite bonnet hinge and opposite upper/outer headlight bolt.
Do the same with the diagonals from the end of the chassis rails where the reinforcement bar bolts to the opposite corner of the lower radiator support.
If any of these are out by more than a few mm then the chassis needs tweaking straight.
If these all match up, within a couple of mm, very carefully inspect the bolt heads on the subframe mounts to see if there's and witness marks from the subframe having moved during the impact.
If there are marks then the subframe was hit hard enough to move it. Reposition it.
Replace the wishbones, struts, and wheel bearing and the wheel if it doesn't run true when spun.
Then realign it.
You could skip to the replacing parts section, but if the right chassis leg or subframe are tweaked, then you're wasting your time.
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Topic: Pulling when braking (Read 1005 times)