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[Martin_1962]

Correct, no extra wiring required. The 'startup' is a very 'soft' start and as you say, although it draws extra current initially, it draws approx 1/3rd during normal running (I think that's correct).

Any extra current draw is not a problem because as you know, you would start the engine first then switch on the lights with the engine running, not a problem. They also work with the engine switched off.

If you want to PM me your email address, I will gladly forward some photographs of the work and installation process. Also shows how simple the wiring is. EASY!

I had the same reservations as you but having done it, tis the only way!  

Write it up and get it posted to Maintenance Guides

[cem_devecioglu]

Night update!!

Lights awesome!!!  super!!.

Today couldnt resist any more..Bought the kit (from the main seller) and run to the electrician.. (although was simple)

Assembled ..(no screws , used silicone to stick ballasts-but hardly found the place for them away from water)

Contradictory the electrician was more scared than me and connected ballasts to the battery direcly..Philips set has original cables for direct battery connection.I didnt say a word to the man to see what happened.Lights are Ok.Also changed the far - long distance lights with stronger ones.Thay also work super.

Now what is left is (that I predict) the message "front lights" because actually is nothing there..Tomorrow I'll try with tech 2 to switch off ECU front light check..if not successfull have another alternative..(anyway now experimenting phase)

6000 K when heated is crystal white and very little blue..

2 years guarantee for ballasts and bulbs..

sorry for bad language..

[davlad22]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tut tut tut! Some people never listen!   If you had used the original lighting feed like the instructions with mine, you would not get a 'check control' message because there is still a load across the circuit which the ECU senses! Now you've gone and fubar'd it!

Silicone to stick ballasts   There's a perfectly made panel either side of the radiator!  

Write it up and get it posted to Maintenance Guides

Ah, well i've got all the photos read but upon entering the maintainence guide section it appears I am not allowed to 'start a new topic'.  :-?

I'm guessing it's because I am not a seasoned stalwart yet, like yourself   So access rights permit me from writing the 'How 2'. Maybe The Boy can help out by granting a special wish!?!   When possible, I will slap it up as soon as. Looks like you need some as well Mart!

[TheBoy]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tut tut tut! Some people never listen!   If you had used the original lighting feed like the instructions with mine, you would not get a 'check control' message because there is still a load across the circuit which the ECU senses! Now you've gone and fubar'd it!

Silicone to stick ballasts   There's a perfectly made panel either side of the radiator!  

Write it up and get it posted to Maintenance Guides

Ah, well i've got all the photos read but upon entering the maintainence guide section it appears I am not allowed to 'start a new topic'.  :-?

I'm guessing it's because I am not a seasoned stalwart yet, like yourself   So access rights permit me from writing the 'How 2'. Maybe The Boy can help out by granting a special wish!?!   When possible, I will slap it up as soon as. Looks like you need some as well Mart!

Nobody is allowed to post directly to Maint Guides, as there are a couple of things an Admin has to do first.

Post it up in Test section, then PM me or other mod/admin, and we'll move.

Please include a disclaimer at top about possible legality issues in UK, and also warnings about the high voltage.

[fatboy]

hi all i sell these kits and i have had a set on my omega for about a year philips r cheap but you need 6000 not 4500 the 4500 are ok but not that diverent  

[Paul M]

hi all i sell these kits and i have had a set on my omega for about a year philips r cheap but you need 6000 not 4500 the 4500 are ok but not that diverent  

4300K are factory HIDs, and actually have a higher lumen output than 6000K, 8000K, whatever. Yes 6000K have a blue tinge (although the light you see on the road is still pretty close to white) so may be considered to look nicer, but they don't perform better than 4300K. Depends what you're after, there isn't much difference between them though IMO and I've driven cars with both.

Definitely don't go higher than 6000K though or you're into boy racer territory sacrificing light performance for some mythical holy grail of blue/purple light

[davlad22]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Good advice  

Some people sell 5000k which I expect would be a great compromise but a little more difficult to get hold of.

I fitted aftermarket 6000k which everyone says look really smart but I still think a little too blue. Comparing to our factory spec elite, the elite is definately much whiter and a little brighter. Your call  

Sure fatboy knows the perfomance difference between any HID and halogen are like chalk and cheese  8-)

[cem_devecioglu]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tut tut tut! Some people never listen!   If you had used the original lighting feed like the instructions with mine, you would not get a 'check control' message because there is still a load across the circuit which the ECU senses! Now you've gone and fubar'd it!

Silicone to stick ballasts   There's a perfectly made panel either side of the radiator!  

Write it up and get it posted to Maintenance Guides

Ah, well i've got all the photos read but upon entering the maintainence guide section it appears I am not allowed to 'start a new topic'.  :-?

I'm guessing it's because I am not a seasoned stalwart yet, like yourself   So access rights permit me from writing the 'How 2'. Maybe The Boy can help out by granting a special wish!?!   When possible, I will slap it up as soon as. Looks like you need some as well Mart!

Sorry for not listening you...

The equipment is under the guarantee of the firm and their electrician..If I do it myself they tell they!'ll  cancel their guarantee.

Now experiment part 2..

Give up for for the 1 st connection style..

Now second style :Use directly from headlight sockets..But interestingly eletrician include one 4700 mF capacitor in paralel to the ballasts ..To shut the mouth for the meggy...no message now..But this ended up with 15 amp fuse per each channel..Now my idea is to connect one 5 ohm resistance serial to capacitor for lowering the current at start up for getting original 10 amp fuses...As the capacitor resistance is theoritically 0 without charge and infinite at full charge...I think resistance will help...

But still dont understand why they insist on capacitor..(explanation is if the car gives message they use it in every car with normal headlight usage)