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[PaulW]

I'm debating fitting some sort of switched feed for running some stuff (phone charger mainly), and duno where to begin.  Ideally I want something I can move over to another bike as-and-when I get one.

Now I did find this courtesy of google http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2186/621/ but can't find something similar in the UK, so guess its something I'll just need to make up...

So, idea (which I think might work)...

12v/30A Switched relay - http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=080.081
In-line Blade Fuse Holder - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=30444&doy=13m4&C=SO&U=strat15
Blade Fuse Box - something like this http://www.extremeautoaccessories.co.uk/products.php?section=4090
Handlebar mounted power socket - again, something like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400043158204

Connect pin 30 to battery positive (but have a 30A fuse between the relay and the battery positive connector)
Connect pin 87 on the relay to the fuse box
Connect pin 85 to a source of switched ignition (rear driving light for example)
Connect pin 86 to frame (earth/ground)

Then run 1 of the fused outputs to the accessory plug (5A should do for the accessory plug) and again, ground it to a suitable point on the frame.

Reckon its a viable way to get it done??

[TheBoy]

Dunno, mines a bit 'simple' with a fused (2A IIRC) 'Autocom' connector from battery to fairing.  From there, I plug in a flying lead from my tankbag that contains all my goodies - Autocom main module, PMR446 transceiver, mobile phone, iPaq for my tunes and for satnav, satnav receiver, all charging as well.  Then another flying lead to the helmet, which has stereo headphones and mic.

Tunnie has seen the mass of electronics carried around in my tankbag...

[PaulW]

Sort of thing I'm aiming for... As for the SatNav, is your iPaq on display in the tankbag (under the clear plastic cover) or do you just go via audio prompting??  As ideally I want to use my X1 for both tunes, GPS tracking and satnav aswell...

[TheBoy]

Dunno, mines a bit 'simple' with a fused (2A IIRC) 'Autocom' connector from battery to fairing.  From there, I plug in a flying lead from my tankbag that contains all my goodies - Autocom main module, PMR446 transceiver, mobile phone, iPaq for my tunes and for satnav, satnav receiver, all charging as well.  Then another flying lead to the helmet, which has stereo headphones and mic.

Tunnie has seen the mass of electronics carried around in my tankbag...

Actually, its not direct to battery, must be to a switched 12v, picked up from an existing distribution point under seat - no ign, no tunes

[Chris_H]

I detest cigarette-lighter sockets as they are nowhere near waterproof and the plugs can drop out very easily.  I'm not even sure that the design is very short-circuit proof as the plugs seem to fall apart quite readily too.

I believe Triumph and BMW use a socket that John Deere (yes, as in tractors) also supply but I haven't installed one on my bike yet.

[TheBoy]

I detest cigarette-lighter sockets as they are nowhere near waterproof and the plugs can drop out very easily.  I'm not even sure that the design is very short-circuit proof as the plugs seem to fall apart quite readily too.

I believe Triumph and BMW use a socket that John Deere (yes, as in tractors) also supply but I haven't installed one on my bike yet.

Hence I use the Autocom connector on the bike, but do have a ciggy socket in tankbag for those awkward chargers...

[PaulW]

I still need to look into the power connector then...  Had a quick look at the Autocom connector, not sure if its ok for what I need, but I'm sure I can adapt something...

Anyways, did a circuit design.



The flashing LED is just to act as a deterrent mainly incase some jobsworth decides to come round.  Feed for the switched ignition will come from the dyno, so if that fails while riding (and I lose charging ability in regards to the battery), it will illuminate the LED and cut all power to the accessories as a safety measure.

Reckon the circuit looks about right?  I've started to make it, but can easily change the layout of the wiring if anything is untoward...

[PaulW]

Well changed the fuse ratings, bit better now...



Still waiting on a Powerlet BMW/Triumph style socket, but I've installed the relay and other things.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evClfWEDhuc[/media]

Tested the switchover to make sure the aux outs get power when ignition is on, and it works as planned

[Kevin Wood]

Well changed the fuse ratings, bit better now...

Looks good to me.

I was going to say, It'll be limited by engine power to less than 30 amps.

Kevin

[TheBoy]

To be honest, there is very likely an ign 12v already, capable of just giving an amp of 2 for charging.

Be aware, the 12v on smaller bikes often isn't that clean...

[Kevin Wood]

To be honest, there is very likely an ign 12v already, capable of just giving an amp of 2 for charging.

Be aware, the 12v on smaller bikes often isn't that clean...

Good point. Or that well-regulated

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Is the flashing LED some sort of anti theft deterent?

[Marks DTM Calib]

I assume also that the Flashing LED is capable of tolerating 12V as there is no dropper resistor (some are only rated to 9V max so worth double checking)

[TheBoy]

I assume also that the Flashing LED is capable of tolerating 12V as there is no dropper resistor (some are only rated to 9V max so worth double checking)

12v across an old type LED, wait for it to turn purple, and if you're really lucky, you can blow the end of it off. Apparently

[CaptainZok]

I assume also that the Flashing LED is capable of tolerating 12V as there is no dropper resistor (some are only rated to 9V max so worth double checking)

12v across an old type LED, wait for it to turn purple, and if you're really lucky, you can blow the end of it off. Apparently

Better not let Tonygnome see this or he'll be "experimenting" again.