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Author Topic: Handbrake lever travel  (Read 4966 times)

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The Barge Captain

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #15 on: 06 October 2006, 08:42:22 »

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Hi guys

What's the normal handbrake travel on your Omegas? Mine seems to be way too high, about 6 or 7 clicks ...........
Just a couple of clicks on mine - [size=14]N[/size] [size=14]R[/size] then [size=14]P[/size]!  ::)
;D ;D
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Andy B

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #16 on: 06 October 2006, 08:43:17 »

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......
LMAO.... the american way! That'll be why someone nearly rolled into me every time we had to stop on one of san francisco's many mammoth hills, slush tronic or not it's gonna roll back unless you use the handbrake :D

......
:-?  :-? Why? Two pedals & two feet!! One for the 'go' pedal & t'other for the 'stop' pedal, my auto's don't roll back on hills.  ;)
Another plus point for auto's  ::)
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egcc

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #17 on: 06 October 2006, 21:15:45 »

Mine does 4 clicks  at three the car is going nowhere.
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Doughboy

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #18 on: 06 October 2006, 22:13:45 »

Mine does all the clicks by the feel of it!!!  :-? And it feels like it only catches the near side fully.  :-/

Any handbrake party's coming up?  ;D ;D ;D
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Paul M

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #19 on: 07 October 2006, 00:55:52 »

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......
LMAO.... the american way! That'll be why someone nearly rolled into me every time we had to stop on one of san francisco's many mammoth hills, slush tronic or not it's gonna roll back unless you use the handbrake :D

......
:-?  :-? Why? Two pedals & two feet!! One for the 'go' pedal & t'other for the 'stop' pedal, my auto's don't roll back on hills.  ;)

Heel-toe on a manual, pre-requisite being that you can drive properly ;). Unfortunately it's not so easy on the Omega due to the crappy layout of the pedal box, by comparison my 840 is way better, although the Subaru I had before was better again.

Last I heard your average american only knows how to use one of each limb at a time when driving, hence why real cars with things like a clutch and a gearstick have them trembling in fear  ;D I guess that probably applies to your average geriatric in the UK too :o

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Another plus point for auto's  ::)

Another? I'm still waiting to hear the first... well I guess you could plumb the transmission fluid into the heater matrix to heat the car when the HBV inevitably fails, might as well do something with all that energy being gobbled up by the torque converter!
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EddieX

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #20 on: 07 October 2006, 12:19:15 »

For realy advanced drivers, try this:  Right foot on brake, in first gear let clutch up until the rev. counter drops 50 rpm, right foot onto throttle and feed the clutch in. It works on the moderate hills we get round here. Don't try this on a carburettored car, it needs an ICV to prevent stalling.

Eddie.
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Andy B

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #21 on: 07 October 2006, 17:45:03 »

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For realy advanced drivers, try this:  Right foot on brake, in first gear let clutch up until the rev. counter drops 50 rpm, right foot onto throttle and feed the clutch in. It works on the moderate hills we get round here. Don't try this on a carburettored car, it needs an ICV to prevent stalling.

Eddie.
:-? That's how I used to do hill starts before I saw the light of only 2 pedals. As for fuel injection only, it depends how good you are I suppose, but my Manta was from the days before an ICV had been heard of.
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Martin_1962

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #22 on: 07 October 2006, 20:19:20 »

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Another plus point for auto's  ::)

Another? I'm still waiting to hear the first... well I guess you could plumb the transmission fluid into the heater matrix to heat the car when the HBV inevitably fails, might as well do something with all that energy being gobbled up by the torque converter!

How about not needing a clutch replacement!
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EddieX

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #23 on: 07 October 2006, 20:47:45 »

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For realy advanced drivers, try this:  Right foot on brake, in first gear let clutch up until the rev. counter drops 50 rpm, right foot onto throttle and feed the clutch in. It works on the moderate hills we get round here. Don't try this on a carburettored car, it needs an ICV to prevent stalling.

Eddie.
:-? That's how I used to do hill starts before I saw the light of only 2 pedals. As for fuel injection only, it depends how good you are I suppose, but my Manta was from the days before an ICV had been heard of.

You must have had an 1800 LET one like mine was..... until the Cavalier SRI 130 engine went in  :) :) :)  That was when I learned the hill start trick.

Eddie.
« Last Edit: 07 October 2006, 20:53:40 by EddieX »
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Andy B

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #24 on: 08 October 2006, 14:28:21 »

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You must have had an 1800 LET one like mine was..... until the Cavalier SRI 130 engine went in  :) :) :)  That was when I learned the hill start trick.

Eddie.

Older than that. I had a 2.0 CIH which replaced a 1.9 CIH Cavalier Coupe, both just basic lumps.
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Paul M

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #25 on: 08 October 2006, 17:26:47 »

Quote
For realy advanced drivers, try this:  Right foot on brake, in first gear let clutch up until the rev. counter drops 50 rpm, right foot onto throttle and feed the clutch in. It works on the moderate hills we get round here. Don't try this on a carburettored car, it needs an ICV to prevent stalling.

Eddie.

I do this a lot too, depends on the car really as some engines don't like it at all. My old audi could sit on quite steep hills using just the clutch, and that was with the ICV disconnected - it sometimes used to jam open causing the engine to race, so I applied a voltage to move it to the point where it idles fine under full load then disconnected it - saved spending £80 at the stealer for a new one :D
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Paul M

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #26 on: 08 October 2006, 17:29:08 »

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Another plus point for auto's  ::)

Another? I'm still waiting to hear the first... well I guess you could plumb the transmission fluid into the heater matrix to heat the car when the HBV inevitably fails, might as well do something with all that energy being gobbled up by the torque converter!

How about not needing a clutch replacement!

Rather a clutch than a gearbox. I've never before required a clutch replacement, although they're a service item they last a very long time unless abused by someone who doesn't know how to drive (probably been driving slushies too long :D). Manual gearboxes generally don't ever break unless abused or poorly designed in the first place - they almost always outlast the engine, which is more than can be said for your average chocolate box ;)
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Martin_1962

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Re: Handbrake lever travel
« Reply #27 on: 09 October 2006, 09:24:18 »

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Quote
Quote
Another plus point for auto's  ::)

Another? I'm still waiting to hear the first... well I guess you could plumb the transmission fluid into the heater matrix to heat the car when the HBV inevitably fails, might as well do something with all that energy being gobbled up by the torque converter!

How about not needing a clutch replacement!

Rather a clutch than a gearbox. I've never before required a clutch replacement, although they're a service item they last a very long time unless abused by someone who doesn't know how to drive (probably been driving slushies too long :D). Manual gearboxes generally don't ever break unless abused or poorly designed in the first place - they almost always outlast the engine, which is more than can be said for your average chocolate box ;)

Well with manuals

Sunbeam - went through two - used to blow them up ended up taking the first blown up one to a reconditioners for new syncros and bearings.

(Scrap yard boxes with around 40% more power than standard)

Carlton - recond box after a year, that had a knackered 3rd when I PXed it, should have got a NEW box for £250 however.

First Omega OK

Second Omega (auto) selector switch went
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