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[Dusty]

Can anyone help. I have been in this house for 4 years and have yet to bleed the system of air.

Just tried the system to see if everything was ok for the winter. It works, but the radiators are full of air upstairs. There is only 1 inch of heat at the very bottom.

Trouble is the previous owner put radiators upstairs without any bleed valves.

Can anyone let me know how to bleed the system of air another way.

Or it will be a cold winter for Mr & Mrs Dusty

[Marks DTM Calib]

Radiators without bleed valves, are you sure!

There not those where they are fitted to the rear are they?

Key question would be, how is the inhibitor......and is it air or Hydrogen (many moons ago we would light the gas to see what it was as you bled the rads!)

[iggy21uk]

If they don't have bleed valves how did they fill them when first installed ??

Never seem one without, then again I'm not a plumber.

[Bob S]

Just read your message and there are a couple of questions I have to see if we can diagnose this problem.
1. Is the boiler a combi? (does hot water and heating from the same unit)
2. Is there a pressure gauge on the front control panel?
3. What is the pressure gauge reading when the system is cold.
4. Have you had any decoration work or alterations done that have had the radiators drained or removed for any reason?
If the answer to 4 is no it appears to me that your system is losing water some where.
If your boiler is a conventional wall mounted or back boiler type with a header tank (small tan approx16" x 12"x 14" tall) black and insulated or poss metal galvanised in the loft. Check that the ball valve has not stuck and the tank is empty. If this is the case move the valve up and down until the water flows and the system will start to fill with water. You can then vent the radiators don't run the pump when you do this it does not help.
The radiators will have vents on them if they are a rolled top metal they will have vents usually located on the inside face (facing the wall or other pannel if a double pannel) they are sometimes located behind a removable plastic cap.
Always remember to vent the system slowly I usually start at the bottom of the system and work up to the upper floor(s).
Try this and come back to me with your findings.

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Radiators without bleed valves, are you sure!

There not those where they are fitted to the rear are they?

Key question would be, how is the inhibitor......and is it air or Hydrogen (many moons ago we would light the gas to see what it was as you bled the rads!)

I agree, plumbing is one of my loved hobbies, and I have seen many radiators in my time but I have never seen ones without bleed valves!

As Mark states they could well be at the rear / in the middle of doubles.  

Systems must be bled when first filled and regularly thereafter, especially those at the top of the system so you always have bleed valves for that reason Dusty.  

[Dusty]

Thanks for all your replies.

The central heating system is not a combi, but the old fashioned type, with a header tank in the airing cupboard. The water seems to be flowing normally. The air inside the radiators has never been bled, not since we have owned the house, so that is over 4 years.

Because I'm not sure what you mean, I've photographed the radiators. This is a picture of one radiator, and it is typical of all the ones upstairs.







Here's hoping this can shed some light on it :-/

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Just as I suspected Dusty, on those particular radiators the bleed screws are recessed into the back of the top inside section either to the far left or right

[Dave-C]

Run your hand accross the rear surface of the upper part of the rad, it'll certainly have a recessed bleed screw..  the rest is just simple, assuming it's a single circuit system, bleed the the lower rads first, progress to upper rads next, go all around them again in the same order, make sure the tank has refilled, then fire it up for an hour, let it cool down for an hour or so and re-bleed....  

Pretty sure your winter will be a warm one

[Dusty]

Just as I suspected Dusty, on those particular radiators the bleed screws are recessed into the back of the top inside section either to the far left or right

Thanks  Lizzie.Yes I have found them about half an inch down from the top in the corner.

I can feel but not see them.They seem to be in a very awkward  position .Do you know what tool fits them ( spanner or screwdriver)

It would be much easier to do if they were on the front rather than the back of the rad.
Did'nt realise how dusty(pardon the pun) the rads are in the pictures........how embarrassing . :

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Just as I suspected Dusty, on those particular radiators the bleed screws are recessed into the back of the top inside section either to the far left or right

Thanks  Lizzie.Yes I have found them about half an inch down from the top in the corner.

I can feel but not see them.They seem to be in a very awkward  position .Do you know what tool fits them ( spanner or screwdriver)
It would be much easier to do if they were on the front rather than the back of the rad.
Did'nt realise how dusty(pardon the pun) the rads are in the pictures........how embarrassing . :

That's good Dusty!!

Neither of those tools are any good, you need a radiator key available in any good DIY store.

Ensure you do not undo the screw too far and have it come out as you can have water going everywhere whilst you try to find it and refit!!  Just in case though always keep towels available for mpoing up any spills.   In addition carryout the bleeding when the radiators are cold, as very quickly you can be trying to retighten the screw with very hot water burning your hands.

If you still have a header tank for your rad system, then double check the ballcock is free moving and allowing refil as if the system has not been refilled for at least four years as you state, the bullcock can become stuck in the closed position.

As already stated you require an inhibitor in your system, once more available from any good DIY, but I would always fully empty and flush the system out first before refilling with this mix as you would on a miggy!!

[RobG]

Pop into local DIY ask for "Radiator Bleed Key"

[RobG]

Beat me to it Lizzie

[Dusty]

Just as I suspected Dusty, on those particular radiators the bleed screws are recessed into the back of the top inside section either to the far left or right

Thanks  Lizzie.Yes I have found them about half an inch down from the top in the corner.

I can feel but not see them.They seem to be in a very awkward  position .Do you know what tool fits them ( spanner or screwdriver)
It would be much easier to do if they were on the front rather than the back of the rad.
Did'nt realise how dusty(pardon the pun) the rads are in the pictures........how embarrassing . :

That's good Dusty!!

Neither of those tools are any good, you need a radiator key available in any good DIY store.

[Dave-C]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2PCE-EASY-GRIP-SOLID-BRASS-RADIATOR-VALVE-BLEED-KEY-SET_W0QQitemZ380060996007QQihZ025QQcategoryZ303QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem?refid=store

Have a looky at this link

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Just as I suspected Dusty, on those particular radiators the bleed screws are recessed into the back of the top inside section either to the far left or right

Thanks  Lizzie.Yes I have found them about half an inch down from the top in the corner.

I can feel but not see them.They seem to be in a very awkward  position .Do you know what tool fits them ( spanner or screwdriver)
It would be much easier to do if they were on the front rather than the back of the rad.
Did'nt realise how dusty(pardon the pun) the rads are in the pictures........how embarrassing . :

That's good Dusty!!

Neither of those tools are any good, you need a radiator key available in any good DIY store.

Please note Dusty the edited version of my last post