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[o-meg-a]

oh and fitted new middle and back box too.
Thats all i can do today.

[Gaffers]

Just been quoted £460 + VAT for MV6 (Sport) front and rear springs (No TC it seems?) 

[o-meg-a]

Just been quoted £460 + VAT for MV6 (Sport) front and rear springs (No TC it seems?) 

Thats a bit rich lol...
Seen an mv6 breaking on ebay?? lol

£20 for rear, £30 for front shock and spring.....

damn sight cheaper but might not last as long is all.

[Gaffers]

Just been quoted £460 + VAT for MV6 (Sport) front and rear springs (No TC it seems?) 

Thats a bit rich lol...
Seen an mv6 breaking on ebay?? lol

£20 for rear, £30 for front shock and spring.....

damn sight cheaper but might not last as long is all.

I have seen them and I must admit I am tempted with 2nd hand but I would rather new 

[mr carl]

i was just out under the car (in my work uniform  ) it looks fairly simple, let me know if i have got this right

rear -
take off road wheel
disconnect bottom of shocker
undo track arm and anti roll bar
brake pipes have a flexi hose so looks like this doesnt need messing with.

and the whole lot should drop down?...also it seems my car has two springs on each side of the rear..a spring inside the spring, what is this about?

now this is where i get a little confused, on the front if you detatch the shocker from the hub will it need re-adjusting (due to camber) when bolting it back up? if so would it be easier to just disconnect the shock and hub off the lower wishbone.....

by doing it this way it looks like it would be the long way around, having to take off the brake caliper, steering arm and the anti roll bar etc etc... but thn should get around the need to get it set back up.

[o-meg-a]

little bit more so than that...
You do of course have to drop the rear of the subframe down from behind the diff in order to get access, as well as the shocks and arb mounts.

Brake lines are fliexi,but need to be unclipped first.

then you need to have a jack under the diff when you lower it down slowly, till you have enough room to get springs out.

Not sure if you have to undo track arms or not tbh, I'm thinking no. I've forgotten what i've read.

Then reverse. It is in essence fairly simple.

as for the fronts,

I'll be replacing wishbones too tomorrow, so i'll be taking it all off anyway as that alone screws the geometry. But i'll take some rough measurements beforehand so it's at least driveable till i can get to WIM.

The bottom nuts will have to be undone on the shock yes, and this will release the camber adjustment BUT, for you, the socket method, as shown in the maintainence guides would be useful. As this would allow you to roughly, if not quite accurately replicate the camber settings you had before.
With the fitting of the lowering springs though, the old camber settings may be completely out anyway.

You will need to get the car up to WIM or another trusted centre to do a full geometry after fitting wishbones and springs, or in your case just springs.

For the sake of ease, just take the shock off when you do it. 

[mr carl]

so the diff has to be lowered also, damn i am starting to think it may be easier to get a garage to do this lol

whats "WIM"?

i know the front will be out with the new springs on, but at least both sides will be equal?

could i not just paint some tipex around the bolt heads on the front and then make sure the bolts end up in back in the same place, mind you i guess it will just be easier to just take messurements...?

[o-meg-a]

Erm, well its done according to this guide http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1170939305

Its not the diff itself, but the subframe that hold it all. dead simple, just 4 bolts, You let it down till you have enough room to get springs out, sounds more complicated than it is.
(ps, you also have to disconnect the ABS sensors from the diff too, just unplug em)

WIM is "wheels in motion", its a workshop in Chesham, which has extensive expertise in Omega Suspension setup and adjustment afterwards. they have their own figures and settings which work best for the omega, which are not on the computer which most places use.
OOF discount price was/is £60 but you have to go there. It's normally £119...so good price.
They will check Camber, castor, and toe, and adjust all 3 if needed.

you could just use tipex...but my point is that all that will do is replicate the camber settings of the original springs.So they will still be off.
But yes, do it so that it is at least drivable.

The "socket" method is best though.
find the correct size socket which fits between the shock and your wheel rim edge before you mess with anything. Make sure its the most snug one. this can then be used as a reference when adjusting it at refit. Works well.

You will need to get a full geometry done though....it's just the way it is with Omegas. they are fussy

[feeutfo]

Just been quoted £460 + VAT for MV6 (Sport) front and rear springs (No TC it seems?) 

Sure they are on Tc. Unless they have been removed.

If only TC web access was restored....

Who's that quote from?

[feeutfo]

so the diff has to be lowered also, damn i am starting to think it may be easier to get a garage to do this lol

whats "WIM"?

i know the front will be out with the new springs on, but at least both sides will be equal?

could i not just paint some tipex around the bolt heads on the front and then make sure the bolts end up in back in the same place, mind you i guess it will just be easier to just take messurements...?

