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Author Topic: buying an elite  (Read 1702 times)

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elite col

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buying an elite
« on: 24 May 2010, 17:44:58 »

hi finally found a 3.0l manual w-reg elite saloon

anyone got things i need to look out for?

thanks
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amba

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #1 on: 24 May 2010, 18:13:43 »

A readily available supply of Petrol !!Enjoy it though.
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feeutfo

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #2 on: 24 May 2010, 18:42:25 »

usual omega stuff plus
starter for 10
self levelling shocks working/condition/not leaking oil/not replaced with stock shocks.

Headllight field of vision errors, warning is obvious but the fix can be elusive it the suspension arm sensors for the hids are intact, arm sensors are £50 odd each last i looked. Heated seats top and bottom. Basickly just check everything works. Paper clip it too if the owner will let you.
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elite col

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #3 on: 24 May 2010, 21:43:33 »

would it be an issue if replaced with standard rear shocks?
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joshwyatt

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #4 on: 24 May 2010, 21:54:09 »

It's not an issue if replaced with standard shocks, that is if the fuse has been pulled to stop the pump. Many cheapskates have fitted the non self levelling shocks, to such an extent that every Elite I see...I test the rear suspension to check.
You also need to check the cembelt history, it MUST be changed every 40,000 miles or 4 years...whichever's sooner. So even if it's done 1000 miles in the last four years, it'll need to be done.
Take the expansion cap off after it's stood for a bit after a run and see what you can smell, hopefully not much.
Chris' suggestion of paperclipping is excellent advice, that will alert you to any stored codes.
I know many people describe their vehicles as 'excellent runners' where they're not at all. If a paper clip test reveals, for example, missfire codes that can be a good bargaining point.
Check the rear arches, I've never had an Omega with even a hint of rust there, but some facelifts do have a fair bit of rust...due to poor bodywork care.

feeutfo

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #5 on: 24 May 2010, 21:55:02 »

Quote
would it be an issue if replaced with standard rear shocks?

only because the self levelling wont work, should drive ok but the back tends to sag a little as self level springs are softer, esp when old, than stock springs.

Self levelling shocks are 150 a pair on trade club, 300 retail. Only GM do them.
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Lizzie_Zoom

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #6 on: 24 May 2010, 21:58:37 »

..........and check for oil dripping off the two hex bolts on the bell housing / rear of engine area.  That would indicate failed cam cover gaskets, a common V6 fault.  But it can be put right for about £70, with Trade Card, and your labour ;) ;)

The other point to make is that some Omega's can suffer from the big Vx disease.......rusting rear wheel arches ::) ::)
« Last Edit: 24 May 2010, 21:59:20 by Lizzie_Zoom »
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elite col

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #7 on: 26 May 2010, 20:35:22 »

thanks for help im picking it up on sat,is it easy to spot if rear suspension has been changed?
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omegod

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #8 on: 26 May 2010, 20:40:23 »

Have a look at the rear shocks, if they are self levellers you should see a thin plastic pipe coming out of each that points towards the front of the car, about half way up the shock iirc
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Happy to do Omega servicing etc around Merseyside,cruise activation, airbag lights sorted too...

PhilRich

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #9 on: 27 May 2010, 00:02:55 »

I hope you have a totally risk & problem free ownership of this wonderful motor car, but rest assured if you don't, you have a second to none backup resource to call upon! :y
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If it ain't broke keep fixing it 'til it is!

elite col

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Re: buying an elite
« Reply #10 on: 27 May 2010, 08:54:53 »

excellent guys,thanks again

il post pics up once i have it home
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