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[Dusty]

Got it now .Thanks to Lizzie and every one else who has helped me.
Spanner or screwdriver.....you foolish woman Dusty....You can see that I would never make a plumber.

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Got it now .Thanks to Lizzie and every one else who has helped me.
Spanner or screwdriver.....you foolish woman Dusty....You can see that I would never make a plumber.

But you could learn Dusty and you are starting the process now .

I thought I couldn't 40 years ago, with electrics, plumbing, car mechanics and general building, but after some self training and advice from professions in each field, now I can!

All women, including yourself Dusty could do it; no prob  

[Marks DTM Calib]

Plumbing is a doddle, and very theraputic I find!

Those type are often supplied with a flat spanner to actuate the bleed valve.

[Debs.]

  Where are all the (usual) OOF-blokes with jokes about 'bleeding nipples' etc.  

[Dusty]

Where are all the (usual) OOF-blokes with jokes about 'bleeding nipples' etc.  

I was always aware of the possible double meanings Debs...so I picked my words very carefully.

[Bob S]

Hello again
Just looked at the photos especially the last one the valave appears to be passing water if other rads are the same this could be the cause of your water loss, though with the header tank working it should re-fill.
I'm not sure but the tank in the airing cupboard should be the tank for the hot water and not the central heating system (it should not run all the time only when drawing off hot water).
Is the system now full?
If the same header tank is the tank that also feed the hot water this will be the cause of the air and corrosion in the system whatever you do don't use inhibitor in this type of system because the two water mix and you will be bathing in central heating inhibitor.

[Dusty]

Hello again
Just looked at the photos especially the last one the valave appears to be passing water if other rads are the same this could be the cause of your water loss, though with the header tank working it should re-fill.
I'm not sure but the tank in the airing cupboard should be the tank for the hot water and not the central heating system (it should not run all the time only when drawing off hot water).
Is the system now full?
If the same header tank is the tank that also feed the hot water this will be the cause of the air and corrosion in the system whatever you do don't use inhibitor in this type of system because the two water mix and you will be bathing in central heating inhibitor.

Thanks for that. The header tank is separate from the tank feeding the hot water cylinder. We just had the ball joint replaced last year due to corrosion, so it is working ok.  

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Hello again
Just looked at the photos especially the last one the valave appears to be passing water if other rads are the same this could be the cause of your water loss, though with the header tank working it should re-fill.
I'm not sure but the tank in the airing cupboard should be the tank for the hot water and not the central heating system (it should not run all the time only when drawing off hot water).
Is the system now full?
If the same header tank is the tank that also feed the hot water this will be the cause of the air and corrosion in the system whatever you do don't use inhibitor in this type of system because the two water mix and you will be bathing in central heating inhibitor.

The hot water and central heating water supplies are two completely separate systems that go into and out of the same boiler unit Bob.

The two do not have any connection with each other, with separate cold supplies, tanks, and the CH system has its own header tank which I was referring to before.  This either is in the loft alongside the main cold water tank for the hot water system (If a non-direct system) or sited on top of the main hot water storage tank in say the airing cupboard or elsewhere.

There is absolutely no risk of the inhibitor ending up in your hot water Dusty. If it did it is either an illegal system or you have a leak from one system to another which is virtually impossible.

[MickAP]

Header/expansion tank for the central heating should be a smaller size than the main tank that feeds your hot water system. This is usually located in the roof space, or maybe airing cupboard.
As stated earlier bleed all of your radiators starting with the one furthest away then end with the one closest to the boiler, or highest.
Get your system up and running properly and satisfy yourself it's working properly, then put some inhibitor in the system. You will need to partially drain down to do this as it seems you have no way of introducing this via a radiator, need to put it in via the tank. Don't forget to isolate the water feedpipe to the tank first before you drain down.
It's not a bad idea to completly flush the system out while you at it to do a good job. To do it properly take each radiator off in turn and flush out with a hosepipe, it's suprising how much black sludge comes out of them.

Mick

[Bob S]

Lizzy
Just to put the record straight some old systems filled the heating system through the copper hot water cylinder. It was not illegal at the time though the result of this was that the heating system filled with air due to the exchange of water when expansion due to heat up of the heating system pushed water from the heating system into the domestic hot water and the reverse on cooling. If I recall the system was called a Primatic.

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Lizzy
Just to put the record straight some old systems filled the heating system through the copper hot water cylinder. It was not illegal at the time though the result of this was that the heating system filled with air due to the exchange of water when expansion due to heat up of the heating system pushed water from the heating system into the domestic hot water and the reverse on cooling. If I recall the system was called a Primatic.

Thanks Bob!

In all my years of plumbing never encountered one of those, so thanks that is very interesting. 8-) 8-) 8-)

I think anyone still with one would be best to replace it asap!  

[Bob S]

Totally agree though when Dusty said the water was flowing through the tank it had me concerned. This system was used in copper cylinders and the Elson tank type units (rectangular copper tank with hardboard cover the one with the single break tank inside). It worked on the principle of and bell type housing with the system feed pipe inside it it relied on air trapped in the top of the bell and water exchanged between the system and the domestic water.  British Gas excluded them from the star plan servicing because of the corrosion problems, hence when Dusty stated the rads were full of air?? One other thing don't know if you would agree flushing old systems can cause more harm than do good. Tend to treat each system on its merits and by the look of the rad valves a flush could dislodge the stuff thats preventing the valves leaking worse than they appear to be now.

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Totally agree though when Dusty said the water was flowing through the tank it had me concerned. This system was used in copper cylinders and the Elson tank type units (rectangular copper tank with hardboard cover the one with the single break tank inside). It worked on the principle of and bell type housing with the system feed pipe inside it it relied on air trapped in the top of the bell and water exchanged between the system and the domestic water.  British Gas excluded them from the star plan servicing because of the corrosion problems, hence when Dusty stated the rads were full of air?? One other thing don't know if you would agree flushing old systems can cause more harm than do good. Tend to treat each system on its merits and by the look of the rad valves a flush could dislodge the stuff thats preventing the valves leaking worse than they appear to be now.

Yes Bob that can be quite true, especially with the old cast iron rad systems and to a lesser extent the modern steel ones.

However I always believe in doing a proper job or not at all, so if one of those radiators has any rust spots showing through, especially on the seams, I would always replace it anyway, as I would with any old valves especially in hard water areas such as mine.  I would certainly recommend replacing Dusty's as they do appear to be showing their age by some leakage appearing.

Indeed in recent years I have ususally replaced the valves with thermastically controllable valves as I have found these ideal to control the climate in individual rooms.

[mars]

Pop into local DIY ask for "Radiator Bleed Key"

Bled ours about 2 years ago after having some work done. Just thinking now, where is the bleed key!
 :-/