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[markomega25]

Hi,

Apologies but this query is related to my Motorbike - not my Mega for a change, but it is about a DIY repair which might be of interest here.

I have stripped the thread of the Engine oil drain in the sump (it is 20 years old and was a weak spot on the Yam FJ1200 to start with - a steel sump bolt into alloy case!). I want to try a repair myself by putting in a thread insert such as a Helicoil. For a number of reasons I would like to try Helicoiling it in situ (not taking the sump off) but was worried about loosing the Tang on the end of the Helicoil when it is broken off. Never used a helicoil before and believe the way to break of the tang is to hit it with a special tool, but guess it is likely that the tang could end up inside the sump.

Doing a google I came across this American firm (see link below) who supply a Tangless thread insert which looks the business but I can't find anyone in the UK who sells them or the kits. Can anyone help, anyone know where I can get these?

http://www.katonet.com/Products2/tanglessinserts1.htm

Plenty of places including ebay to get the standard helicoils or Timeserts, but these tangless ones seemed right for the job.

Thanks

Mark

[Marks DTM Calib]

I have done quite a few helicoils.....I would not worry about teh tang in your case as the are easily removed.

A pair of snipe nose pliers will allow you to keep hold of it and snap it off.

Alternatively, just snap it and pour the old engine oil back through the engine to flush it out.

[Bandit127]

Done one or two myself and never had to break the tang by hitting it. Usually a twist in the reverse direction with the applicator gets it out in one go.

Your problem is much more likely to be getting rid of the swarf that drilling and tapping the hole for the insert will create. That will be small enough to be picked up and deposited in small oilways.

Hmmm, tricky. If you are going to do it without splitting the engine I would:
Drill, tap & helicoil.
Put the sump plug in.
Fill with old engine oil.
Remove sump plug and drain oil.
Sieve oil through a pair of very fine tights.
Repeat a few times.
Start the engine, the idea is that the filter can catch any bits left... maybe run for only 60 seconds.

New oil & filter.
25 mile run.
New oil & filter again.
JD


By filling the sump you get the best chance of picking the bits up...

[Martin_1962]

I had a stripped exhaust thread hole on my GP100

I made my own insert and did it off the bike

[Marks DTM Calib]

And grease the tap well....that way it picks up the swarf!

[markomega25]

Thanks for the quick replies.

So I will go for a standard helicoil then and see how it goes - I have some round nosed pliers but don't know if they are long enough until i try.

Thanks for the advice on flushing out and sieving. In my case the oil change I was doing when it all went wrong was using cheap 10/40 oil I happened to have for a quick flush out anyway so nothing lost there. So i guess I just have to pluck up enough courage to go and buy some tights, I guess fishnets won't do!

I have read that additional measures to minimise any swarf getting inside are to pack grease on the flutes of the drill bit and the tap and the grease should pick up some of the swarf. I have also got some pipe cleaners which I planned to smear lightly with grease and bend so that I could have a quick wipe round inside also.

Would it be a good idea to heat the oil up a bit in a pan so it flows better/quicker for flushing? Not too warm though so it does not cause any temperature shock damage this cold weather.

[markomega25]

Thanks Marks, you beat me to it, I must learn to type faster. Great advice though, cheers.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Just chuck the oil through....no need to heat it up.

Snipe nose pliers will do the job anyway.

Depending which helicoil kit you buy, you may find that you dont need a drillbit (some have a twin thread and taper setup so wind them selves in cutting and tapping in one operation)

[markomega25]

"you may find that you dont need a drillbit (some have a twin thread and taper setup so wind them selves in cutting and tapping in one operation)"

Thanks Marks,

I have seen those ones, but only for spark plug sized repairs so they would be M14, I think my plug is a M10 or M12, but will cruise fleabay and see what I can get.

Mark