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[The Barge Captain]

 :-[Please somebody help me
I've no multirams working at all on my 97 2.5. The diaphrams are ok (done suck test). Ive read MarkDTM's FAQ on the subject but still no wiser. Looking at the wiring diagrams i'm assuming K34 (relay injectors) is working ok or the thing wouldn't run. This seems to be the feed to the two solenoids as well as the fuel tank vent valve.
What is the black roundish box thing in front of the engine with the vacuum hoses feeding into it?

I'm getting error codes 59 (inlet valve 1 voltage low) and 73 (air flow sensor). I'm wondering if code 73 is being caused by the multiram not working properly

[TheBoy]

That error means the rear multiram isn't working electrically (eg, unplugged).

I assume the electrical plug is in.

You can test if its the solenoid of the wiring by swapping the solenoid with front...

AFM errors often pop up if there are other errors...

[nigsey1600e]

I shall be whatching this thrtead with interest as i have made a few posts about my multi rams not working either i have also do the suck tests and found both diaphrams ok.

the black box at the front of the engine is one of the two vacum reservoirs the should be behind the pollen fillter under the scuttle.
 
i dont i think i can flash any fault codes out on mine as it being a facelift,  i have ran out of ideas on mine so i might have to take mine to a vx specialist not a dealership i dont need a new ECU

[The Barge Captain]

ok, so if the rear multiram is unplugged/faulty, will that inhibit the front one from working?and do the two reservoirs derive their vacuum from the t off by the brake servo?

[TheBoy]

The two multirams are independent. Both driven from the vaccum system connected to the vac pipe from plenum to brake servo...

[Marks DTM Calib]

I shall be whatching this thrtead with interest as i have made a few posts about my multi rams not working either i have also do the suck tests and found both diaphrams ok.

the black box at the front of the engine is one of the two vacum reservoirs the should be behind the pollen fillter under the scuttle.
 
i dont i think i can flash any fault codes out on mine as it being a facelift,  i have ran out of ideas on mine so i might have to take mine to a vx specialist not a dealership i dont need a new ECU

Or drive it up the A46 and I will have a look at it.....

[nigsey1600e]

I shall be whatching this thrtead with interest as i have made a few posts about my multi rams not working either i have also do the suck tests and found both diaphrams ok.

the black box at the front of the engine is one of the two vacum reservoirs the should be behind the pollen fillter under the scuttle.
 
i dont i think i can flash any fault codes out on mine as it being a facelift,  i have ran out of ideas on mine so i might have to take mine to a vx specialist not a dealership i dont need a new ECU

Or drive it up the A46 and I will have a look at it.....

cheers for the offer mark that would be a great help as i have ran out of ideas on how to sort this out might even be working for all i know but i deffinatly can not get either ram to move via hand throttle when, where, and what time would you want me round  

[The Barge Captain]

OK, bit of an update.  The plug to the rear multiram was disconected however, putting this back on didn't help. As stated before, the diaphram is ok, and the solenoid has a coil resistance of 40 ohms which would seem about right and when bench tested switches ok. There is vacuum going to the solenoid.

However, there is permanently 12volts being fed to the solenoid no mater what the engine is reving at.  So the fault must lie elsewhere.
By the way, the front multiram valve is working ok - probably wasn't reving it high enough to get it to work before.

[Phil]

OK, bit of an update.  The plug to the rear multiram was disconected however, putting this back on didn't help. As stated before, the diaphram is ok, and the solenoid has a coil resistance of 40 ohms which would seem about right and when bench tested switches ok. There is vacuum going to the solenoid.

However, there is permanently 12volts being fed to the solenoid no mater what the engine is reving at.  So the fault must lie elsewhere.
By the way, the front multiram valve is working ok - probably wasn't reving it high enough to get it to work before.

I managed to get my rear one working sunday, the front one always worked at high revs, the back didnt.

If you look at the front solenoid there is a pipe from the vacum tank to the solenoid then a 'T' piece that goes to both multi rams.

This 'T' needs to be in the TOP of the front one not the side. If it goes in the side the front works the but the rear doesnt.

It only takes a very light blip of the throttle to get the rear one working  

[nigsey1600e]

i dont supose could could post a few pics of your mulitram pipe work so i could compare it to mine would be a great help

[Phil]

i dont supose could could post a few pics of your mulitram pipe work so i could compare it to mine would be a great help

This is a pic of the front solenoid:-



The black pipe to the 'T' comes from the vac tank, to the top of the solenoid then off th the back of the back solenoid.

The white tube comes out the side to the front multi ram valve

The other thin black tube comes from the rear of the engine in to the front vac tank.

HTH

[The Barge Captain]

Checked the plumbing - all ok so what next?

[Sir_Mixalot]

Just went and checked mine on suspicion of not working - can't see any action.  Stood and revved the engine hard up to the limiter and no movement on either multiram valve.  Even took off the vaccum hose leading to each of them and revved it and felt no suction either at idle or at high revs.  I am sure they are wired correctly and i know there is negative pressure since everything else works fine (brakes, cabin heater controls, ...).  Posted up some quick pics, they seem to match the ones from Phil - am at a total loss.

       

I tried to fashion a clip out of toilet paper and sellotape to leave on the multiram valves to see if they open and close when driving around (i.e. under load), but didn't have much luck - anyone else tried anything like this?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Interstingly, the feed and output to the vac tank on yours appears to be the wrong way round(difficult to tell exactly from the pics)

The feed from the rear of the engine should go into the right hand connector on the vac tank as this has a one way valve on it.

[The Barge Captain]

My problem appears to be that the solenoid is not being switched electrically. Using a multimeter across the plug, there is 12 volts across the pins at all times. Now this could be that the connection back to the ECU is being permanantly grounded, or there is an ECU fault, but no management light on at present