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[amba]

Due to ongoing issue with our central heating system it has become necessary to resite the room thermostat from the landing due to a new radiator being sited close by.The existing system is a coventional baxi boiler and expansion tank..the temperature being controled by a room thermostat.I intend to replace the stat with a wireless unit Drayton RFS 1 ,but I am confused by the wiring on the backplate.
The existing dial unit has 3 wires...Blue-N   Brown-L  pin 3-Yellow/Green
The new unit has 5 connections...N  L   (1)-common   (2)-Heating satisfied or call for cooling  (3)- call for heating.The wiring detail supplied with the unit shows a switch between pin 1 and 2 and states volt free contacts.
My question is ..to what number pin  1/2/3 do I connect the yellow/green wire or do I need some extra wires ...sure it can,t be too difficult for someone in the know.

[johnnycboy]

Due to ongoing issue with our central heating system it has become necessary to resite the room thermostat from the landing due to a new radiator being sited close by.The existing system is a coventional baxi boiler and expansion tank..the temperature being controled by a room thermostat.I intend to replace the stat with a wireless unit Drayton RFS 1 ,but I am confused by the wiring on the backplate.
The existing dial unit has 3 wires...Blue-N   Brown-L  pin 3-Yellow/Green
The new unit has 5 connections...N  L   (1)-common   (2)-Heating satisfied or call for cooling  (3)- call for heating.The wiring detail supplied with the unit shows a switch between pin 1 and 2 and states volt free contacts.
My question is ..to what number pin  1/2/3 do I connect the yellow/green wire or do I need some extra wires ...sure it can,t be too difficult for someone in the know.

yellow/green wire would normally be earth, but i would presume who ever wired it originall didn't have any 3 core and earth and used the earth cable as a switched live.

try this, shows you the connections you require

http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.com/NR/rdonlyres/66ED73E9-7EA3-4D7B-9D52-F297A3255118/7443/D1210_RTS.pdf

hth

[amba]

Thanks Johnnycboy..the detail on the page is an exact diagram of what I have got at present..question relates to where I fit the wire that goes onto pin 3 onto the new Drayton RF1 Digistat back plate SCR..it has 5 possible connections..assume N and L are self explanatory just not sure about this 3rd wire

[amba]

Am sure you are correct that the Yellow/Green is a quick fix for not having 3 core and earth originaly so use T/E and used the earth with a wire cover..just unsure where on the new back plate to connect it ?

[johnnycboy]

Looking at diagram it will connect to pin 3.  you may need to check in the termination block where the yellow/green is connected, it should link into your motorised valve.  I'm trying my best to describe what i'm thinking lol . so bare with me

[amba]

Had a closer look at Drayton diagram and it shows pin1 as common.Would that be the switched feed and the other 2 connecters are not used as they seem to form the circuit when its switched .?so I connect the Yellow/Green wire to Common ??...I hate home wiring

[amba]

So looking at diagram no (2) it shows 3 pins...if my Yellow/Green wire goes to Motorised valve then I connect it to the pin no 3 on the back plate.

[johnnycboy]

are you looking at the diagram which came with the thermotat or the one i linked.  if looking at the latter connect it to pin 3.  this will complete the circuit for the heating

[Marks DTM Calib]

Well 1 and 3 are the contacts you will be using.

A standard twiddly stat also has a neutral connection to pwoer a small heating resistor to add a little hysterisis to the temp setting which is not required on digital stats.

I what numbers are the current wires connected to and what make of stat do you have?

[johnnycboy]

all i would suggest if you are not sure then dont do it maybe ask someone else to look at it for you .  

technically i can do it, but explaining it is a lot harder.  hopefully someone else will be along soon to give your advice.  

all the best johnny

edit: and then arrives Mark

[Lioned]

Sorry to interupt but is not your thermostat (drayton rf1) a 'wireless' transmitter and therefor battery powered.In which case you dont need any wires connected,the clever bit is the reciever at the other end ?

[amba]

Twiddly stat has only 3 pins(standard Drayton as supplied bt BG)...no 1has blue wire and is marked N ....  no 2 has brown wire and is marked L....only other terminal has the Yellow/Green wire connected to it,but as earlier advised by Johnny this is probably a switched wire as BG didn,t use correct cable.
The new unit I have is a Drayton Digistat RF wireless system  RF 1
this has a back plate of exactly the same size as existing.It has 5 screw block connecters No 1 is N ....No 2 is L......pins 3/4/5 are unmarked but according to instructions supplied SCR is marked as No 3 is Common...No 4 is Heating satisfied or cal  for cooling...No 5 is Call for Heating..hope that helps

[amba]

Lioned ..well spotted but I need to know the wiring that goes into the bit on the wall that replaces the original "twiddly" turn stat..its the wired in bit

[Lioned]

I think i get it now.You are actually putting the receiver where the old stat is,and the stat elsewhere due to your new radiator presumably turning it off too soon.
Stat as you know should be sited in an 'average' heat area.The 'receiver' you could site close to your 'wiring centre' if there is one.
As previuosly said you should have 3 core wires,but assuming green/yellow is used as switch line (be sure it is) then it will be terminal 3.

[Lioned]

I think you may also need to put a link between the live terminal and terminal 1,depending on your programmer.