Have a look through the guides and FAQ secretions.( bloody predictive text, obviously I mean "sections"  ) it's all there step by step. The indexs make finding stuff a lot easier.

Granted lowering the dif does sound drastic but it really isn't. It's essentially 4 bolts and undo the bottom shock mounts. All the rest is just making sure nothing gets stretched or damaged in the process. Easy, just follow the guide step by step. 

May need to lever the springs out at the end though.

[Gaffers]

Just been quoted £460 + VAT for MV6 (Sport) front and rear springs (No TC it seems?) 

Sure they are on Tc. Unless they have been removed.

If only TC web access was restored....

Who's that quote from?

This is from Drive 'What is TC' Aldershot 

I am sure Andy could do a better price

[mr carl]

so the diff has to be lowered also, damn i am starting to think it may be easier to get a garage to do this lol

whats "WIM"?

i know the front will be out with the new springs on, but at least both sides will be equal?

could i not just paint some tipex around the bolt heads on the front and then make sure the bolts end up in back in the same place, mind you i guess it will just be easier to just take messurements...?

Have a look through the guides and FAQ secretions.( bloody predictive text, obviously I mean "sections"  ) it's all there step by step. The indexs make finding stuff a lot easier.

Granted lowering the dif does sound drastic but it really isn't. It's essentially 4 bolts and undo the bottom shock mounts. All the rest is just making sure nothing gets stretched or damaged in the process. Easy, just follow the guide step by step. 

May need to lever the springs out at the end though.

so , why does my car have a spring inside the spring...do you know?

so do these diff bolts just need to be slackened off, or do you need to take them out fully. as i was reading the mount has to be put back in exactly the same place or i will mess sh!t up 

[feeutfo]

so the diff has to be lowered also, damn i am starting to think it may be easier to get a garage to do this lol

whats "WIM"?

i know the front will be out with the new springs on, but at least both sides will be equal?

could i not just paint some tipex around the bolt heads on the front and then make sure the bolts end up in back in the same place, mind you i guess it will just be easier to just take messurements...?

Have a look through the guides and FAQ secretions.( bloody predictive text, obviously I mean "sections"  ) it's all there step by step. The indexs make finding stuff a lot easier.

Granted lowering the dif does sound drastic but it really isn't. It's essentially 4 bolts and undo the bottom shock mounts. All the rest is just making sure nothing gets stretched or damaged in the process. Easy, just follow the guide step by step. 

May need to lever the springs out at the end though.

so , why does my car have a spring inside the spring...do you know?

so do these diff bolts just need to be slackened off, or do you need to take them out fully. as i was reading the mount has to be put back in exactly the same place or i will mess sh!t up 

Just follow the guide, you'll be fine.

Spring assisters for carrying extra load. Just lever the buggers out with a bar, " AV' IT " style. Also helps to have someone stand on the hub whole you pull them out. If really stubborn unhook the exhaust if not too rusty.

[mr carl]

brilliant, thankyou. 

[o-meg-a]

Right then,

finally got all the work I've been meaning to do to the Omega done in a day and a half.
I went to this place http://www.draigbusiness.co.uk/bookara/
I ended up using the ramp for 4 hours the first day to do the rear subframe bushes and fit a new exhaust.
And then 8 hours the next day to do front wishbones, and fit new lowering springs on all four corners.

ended up getting charged for only 11 hours, and had help the whole time AND at only £10 an hour AND, £2 of that per hour is going to Macmillan Cancer Charity....
So I dont feel bad at all.

It took me soooo damn long because everything (nuts and bolts etc) was rusted to hell and needed cracking with a breaker bar. As well as then being undone with said bar.

everything ended up being a 2 man job (thankfully the people helped me out pretty much the whole day for FREE! lol)

But it's all done now.

Essentially, all jobs were fairly easy with access to the correct equipment.
for instance, to do the rear springs, I had the car up on the 2 post jack, wheels off, all bolts undone, and used a tall gearbox jack to lower the subframe gently.
All went reasonably swimmingly.

Only pita on the back end suspension was getting them damn subframe bushes out, and for fitting the springs, disconnecting the shock bottoms turned out to need amazing amounts of brute force. A very big lump hammer and some big swings.

car looks good, handles just fine, not harsh or crashy at all and even the camber is better than it was before. It is just set to as far out as it would come, what with the lowering, and that seems ok for now.
I do have pictures, but they are not the best, was i a rush to get to work once i'd finished.

Before:

The place

duff rear bush on wishbone:

Duff front ones (big tear both sides)

The free help

Spring swap over

New wishbone and spring fitted (excuse the state of the shock)

The result

Closer view

35mm reduced arch gap exactly

and from the rear