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[Piper701]

Hi all,
After a 30 mile run my 3.0 Elite would not restart after a brief stop, no EML warning or anything, just wouldn't start. No spark at plugs at all. Had it recovered and the garage replaced the crank amd cam sensors, it started OK but cut out on their test drive. It started  OK  again after 10 mins and they got it back to the garage. Investigations with their Tech 2 and TIS2000 diagnostics shows all withinn spec but some irregular patterns on the graph like output...  for the rest of the day they've had it, it has not cut out again but it is running not as smooth as it should do.... The next plan is to check the mapping on my ECU against that of another one.......     anyone got any further ideas?

[Marks DTM Calib]

First of all, we need the fault codes, these can be read yourself without the use of any fancy kit.....

I am concerned as the garage for me, are already following the 'willy nilly' component swap approach to fixing it which only adds more unknowns to the equation as new sensors are at the end of the day, unproven. The process so far does not sudgest a good understanding of fault finding...

I would say crank sensor given the symptoms.....and I would be trying another oen from stock having looked carefuly at the liv data and stored codes as its not unknown for new ones to be faulty....

[Piper701]

Thanks for the feedback. I believe there were some codes originally which indicated the crank sensor should be changed. But there are no codes now......
I also advised the auto electrician at the garage that both times it played up on me ( it did restart one time) the Traffic Master subscription remider message blurted out! and wondered whether this was significant? He said it could be as it is programmed to come in when there is a dip in voltage, so one of his next tests next week is to fully check the battery over as one cell could be down? He says he has gone through the car and checked all earths as well.
What is really puzzling him now is why is it running with ups and downs and gaps in the graphical representation down loaded from the TIS2000 kit? Belive this is why he wants to check the ECU against another??
Luckily I still have another car to get around in... am due to go to the West country next w/e and need a car I can trust, so I hope a 'solid' fault is eventually found!!!!  

[Piper701]

Eventually found out that  the diagnostic work on the Tech2 and TIS2000 was done with the original crank sensor put back in having been 'cleaned'! Also been charged 4 hrs labour for this diagnostic work which turns out to have been done with the original sensor still on the car! Will explain tomorrow to the garage my annoyance at this.
Subsequently have been advised by the garage that the issue was caused by a small gearbox leak contaminating the sensor?  Does this sound possible?  Have also been told there is a 'rubber bung' missing where this oil is coming from and that a back plate needs reseating, to do this the gearbox will have to come out?
It still doesn't feel as if it's running as smooth as it should.
Anybody else experienced this?

[cdx25]

Hi all,
After a 30 mile run my 3.0 Elite would not restart after a brief stop, no EML warning or anything, just wouldn't start. No spark at plugs at all. .. It started  OK  again after 10 mins and they got it back to the garage.

Did you get this fixed?  This was exactly the symptoms I had when I needed a new crank sensor.  It would run absolutely fine when it was running, but I had occasional starting problems - wouldnt start and then would fire up fine 10 mins later.  A new crank sensor fixed the problem fine, and now the car starts reliably first time every time (so far!) and fires up straight off the key.  

Advice on this forum suggests that the wiring gets too close to hot bits (mine was touching the exhaust!) and degrades.  I reinstalled the new wire well away from the heat sources.  Hope this helps.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Eventually found out that  the diagnostic work on the Tech2 and TIS2000 was done with the original crank sensor put back in having been 'cleaned'! Also been charged 4 hrs labour for this diagnostic work which turns out to have been done with the original sensor still on the car! Will explain tomorrow to the garage my annoyance at this.
Subsequently have been advised by the garage that the issue was caused by a small gearbox leak contaminating the sensor?  Does this sound possible?  Have also been told there is a 'rubber bung' missing where this oil is coming from and that a back plate needs reseating, to do this the gearbox will have to come out?
It still doesn't feel as if it's running as smooth as it should.
Anybody else experienced this?

That is a disgrace.....

a) They should have fitted a new sensor......cleaning does nothing as its the wires taht break down due to the heat of the exhaust and oil cooler pipes...plus it only takes 20 mins to fit...

b) The gearbox cant get oil on the crank sensor, its no where near it....and any way...it wont be oil causing the fault as its all hermeticaly sealed...

The bung I suspect they talk of can be fitted in 2 mins from below the engine....

I suspect tht any oil aroudn the crank sensor area is more likely to be from leaking cam cover gaskets.....